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OK, lets see who knows best.

Hoosier Bird

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OK, here's the deal. I've had my road runner for a while and I'm just now starting to do some work on it. When I bought it they told me the engine had been gone through. I didn't really care if it had or not, I just wanted it and bought it. It barely had enough power to pull up on the trailer without killing it. Got it home, drove it around and just doesn't have any power. Changed the carb with the same results. Still has a points distributor and basically everything is just like it was from the factory, just from looking at it. So tell me what you think. I checked to make sure that the plug wires are in the right order and all of the little things, I think. The timing has to be set at about 38 degrees at an idle in order for it to even run. John pointed out that my balancer may be spun out that far because of the rubber being deteriorated. Tonight I came home and tinkered a little with it. Checked the wires again then pulled the driver side valve cover off just to see what I could see. To my surprise there was no oil buildup or gunk at all. The tips of the valves look brand new, I can see the grind marks still on the end. It has double valve springs that look brand new. I pulled a couple of the push rods out and I'm sure that the lifters are brand new. I was sure the valves were not closing but after finding this I've got to do some more research. I think I need to do a compression test to make sure the valves are closing and then degree the cam to make sure they have the timing chain installed correctly. This engine does not smoke at all. :popcorn:
 

george68hemirr

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why dont you #1 top dead center and see where your rotor is pointing then mark your damper at 0 degrees....like you said somethings not right...at 38 degrees at idle...thats way off
 

Hoosier Bird

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george68hemirr said:
why dont you #1 top dead center and see where your rotor is pointing then mark your damper at 0 degrees....like you said somethings not right...at 38 degrees at idle...thats way off
At 38 top dead center rotor points to #1 plug wire. But I have not accurately found top dead center.......... :popcorn:
 

george68hemirr

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Hoosier Bird said:
george68hemirr said:
why dont you #1 top dead center and see where your rotor is pointing then mark your damper at 0 degrees....like you said somethings not right...at 38 degrees at idle...thats way off
At 38 top dead center rotor points to #1 plug wire. But I have not accurately found top dead center.......... :popcorn:

pull #1 spark plug...drop a 3/8 extension down the cylinder and set up a dial indicator on the end of the extension and twist her up to top dead center
 

george68hemirr

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it does sound like the chains on wrong...maybe a tooth or more...or your damper spun....do you have another damper to swap out??....do you have a vibration while its running??
 

Hoosier Bird

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george68hemirr said:
it does sound like the chains on wrong...maybe a tooth or more...or your damper spun....do you have another damper to swap out??....do you have a vibration while its running??
Runs too rough to feel a vibration. You can pull off any plug wire and you can't even tell a difference. I'm thinking timing chain but not sure yet. I love a good mystery. I have a new cam, carb, timing set, intake, headers, etc. etc. etc., but I want to know what the problem is before just putting it all in.
 

toms69rr

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It may be that the cam they use, could have been a Comp Cam XE268H and up. Those types take an adjustable valve train.
You can't run a stock valve train, valves never completely close.
Best thing to do is pull the cam, do some measuring and see what you have, then go from there


Tom
 

69hemibeep

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Find #1 like george said and try to time it. then look at a compression test :cheers:
 

george68hemirr

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toms69rr said:
It may be that the cam they use, could have been a Comp Cam XE268H and up. Those types take an adjustable valve train.
You can't run a stock valve train, valves never completely close.
Best thing to do is pull the cam, do some measuring and see what you have, then go from there


Tom
should be #on the face of the cam to tell you what you have
 

Hoosier Bird

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moparmoose3 said:
could it be the dist. might be out 180degrees.
When rotor button points at #1 wire both lifters are all the way down in #1 cylinder........... :popcorn: This doesn't mean that the distributor isn't totally worn out.............more info to come.
 

mac

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wow, does this sound familiar. as mentioned start with the basics and go from there. find TDC on compression on #1 and confirm mark on balancer. check to see where your dist rotor is pointing at TDC. the slot on the dist drive should be parallel to the block. if that passes, degree the cam to confirm the setting provided you know what the cam is and the specs. with my cam being out 6 degrees i could advance my timing alot without any noticable amount of power increase or starting problems. do you know what cam is installed?
 

ACME A12

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69hemibeep said:
Find #1 like george said and try to time it. then look at a compression test :cheers:

X2

Gotta know where true TDC on #1 is to get anywhere with this mystery...
 

Hoosier Bird

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Not sure on the cam yet. I will tear into it later today and post all my findings. I thought the whole motor was just worn. Boy was I surprised when I looked inside to see what looks like new parts everywhere............Stay tuned......... :popcorn:
 

Big John

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In no particular order...

check the points for proper gap and condition

check plugs for fouling

fuel pressure and flow ... especially flow.

ignition timing... set by ear if you're not sure of TDC
 

Hoosier Bird

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Big John said:
In no particular order...

check the points for proper gap and condition

check plugs for fouling

fuel pressure and flow ... especially flow.

ignition timing... set by ear if you're not sure of TDC
All of this has been done.......... :huh:
 

george68hemirr

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lack of power...
ign timing incorrect
vacuum advance not operating probably
ignition points shot
faulty spark plugs
faulty ignition cable
faulty ignition coil
faulty carburetion
lack of engine compression
preignition
inoperative manifold heater valve...stuck closed
restricted carburetor inlet resulting from dirty air cleaner or choke valve not fully open
carburetor throttle lever loose on shaft
carburetor accelerating pump not functioning properly
improper fuel pump operation
partially restricted exhaust pipe,muffler or tail pipes
 
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