Pistons coming out very difficultly

[Confederate1969]

Since the crank won't budge, I'm having to tackle the pistons that are already at BDC so I can get to the rod bolts. So I have started with pistons # 7 and 8. Eight came out after about an hour of moderate rapping with a hammer and a piece of wood on the bottom of the piston. Seven has been impossible and won't move out at all. :brickwall: :brickwall: These puppies have had PB blaster on and around them for weeks, so they're as lubricated as they will get.

After getting #8 out, the cylinder walls don't look quite as bad as I had originally thought they would. There is rust where the rings were, as was expected.

 

[Confederate1969]

And here is piston #8.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Patience is a virtue............LOL

 

[Basketcase]

I've heard of some pistons comming out in pieces because they were stuck bad enough. keep at it!

 

[69hemibeep]

Yep I see signs of what looks like water deposits, that will make it tough! How did the oil look? On an old motor it could be condensation is all.

 

[Confederate1969]

Far as I could tell (being no expert), the oil looked just fine coming out. Memphis is humid as hell year-round and condensation doesn't surprise me at all.

Will my wood+hammer+banging method do any damage? I've seen this done before even by professionals, but does this have any risks? I don't have much of a choice since a stuck piston is a stuck piston. But I'm just wondering about possible results of this removal method. I don't care if all I salvage is the block. I can write off everything, pistons, cam and all for all I care - but I really really want to save the block. I'll drop a 440 in my next playtoy Mopar, but this one's gotta stay with the orig 383. The only way I'd throw out this block is if it had gotten cracked from freezing or whatever in the past.

Also - one more question. Let's say even if these pistons are salvageable, I decide I'm going to upgrade to better, newer tech anyways (likely). Do I have the block machined first (not knowing how much it needs to be bored) then buy pistons for that new bore? Or do I buy pistons first and then have a machine shop measure and fit them?

 

[Basketcase]

I would figure on replacing the pistons. IIRC, a .30 bore is normal. When I had my 440 done, the machinst ordered what was needed. He measured each piston seperatly, then bored a cylinder to fit each indivudal piston.
With using a block of wood to strike the piston, I don't see anyharm coming to anything else. I would cut some wood,inch or so thick to cover the block deck just for insurance if you're really wailing on the hammer.

 

[Big John]

You won't hurt the block as long as you're careful. You might mess up the pistons, but at this point, I wouldn't worry about it.

Your machine shop will need the pistons to bore and hone each cylinder to correct size. Each piston may vary in size by a few thousandths (.001) of an inch.

If you can get your hands on a "dead blow" hammer, it may move the pistons a little easier.

 

[martin69rr]

If you are taking the pistons out of the top you might find it easier if you use a ridge reamer to remove the bur at the top of the piston but if you can't get your hands on one brut force is best.