Speaking of manifold heat riser...

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mannye

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Where do i buy the valley pan or other article that can block that off? I'm tired of hot exhaust gasses I will never need since I don't live in the great white north messing up the paint on my manifold and heating up my intake charge.

The average temp here is 85 and the average humidity is 90. :brickwall:

Is it very hard to istall? All I have are a regular socket set and the brain of a chimp.

and my hair will be extra poofy, since it's outdoors....
 
:lol: It would be very easy to install. I think anyone with a socket set and a set of wrenches could do it. As far as the article I dont know of any, but in the past I believe I have used a Fel Pro valley pan with the heat riser blocked off. I would call Summit Racing and I bet they sell what your looking for......... Oh and a hat or hair gel keeps my fro to a minimum.
 
Fantastic! Ordered it from Summit.

It being the rainy season, I should have plenty of time to get that done.
 
Nice to have a torque wrench for the intake bolts. I just use the pan without the paper gaskets. Some gas resistant sealer around the ports (Hylomar HPF) and some RTV silicon (ultra copper) in the corners and under the end rails. Get the intake and block real clean first without dropping anything down the ports or engine. I use a towel to cover the cam and paper towel to stuff into the ports when cleaning. Use a outside in sequence to slowly torque the intake off and a inside out sequence to slowly torque it back on. Anti-seize on the bolts. 40 ft. lbs. Lot of different ways but, that's how I do it.
 
Jim S. said:
Nice to have a torque wrench for the intake bolts. I just use the pan without the paper gaskets. Some gas resistant sealer around the ports (Hylomar HPF) and some RTV silicon (ultra copper) in the corners and under the end rails. Get the intake and block real clean first without dropping anything down the ports or engine. I use a towel to cover the cam and paper towel to stuff into the ports when cleaning. Use a outside in sequence to slowly torque the intake off and a inside out sequence to slowly torque it back on. Anti-seize on the bolts. 40 ft. lbs. Lot of different ways but, that's how I do it.
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That's great! Thanks! I would have completely screwed that one up. Of course I always check youtube before i do anything. I learned how to replace a fuel pump, make custom kick panels, etc.
 
Another great way to keep heat away from the fuel in the carb, is to use an insulator instead of a base gasket. They serve the same purpose, as far as sealing goes, but they also do double-duty by keeping heat down at the base plate, and thus lower fuel temps...I think I got mine from Summit or Mancini...It's made by Fel-Pro and is a laminated "sandwich" of alternating paper & steel gaskets. I painted the sides flat black so it wouldn't stand out. It's only about 1/4" thick, so it shouldn't interfere with air cleaner clearance. There are other solid styles available as well, but I think the laminated type is most effective. Just be sure to keep the thickness at or below 1/4" if your in keeping with a stock appearance. Also get the style with 4 individual venturi holes as opposed to one big square one...It does make a difference! Especially when it comes to hot-soak restarts!
 
A31PKG said:
Another great way to keep heat away from the fuel in the carb, is to use an insulator instead of a base gasket. They serve the same purpose, as far as sealing goes, but they also do double-duty by keeping heat down at the base plate, and thus lower fuel temps...I think I got mine from Summit or Mancini...It's made by Fel-Pro and is a laminated "sandwich" of alternating paper & steel gaskets. I painted the sides flat black so it wouldn't stand out. It's only about 1/4" thick, so it shouldn't interfere with air cleaner clearance. There are other solid styles available as well, but I think the laminated type is most effective. Just be sure to keep the thickness at or below 1/4" if your in keeping with a stock appearance. Also get the style with 4 individual venturi holes as opposed to one big square one...It does make a difference! Especially when it comes to hot-soak restarts!
Click to expand...
Oh man! Those summer re-starts are a bear! I get in the car and the temp needle goes up so fast it makes a dent on the right side!
 
mannye said:
A31PKG said:
Another great way to keep heat away from the fuel in the carb, is to use an insulator instead of a base gasket. They serve the same purpose, as far as sealing goes, but they also do double-duty by keeping heat down at the base plate, and thus lower fuel temps...I think I got mine from Summit or Mancini...It's made by Fel-Pro and is a laminated "sandwich" of alternating paper & steel gaskets. I painted the sides flat black so it wouldn't stand out. It's only about 1/4" thick, so it shouldn't interfere with air cleaner clearance. There are other solid styles available as well, but I think the laminated type is most effective. Just be sure to keep the thickness at or below 1/4" if your in keeping with a stock appearance. Also get the style with 4 individual venturi holes as opposed to one big square one...It does make a difference! Especially when it comes to hot-soak restarts!
Click to expand...
Oh man! Those summer re-starts are a bear! I get in the car and the temp needle goes up so fast it makes a dent on the right side!
Click to expand...

