Replacing dash instrument bezel how to?

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CWR

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I am probably going to get a Insrument panal bezel (black rextangular, has the lettering for lights wipers etc., to replace mine which shows its years. I removed the 4 screws and the thing still seems tight.actually the switches seem like they want to come too. I have just gently pried at it so far...... There may be an obvious solution ..........might it be glued in also?
any suggestions will be appreciated. I have searched the threads but have come up empty.
 
You have to take the cluster and switch panel entirely out as there are small screws that are screwed through the back of the cluster into the bezel. Its no small job and can overwhelm you once the cluster is all out because it looks like a bomb went off in your dash. Be patient, take your time and mark wires as necessary to make sure you get them all back in the right place. I've done this more times than I care to count and in reality, need to do it again, but right now I'd just rather drive the car than mess with it. If you have a shop manual it might help to describe how to do it. If not, I'll have to get up some gumption and take some pics to show you what screws you need to loosen and/or remove to get access to the cluster and switch panel.
 
Give me a day or so. I have a spare cluster laying around somewhere. I'll try to dig it out and take a few photos. The whole panel has to come out.
 
That would be great since I bought the bezel on E Bay (won the auction) so I'm comitted to replacing it
 
I shipped my bezel and armrest bases out to be rechomed just before you started this thread. let me dig thru my pics. :popcorn:
 
i looked up in reference ( Plymouth shop manual) about getting the dash parts out and after some clamps on the steering wheel removal...........they say remove the 4 screws holding the bezel and remove it.As I said earlier the rocker switches want to come with it....I should pretzel myself and look back underneath maybe? its never easy Im finding out and lots of patience is important!!!
 
all of the switches are screwed to the back of the panel and the lower dash pad holds onto the panel pretty tight. if you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the panel off of ebay.
 
The actual bezel was $64 plus $13.50 shipping... about $85 CDN The pictures looked like it was in excellent shape. close ups of the lettering looked perfect..........now to figure out how to replace the original
 
You have to unplug all the switches in the rocker switch panel and then pry it out first by getting a wide, flat blade screwdriver behind it. Move around to various positions and try to get it out evenly. After it is out its easier to take out the cluster. You'll also need to disconnect the speedometer cable from the cluster and disconnect the alternator gauge's 2 wires from the cluster as well. Removing the ash tray and cig lighter assembly will help in getting to the back of the cluster and rocker panel.
It would be worth it to remove your seat as this will create a lot more room for you to get up under the dash. With buckets its easier than with the bench seat. While not absolutely necessary, I've removed everything with the bucket seat still in the car and moved all the way back but I still wind up standing on my head and twisted like a pretzel.
 
I had the Rallys cluster out of my '68 Charger out severl times. I only had to pull the cluster out of my other road runner once. I'd much rather pull a Rallye. I'd like a new bezel for this car, just not bad enough to deal with taking the dash apart.
 
mcmopar said:
You have to unplug all the switches in the rocker switch panel and then pry it out first by getting a wide, flat blade screwdriver behind it. Move around to various positions and try to get it out evenly. After it is out its easier to take out the cluster. You'll also need to disconnect the speedometer cable from the cluster and disconnect the alternator gauge's 2 wires from the cluster as well. Removing the ash tray and cig lighter assembly will help in getting to the back of the cluster nad rocker panel.
It would be worth it to remove your seat as this will create a lot more room for you to get up under the dash. With buckets its easier than with the bench seat. While not absolutely necessary, I've removed everything with the bucket seat still in the car and moved all the way back but I still wind up standing on my head and twisted like a pretzel.
Click to expand...

this is exactly what you need to do I have had my 69 dash apart 20 time its a petzel nuckle busting job , but i have it down to a science now .


The dash pads(around the switch panel ) swell over the years they are a very tight fit , just keep at it . it will come out , be gentle and dont rip the pad or distort and metal frame in the pad . Then the pad will look like crap and all bent .
 
After re-reading your post, it now makes sense. For some reason I thought you were talking about the actual dash panel, and not the switch panel.

