stupid is,as stupid does

[3836bbl]

I forgot to mention that the scored area on the sure grip (scalloping)is old damage from 10 years ago when my old 3:23 pinion was loose and rubbed against the housing.
These are Richmond gears now(4:10).
2 days before taking the car to the strip we replaced the yoke because of a stripped u-joint strap hole.I was still running a "crush" sleeve and I may have crushed it a little more when replacing the yoke. I know the drag resistance felt a little bit tighter when I was finished.
This probably did not help matters.
On a lighter note,I'm glad I had a rev limiter,AND I'm glad I don't use an automatic transmission,or I would be replacing it as well.(no offense to those too lazy to row the gears)
John

 

[Basketcase]

.(no offense to those too lazy to row the gears)
John

the only offense was to our kentucky brother.......

 

[440Kilmartin]

TIME FOR A DANA

 

[moparstuart]

:yesnod:

The weakest link in an 8 3/4 is the housing. Under hard acceleration, the housing will actually flex and allow the ring gear to deflect away from the pinion gear. Once you loose enough contact area, the teeth will break off. I have seen this before. :yesnod: You can add support to the back side of the housing to keep from flexing, or go to a dana. :cents:

I love dana , she is awesome :drool: :drool:

 

[3836bbl]

Lookin to upgrade to a complete Dana drop-in assembly.
Reccomendations on the cheapest bang for the buck?
Street car,heavy(3840)& manual tranny .
sees minimal track time,but hard street use.
John

 

[moparchris]

I have built a 12 bolt chevy (which we all know is weaker than an 8.75) for a 3600 pound Chevelle that runs 9.00s at 150 and runs a Jerico 4 speed launching at 7400 where it makes over 800 ft/lbs. We found that setting up the backlash at zero is key to keeping the ring and pinion alive. I also machine the carrier face so that I get a true zero runout. The gears sometimes have as much as .004 thou runout and this is a problem for a powerful heavy stick car. So I usually buy a few sets of gears and use the one that is the least. It seems that Richmonds have the best tolerances. Once I find one that is acceptable I return the others and Summit is good about it. It costs a little more but its worth it. The reason stick cars strip teeth off (just like yours) is that the drivers side main cap stretches and opens up the backlash setting momentarily when you release the clutch. So I use ARP fasteners when I can for the main cap and a billet cap for the drivers side. Obviously if you drive the car on the street the gears will eat themselves with zero lash but I would tighten the lash up to .003 at the tightest point for you car. I know you weren't necessarily looking for advice but I thought I would tell you about my experiences. I think an 8.75 will live in a 9 second stick car no problem. A Dana would be stronger but it too has to be set up right or it will grenade too. :cents:

Oh BTW in the Chevelle it has broken the trans twice when the rear broke. He has made hamburger out of the Jerico four times if I remember correctly.

 

[3836bbl]

Thanks for the tip!

John