rust bullet
- Thread starter inkjunkie
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moparstuart
Well-Known Member
I had a great experience with rust bullet , por 15 not that was a whole other story , that stuff is crap .inkjunkie said:
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
POR-15 worked well for me - you just have to use it according to the directions and not on smooth metal. If little or no rust is present you need to use some 80 grit sandpaper to create some "tooth" and use their Metal Prep to make sure the POR-15 adheres properly. I did my entire engine compartment with POR-15; inner fenders, firewall, radiator bulkhead, headlight area and the bottom side of the hood, along with the bottom of both new floor pans and suspension parts. The only place it failed me was on a frame rail that I did not scuff up. Other than that it has held up for 7 years now.
But, to the question at hand - yes, by all means, coat the metal with Rust Bullet - 2 coats. The second coat should be applied approx. 3 hours after the first for proper adhesion - make sure to follow the directions supplied by the manufacturer. And make sure that you do as mentioned above - rough up the surface of the metal to create some "tooth" for the Rust Bullet to stick to. None of these treatments will work on clean, smooth metal. They will eventually peel/flake off if the surface is not prepared correctly.
But, to the question at hand - yes, by all means, coat the metal with Rust Bullet - 2 coats. The second coat should be applied approx. 3 hours after the first for proper adhesion - make sure to follow the directions supplied by the manufacturer. And make sure that you do as mentioned above - rough up the surface of the metal to create some "tooth" for the Rust Bullet to stick to. None of these treatments will work on clean, smooth metal. They will eventually peel/flake off if the surface is not prepared correctly.
moparchris
Well-Known Member
In the past I have used the rust converter from eastwoods. Then paint right over it.
It has been a toss up between Rust Bullet, Por 15 and the Eastwood product. My painter has never used Rust Bullet. He called a few minutes ago and we decided to give it a try. It will be applied under the vinyl top and inside the quarters. We will be using Lizard Skin Ceramic inside the car. This is the first vehicle I have had painted, at least hot rod wise. I had no idea how much time and work was involoved. My painter is friends with a guy by the name of Joe Savino, who has volunteered to help him. From what I have been told Joe has done several of the cars that are in the Mopar Museum, including the 68 Hemi Cuda Mule car......anybody ever hear of him????
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
The difference between Rust Bullet, POR-15 and the Eastwood product is this:
POR-15 and Rust Bullet are both impervious to solvents once they are dried/cured. Eastwood's is not. I have used all 3 and after all of them were cured/dried for 24 hours I sprayed them with carb cleaner to test them. POR-15 and Rust Bullet were unaffected but the Eastwood stuff came right up.
If using a spray gun to apply RB or POR-15 make sure to THOROUGHLY CLEAN it out with acetone or your spray gun will be completely unusable. Once this stuff sets there is no getting it off short of a sand blaster (and it's still a pain) or DOT 3 brake fluid (works very well).
POR-15 and Rust Bullet are both impervious to solvents once they are dried/cured. Eastwood's is not. I have used all 3 and after all of them were cured/dried for 24 hours I sprayed them with carb cleaner to test them. POR-15 and Rust Bullet were unaffected but the Eastwood stuff came right up.
If using a spray gun to apply RB or POR-15 make sure to THOROUGHLY CLEAN it out with acetone or your spray gun will be completely unusable. Once this stuff sets there is no getting it off short of a sand blaster (and it's still a pain) or DOT 3 brake fluid (works very well).
Big John
Sit back, relax Don't bitch about the cigar smoke
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I sprayed a Jeep with POR-15 about 15 years ago. I thinned it with their solvent, sprayed it and when it was just starting to set up, I sprayed it with lacquer primer. A little more primer after it dried and top coated it. It came out great!
PA couple things to remember... always wear gloves. If you get it on your hands its there until next week. It doesn't come off! Put some clear food wrap on the can when you put the top back on or you will never get the top off. It catalyzes with the moisture in the air, so you don't want to work with it on a humid day.
Wear a respirator if your spraying it or workinng in an enclosed area too.
PA couple things to remember... always wear gloves. If you get it on your hands its there until next week. It doesn't come off! Put some clear food wrap on the can when you put the top back on or you will never get the top off. It catalyzes with the moisture in the air, so you don't want to work with it on a humid day.
Wear a respirator if your spraying it or workinng in an enclosed area too.
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Yeah - definitely wear gloves. The only way to get it off is while it's still wet. Carb spray or acetone will get it right off. After it's dry, forget it, you'll be wearing it for a week. Also Big is quite correct about a respirator if spraying it. I forgot about that.