I'm right now in the middle of this same crap, with my wiper problems. All of the switches are screwed onto the back of the panel. It's a hell of a lot easier to remove the lower dash pad, but you can pry it out without doing so. This is what I'm doing. Just be careful and go slow!!! Dropping or removing the steering column helps too. Unplug the harnesses from underneath the dash. (While standing on your head, twisting your arms into unholy positions, and cursing like a drunken sailor.) After that, it gets a tad easier.
 
moparstuart said:
mcmopar said:
You have to unplug all the switches in the rocker switch panel and then pry it out first by getting a wide, flat blade screwdriver behind it. Move around to various positions and try to get it out evenly. After it is out its easier to take out the cluster. You'll also need to disconnect the speedometer cable from the cluster and disconnect the alternator gauge's 2 wires from the cluster as well. Removing the ash tray and cig lighter assembly will help in getting to the back of the cluster nad rocker panel.
It would be worth it to remove your seat as this will create a lot more room for you to get up under the dash. With buckets its easier than with the bench seat. While not absolutely necessary, I've removed everything with the bucket seat still in the car and moved all the way back but I still wind up standing on my head and twisted like a pretzel.
Click to expand...

this is exactly what you need to do I have had my 69 dash apart 20 time its a petzel nuckle busting job , but i have it down to a science now .


The dash pads(around the switch panel ) swell over the years they are a very tight fit , just keep at it . it will come out , be gentle and dont rip the pad or distort and metal frame in the pad . Then the pad will look like crap and all bent .
Click to expand...
Its best to start on the left side of the switch panel because its rounded and wont cut the pad, and make sure the battery is disconnected
 
I had a look underneath and now see how the switches are screwed into the back of the panel . I already have a quarter inch of play at the cigar lighter end. I'll wait until my new one gets here (which I see another one $15 cheaper on E bay today)!!!! I''ll unhook the wires from the switches AND TAG THEM I can see that the seat should come out ( new bolts so should be easy. Thanks so far It all helps! Does the speedo cable really have to be unhooked?
 
CWR said:
I had a look underneath and now see how the switches are screwed into the back of the panel . I already have a quarter inch of play at the cigar lighter end. I'll wait until my new one gets here (which I see another one $15 cheaper on E bay today)!!!! I''ll unhook the wires from the switches AND TAG THEM I can see that the seat should come out ( new bolts so should be easy. Thanks so far It all helps! Does the speedo cable really have to be unhooked?
Click to expand...
not to remove the switch panel / just if you remove the speedo cluster
 
Yes, it does because you have to remove the speedo cluster in order to get to the screws which secure the bezel.
BTW - you don't need to unscrew the switches - just unplug the harnesses.
 
mcmopar said:
Yes, it does because you have to remove the speedo cluster in order to get to the screws which secure the bezel.
BTW - you don't need to unscrew the switches - just unplug the harnesses.
Click to expand...

I guess mine never had those screws in it then , My switch panel is only held in be the 4 screws on the black face of the panel . Now once you get the panel out I know there are 2 kinds hidden screws the hold the pad to the dash frame .
 
What we are talking about is a bezel that is attached to the cluster assembly. Its a rectangular trim piece that was either painted black or finished in a plastic chrome plating. My car originally was a mid-grade trim car that had the chrome finished bezel but I had to replace it since it was all ratty looking and all I could find at the time was a black painted piece. It is attached by a number of screws that are inserted from the back side of the cluster but you'll never reach them all when the cluster is in the car. You have to remove the cluster completely in order to remove them and get the bezel off. If I remember correctly there are about 8-10 screws that attach the bezel to the cluster.
 
Got my replacement bezel today and decided to loosen the old one a bit. Unhooked WW switch and WW washer switches. Also removed ash tray. By pushing and prying I got it out so I could see underneath it..............Then I pushed some picture hanging wire through 2 right screw holes and fished the far end back to me from under the bezel.......... got a good hold of the wire , pulled and it(bezel) came out so I could plainly see the Right side switches. Enough for a while hooked wire on switches took out wire and pushed back in.........I had neglected to take off battery cable and when I put right screw back in............got SMOKE.......wire on WWwaher switch had become jammed and shorted against the metal...........NOW I turn off all juice to battery....live and learn. I also see that the dash light rheostat is not even hooked up but dash light work .....but no dimming...I can live with that. I think the wire thing is going to work!! :yesnod:
 
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