A good reason for an electric fuel pump!
 
Big John said:
mannye said:
A31PKG said:
Another great way to keep heat away from the fuel in the carb, is to use an insulator instead of a base gasket. They serve the same purpose, as far as sealing goes, but they also do double-duty by keeping heat down at the base plate, and thus lower fuel temps...I think I got mine from Summit or Mancini...It's made by Fel-Pro and is a laminated "sandwich" of alternating paper & steel gaskets. I painted the sides flat black so it wouldn't stand out. It's only about 1/4" thick, so it shouldn't interfere with air cleaner clearance. There are other solid styles available as well, but I think the laminated type is most effective. Just be sure to keep the thickness at or below 1/4" if your in keeping with a stock appearance. Also get the style with 4 individual venturi holes as opposed to one big square one...It does make a difference! Especially when it comes to hot-soak restarts!
Click to expand...
Oh man! Those summer re-starts are a bear! I get in the car and the temp needle goes up so fast it makes a dent on the right side!
Click to expand...

A good reason for an electric fuel pump!
Click to expand...

Really? Why would that work better? Not that it's an option, since I'm trying to keep her as correct as possible, but I am curious.
 
mannye said:
Big John said:
A good reason for an electric fuel pump!
Click to expand...

Really? Why would that work better? Not that it's an option, since I'm trying to keep her as correct as possible, but I am curious.
Click to expand...

What happens is the carb gets hot and the gas (especially today's gas) in the float bowl evaporates off. You then are trying to start the car with no gas in the carb. You crank and crank until the mechanical fuel pump (and that's hot too) fills up the float bowl with fresh gas. The electric pump will fill the float bowl with fresh, cool gas at the turn of a switch.

Even a small pump will work and you can hide it back by the tank near the rear axle. You could switch it on and off as needed although I would still wire it so it can only run when the ignition is on. The other benefit is you can have fast starts after the car has sat... no more cranking for minutes if the car has sat for a few weeks.

I think its one of those concession things when restoring a car if you are going to drive the car. Kinda like radials and halogen headlights.

Of course, I still won't put one of those wimpy new starters in any of my cars. :stuckup:
 
I agree 100%! I installed mine up high on the rear crossmember above the tank. It's a huge help when starting after sitting for a spell, or after a hot soak. It also keeps the HC's a-flowin' when you make that occasional trip to the track. All it does is "push" fuel upstream. It's suplemental, and works in concert with the mechanical pump. Once energized, it only operates as needed. You do not need a switch. I think AC Delco makes them, as does Bosch. They can be purchased at most Auto Parts stores for around 50-75 bucks. Here's a pic of what mine looks like...
 
I have seen advertised by changing valley pans with block offs a 20-25 hp gain. Sounds a little extreme to me. If I could gain 8-10 hp it would be worth it . Also on aluminum intakes, any after markets with the threaded a/c bracket mount ? OR any pulley kits to remove a/c compressor ? I would appreciate any advice on these topics. THANK-YOU very much for your time. ENJOY THE HOLIDAYS!!!!
 
I saw this thread and thought that Mannye had popped back in...then I realized it was just an old thread brought back to life... Wonder how South Beach Mannye is doing...?
 
been mIA since Febuary...didn't relize it had been that long :missing:
 
Basketcase said:
Big John said:
Of course, I still won't put one of those wimpy new starters in any of my cars. :stuckup:
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:lmao: :thumbsup:
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Big said that in May of 2010 and you just now got it? You green guys are slow :jester: :snowball:
 
may your pits be infested with the fleas of a thousand camels......
and some things just bear repeating.....
:snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :snowball:
 
I recently installed a 2" Wood phenolic spacer, not the cheap-o plastic looking phenolic spacer, but the wood-looking spacer and removed the 2" aluminum spacer. After a trip into town I popped the hood and could put my finger on the spacer for several seconds. It felt warm at most. The old 2" aluminum spacer was super hot and would burn my finger very quick. I'm all for a cooler charge of gas getting into the carb!

This may also help prevent vapor lock or hard starting when the car is warm.
 
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