• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

She Runs TOO HOT.

Roadcuda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
10,539
Reaction score
283
Location
Rocky Hill, Ct
For some over heating in traffic problems I had I added a Flowkooler water pump with a smaller pulley and I even tried a 160 thermostat. The car has a shroud and a 3 core 26" rad. it's helped but on occasion I still have a problem depending on how long I get stuck in traffic.
 

RoadRunnerJD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Messages
212
Reaction score
1
Location
N. Virginia
My 2013 stock 5.7 runs steady at 206. I have seen it get up to 212 in hot weather and stop and go but 250 is bound to be damaging to the motor. Incorrect camshaft timing will affect engine temperature but something is not right with your setup. Maybe your thermostat is not working? It is supposed to open when the water temperature gets up to the temperature rating of the thermostat. You should be able to see the water moving in the radiator with the cap off when the thermostat is open. I would run a 160 but your water temperature should really not get to much over 10-15 degrees higher than the thermostat rating even at it's hottest. Are you sure your temperature gauge is working correctly? I have also seen head gaskets installed incorrectly that blocked the flow and caused excessive temps. You should not drive it at those temps.
 
Last edited:

moparmonk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
330
Reaction score
0
Location
Hermon, Maine
Ranger just made a great post on #39. I recently bought a neon with a bad transmission for my son. I put a new transmission in it and was great for 3 weeks. One day he called and said it just overheated. I went to it, refilled the coolant, and drove it for another week with out a hiccup. A week later, another boil the coolant out of it incident. I changed the thermostat and verified the fans working and always on when the a/c was on. While I was in the car idling, it would never overheat, even after an hour of idling at 75 degrees. While I was checking it one night (after the 3rd overheat, on a hot night) the fan kicked on while I was standing in front of it. It was blowing the air out the radiator and not pulling it in and about melted my legs. Turns out, when previous owner took fans out to troubleshoot the tranny, He just yanked wires out of plug instead of unsnapping the plug like a smart one would do. When he reinstalled them, he reversed the wires causing the fans to run backwards. Pretty hard to push air out the radiator going down the road. Verify the air is being pulled through the radiator. Hard lesson learned but proud to have solved it! This was no big block, but it was a nice lesson!
 

bigmanjbmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
395
Reaction score
25
Not that my opinion matters, but I have now done a great deal of research on the subject and have put together a few posts to help others out, as well having upgraded my own set up to a 26" radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes and dual electric 12" fans on a thermostat relay set to go at 170-180 losing the mech fan takes a good load off the motor as well and I can now comfortably cruise at 180 and even climb to 210 in traffic returning to 180 sitting at a stop. On 100°+ days of course it will climb to 220-225 but will cool down once the either of two things happen, 1. the fans do their job and cool the coolant down while idling in traffic or 2. back to highway speeds and air gets flowing again. My set up pulls 3k cfm+ through the two rows very well remember more rows is not the answer larger tubes are read up below. Anyway for those who want to read a few facts about this here you go. Again, factory guys look away!

Post Aluminum Radiator upgrade / Change? Read this

I bought one of Engineered cooling products 26" 2 row of 1" tubes. bare minimum I could get for use with the Evan's waterless coolant system and it works would have prefered 1.5: tubes in the config I needed. They have a good write up on the why's and how's.

http://www.speedcooling.com/coretypes/info_6.html


Another good explanation from Dave Fuller on all cylinders (aka Summit Racing) Tech Blog

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/12/13/how-to-choose-an-aftermarket-radiator/



Some general info -

http://www.griffinrad.com/material.php

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d7/Engine-cooling-system.jpg

http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-V8-Radiator.html


http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/cooling-radiators.html

http://www.alumrad.com/aboutus.htm


Some great advice here -


http://www.automotiveu.com/SolvingOverheating.htm


http://www.offroaders.com/tech/engine-overheating.htm
 
Last edited:
Back
Top