Need Better Cooling

[mannye]

I have gotten a shroud, used watter wetter, straight water, watter wetter and water only and 50/50 antifreeze and I ahve come to the conclusion that the original 2-row 22 inch radiator just doeasn't transfer enough heat in the Miami Beach summers. The heat (over 100 on the street) and 85-95% humidity are just too much for the original radiator to deal with.

I haven't tride making it a sealed system yet, but I don't know if that would help.

What would you guys recommend as a replacement for it? It has to be the same size and be a complete bolt in. Is Be-Cool good? It seems pretty expensive to me....

But then again, I wonder if this is throwing money away....
[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymoto...i.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM ... 415b9a97d9[/url]

What do you guys think? Is there someone that offers a better radiator than the original at a reasonable price?

 

[sam z]

I'm running a 3 core 26" aftermarket piece that is working nicely with no shroud. Yes, I live in Buffalo and the temps aren't what you have but it is driven only in nice warm weather, the extreme being high 80's low 90's air temp and so far so good. Oh yeah, I also run a 180 thermostat and my upper and lower hose both have the spring insert so they don't collapse.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

If it were me, i would jam a 26 inch rad in there and be done. Don't even have to cut the support. The extra coolant wil do just fine, even behind the rad support metal.

If you want it to look close to stock and stay 22 inches, I really don't know what you can do.

Maybe try an Edelbrock pump painted engine color and makrings ground down and put in a high flow stat.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

I had Mancini Racing make my aluminum 22" rad. It is a direct replacement and works great. The core holds twice the volume of the stock rad. The car will run at 185 in ninety degree weather all day and I'm not using a shroud. I'm also using the aluminum high volume water pump. My fan is just the plastic Summit $25.00 special, a clutch fan will not work with this rad since the core is thicker and there is not enough clearance. :cents:

 

[69hemibeep]

Manny, I'll bet the thing is plugged up, has it ever been cored? It was designed to cool when new but if you don't care about the original look do what has been suggested above.

 

[dobie]

I have a 3 core 22" radiator in my bird, along with a 160* thermostat. No issues so far, even idling while cruising down at the Nat's a few years ago. No shroud either.

 

[george68hemirr]

BE COOL is doing the job for me...pricey....yes....you get what you pay for.....a radiator for 185.00 i think is a piece of crap....i run a flex fan/shroud/mopar pump/180 thermostat with a 1/8 hole drilled into it by me to remove any air trapped in system......at 90-100 degrees out she may run up to 200 degrees....i am happy with that

 

[John69RR]

I replaced my 22" with a 3 core 26" from Performance Radiator years ago. I also run 180º thermostat ..No issues here in Houston.

 

[mannye]

Thanks guys! More stuff to try.

Maybe a new/better water pump is needed. The radiator is fine. I am not too concerned about looking 100percent for driving around, but I do need to be able to go back to correct if needed.

What if any are the advantages of going to a sealed system? I've seen those kits that have a reservoir you bolt on the side of that radiator, but I worry that the added pressure will just cause my original radiator to leak or otherwise fail.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

Not sure what you mean by "sealed system". I'm guessing you're talking about adding an overflow tank? In which case no pressure is added to the system, it's a vented tank that catches the puke when the engine burps a little up. Speaking about pressure, what size rad cap are you using? And is the cap any good? A bad cap can cause you to run hot too.

 

[george68hemirr]

you also could be running lean....too much timing

do the hole thing in the thermostat....then jack up the side of your car where the radiator fill is...up high....look for air bubbles in the radiator....add antifreeze if needed...when air bubbles stop....air is out of the system....this works

 

[mannye]

Not sure what you mean by "sealed system". I'm guessing you're talking about adding an overflow tank? In which case no pressure is added to the system, it's a vented tank that catches the puke when the engine burps a little up. Speaking about pressure, what size rad cap are you using? And is the cap any good? A bad cap can cause you to run hot too.

I admit I am a little out of my league on the "sealed" system, but I remember hearing about a conversion tank that pressurizes the cooling system (hence "sealed") for better cooling like some German cars have. I don't know if that's worth anything or even if that makes sense.

you also could be running lean....too much timing

do the hole thing in the thermostat....then jack up the side of your car where the radiator fill is...up high....look for air bubbles in the radiator....add antifreeze if needed...when air bubbles stop....air is out of the system....this works

Where do I drill the hole? Right on top? That's a quick and easy one! I will also replace the cap just for giggles in case that's it... I have noticed some signs of leaking coolant around the cap...but I thought that was from the system getting so hot.

 

[69hemibeep]

Not sure what you mean by "sealed system". I'm guessing you're talking about adding an overflow tank? In which case no pressure is added to the system, it's a vented tank that catches the puke when the engine burps a little up. Speaking about pressure, what size rad cap are you using? And is the cap any good? A bad cap can cause you to run hot too.

I admit I am a little out of my league on the "sealed" system, but I remember hearing about a conversion tank that pressurizes the cooling system (hence "sealed") for better cooling like some German cars have. I don't know if that's worth anything or even if that makes sense.

you also could be running lean....too much timing

do the hole thing in the thermostat....then jack up the side of your car where the radiator fill is...up high....look for air bubbles in the radiator....add antifreeze if needed...when air bubbles stop....air is out of the system....this works

Where do I drill the hole? Right on top? That's a quick and easy one! I will also replace the cap just for giggles in case that's it... I have noticed some signs of leaking coolant around the cap...but I thought that was from the system getting so hot.

Sounds like allot of work Manny, just send it to me with a signed title and get yourself a nice Miata or something :jester:Oh or drill the hole below the working parts at the base but away from the gasket and housing is how I do it. I also look for a high flow stat.

 

[mannye]

Sounds like allot of work Manny, just send it to me with a signed title and get yourself a nice Miata or something :jester:Oh or drill the hole below the working parts at the base but away from the gasket and housing is how I do it. I also look for a high flow stat.

And just HOW did you know I had a Miata? HMMMMMMMMMMMM?

 

[69hemibeep]

Sounds like allot of work Manny, just send it to me with a signed title and get yourself a nice Miata or something :jester:Oh or drill the hole below the working parts at the base but away from the gasket and housing is how I do it. I also look for a high flow stat.

And just HOW did you know I had a Miata? HMMMMMMMMMMMM?

Is that you and Ray :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

 

[george68hemirr]

what bobby said