rear engine support ?

[trim88]

The service manual for 69 383 says you must use Tool C-3487 to support the rear of the engine to remove tranny. I've never removed a 383 and tranny before. Hmmm, I have to raise the car to get the tranny out and then have to lower it to get the engine out....that is if I do it that way. I can't drop the engine and tranny out the bottom because I only have so much room and must be able to roll the car out of the garage and into a trailer after I get the engine out. I have never seen nor can find a picture of this C-3487 support tool.
So, how do I hold the rear of the engine up while lowering the car down to get the cherry picker hooked up to the engine to pull it?
Is this tool still available somewhere or does someone have a picture of it to possibly make one?
Would appreciate anyone that can set me straight and thanks for listening, Jim

 

[Big John]

I've used a bar that fits across the frame rails at the rear of the engine. I used a cut off torsion bar. Slide it in, put a couple bolts in the rear of the engine and set it on the bar. If you want to get a little fancier, a piece of heavy angle with a couple of holes would work a little better.

Just be careful and don't get underneath the engine.

 

[abodybill]

Big John's idea is a good one and I have used a piece of chain to go from torsion bar to torsion bar and then run bolts thru the chain ends like clamped around the bars and it has worked for me.

 

[Basketcase]

I've used a chain or nylon strap to support an engine.

 

[droptop]

Why not pull the engine first? :cents:

 

[trim88]

Thanks all for the replys and suggestions, it helps my learnin. I think I can handle it now, Jim

 

[John69RR]

I use a jackstand with a piece of 2x4 and rest it on the back of the oil pan to hold the engine up.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

I don't know, there seems to be a lot of opinions on this but all i did was insert a piece of wood between the center link and the oil pan and called it a day.. :cents:

 

[Big John]

I don't know, there seems to be a lot of opinions on this but all i did was insert a piece of wood between the center link and the oil pan and called it a day.. :cents:

I've seen that done too. The only issue is then you can't steer the car if you need to move it.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

I don't know, there seems to be a lot of opinions on this but all i did was insert a piece of wood between the center link and the oil pan and called it a day.. :cents:

I've seen that done too. The only issue is then you can't steer the car if you need to move it.

Good point John.
I'm only saying that if you're doing it all at once, that's all you need to do, and it's only a few hour job anyway. If you're leaving the engine in and plan on jockeying the car around, well I guess you'd better lube up the casters on your floor jack.

 

[trim88]

Well, I went up today to have a piece welded so I could go between the torsion bars as one of you suggested and Matt (the welder) said why don't you just slip a 2 X 4 either on top of the fenders or span it between the wells that are on each fender and chain the engine to it! I came back home and looked at his suggestion and bingo it works great. I pulled the 2 rear manifold bolts, used a little longer bolt on one side with a link of the chain on it, wrapped the chain around the 2 X 4, bolted them back in and and presto. (saved the right rear engine pulling bolt hole for the cherry picker)
Thanks again for all your help, you got me going..... as I was a little reluctant to get started with trying to figure out how I was going to do this.
Jim

 

[A31PKG]

Once the trans is out the engine will be relatively stable, balance-wise. You can use one of these to attach to the intake manifold, just remove the carb and you're in business... They are cheap too...here's a link:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1015/?rtype=10