my oil did WHAT !!!
- Thread starter V.R.D
- Start date
Rapid Transit
Just A Traveler In Time
Looks like a good, reliable video.
Decreasing friction is usually a good thing.
(Except when the woman says "more friction" in that special way).
Most people think engine preservation more than wanting an extra 5 horse power.
Long wind(age tray) post to follow.
Here are things I've gleaned (learned?) that are also good, general principles in the Great Oil Debate.
1. An oil analysis expert told us to run as low a weight range oil as possible. Other wise you have more additives and less oil in your application.
2. Synthetic oil has a smaller molecule and if your engine leaks it will leak worse with synthetic just because.
3. I've run Mobile for 25 years in my stock flat tappet, engines. (I guess if you have radical lift flat cam, your results may be different.)
A Mobile oil rep told us: "Synthetic oil never wears out. If it didn't get dirty, you would never have to change it . But we make money selling oil".
(Mobile synthetic was the first )
In later years I've started adding STP with "zinc" just because but I don't think it's necessary with synthetic oil.
What I'm more interested in high millage engines is increased clearances and STP is a "viscosity indices increaser" (Sort of contradicts Number 1)
4. Diesel oil (Rotella) is thought to be a substitute in gas engines to get the zinc content.
However, diesel oil is formulated to have more detergents to maintain suspension of contaminates since diesel engines are more dirty.
This is not needed in gas engines and is counter productive.
5. Racing oils have little or no detergent since they are meant to be changed more often. (number 4).
6. "High Millage" oils supposedly have additives to "condition" your worn out seals. That's the difference.
7. Motor oil is a black art and a good synthetic oil formulated for your application is your best bet.
But black oil is generally not a good thing. Unless you are Jed Clampett.
Decreasing friction is usually a good thing.
(Except when the woman says "more friction" in that special way).
Most people think engine preservation more than wanting an extra 5 horse power.
Long wind(age tray) post to follow.
Here are things I've gleaned (learned?) that are also good, general principles in the Great Oil Debate.
1. An oil analysis expert told us to run as low a weight range oil as possible. Other wise you have more additives and less oil in your application.
2. Synthetic oil has a smaller molecule and if your engine leaks it will leak worse with synthetic just because.
3. I've run Mobile for 25 years in my stock flat tappet, engines. (I guess if you have radical lift flat cam, your results may be different.)
A Mobile oil rep told us: "Synthetic oil never wears out. If it didn't get dirty, you would never have to change it . But we make money selling oil".
(Mobile synthetic was the first )
In later years I've started adding STP with "zinc" just because but I don't think it's necessary with synthetic oil.
What I'm more interested in high millage engines is increased clearances and STP is a "viscosity indices increaser" (Sort of contradicts Number 1)
4. Diesel oil (Rotella) is thought to be a substitute in gas engines to get the zinc content.
However, diesel oil is formulated to have more detergents to maintain suspension of contaminates since diesel engines are more dirty.
This is not needed in gas engines and is counter productive.
5. Racing oils have little or no detergent since they are meant to be changed more often. (number 4).
6. "High Millage" oils supposedly have additives to "condition" your worn out seals. That's the difference.
7. Motor oil is a black art and a good synthetic oil formulated for your application is your best bet.
But black oil is generally not a good thing. Unless you are Jed Clampett.
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information. This shows what we have been saying on running a thicker oil in our cars. Now I am one of those guys that let my motor on first start after the car has been sitting like overnight let the motor warm up to running temperature before driving or exerting a load on the motor. Oil has come a long way in development over grand dads' oil back in the day. Changing oil and filters on regular sever vice intervals is and engine saver. After all it becomes carbon enriched over time also derbies from the motor. Keep a clean air filter is important also. Change oil change the air filter also. I found out that Quaker state oil my dad loved was not a good product. After taking motors apart found large amounts of sludge in the motors. So started to run different oils that did not create this effect. That oil was like hardening of the arteries. Oil passages were getting less able to deliver oil at the rate it should flow. So, this article gives us a good insight on what to run in our motors. I run 20-50 Rotella and happy with it.