top ball joint

[andy69]

Im doing a front end kit bushes,joints etc from PST(which only took 2 wks ex usa to aust-great work guys) ive taken most apart except for one f=#$@n top ball joint i just cant move,tried a pickle fork-if thats what there called,i smashed the shit out of it still not moving....anyone help :loco:

 

[george68hemirr]

i am sure its screwed in..and they sell a special socket to fit the upper ball joint...you may need some heat to get her out

 

[sixgunrunner68]

x2
I had to heat mine up. The socket is expensive see if you can borrow one. After I removed the ball joint I wire brushed (bench grinder) the threads and cut some flutes into it with a cut off wheel in order to simulate a tap. It made a good thread chaser to clean up the control arm threads so there weren't any issues installing the new.

 

[Big John]

If you are looking to seperate the spindle from the ball joint, the best way I've found is to loosen the nut a few turns (don't tak it off) pull down on the spindle and smack the side of the spindle with a big hammer where the ball joint stud goes through.

Other methods include jamming the pickle fork into the gap between the spindle and ball joint to give downward pressure and again crack the side of the spindle with the hammer. You can also get the tool like the service manual shows http://www.americanmuscle.biz/23481_Upper_Ball_Joint_Stud_Remover_A_B_E_p/23481.htm and again, you apply pressure and smack the side of the spindle with your favorite big hammer.

 

[Basketcase]

yeah the top ball joint is screwed in. I haven't needed to use one for a few years, but my local parts stored rented the socket.or in a pinch a large pipe wrench will do.

 

[moparchris]

If your trying to remove the ball joint from the control arm itself, then it unscrews like everyone else said. Sometimes people tack weld the ball joint to the arm if the threads are messed up. It sounds like you are trying to seperate the knuckle from the ball joint stud. If thats the case then hitting the cast part of the knuckle that surrounds the ball joint stud with a big hammer will do the job.

[youtube:1bctzl9q]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc[/youtube:1bctzl9q]

 

[ACME A12]

What Chris said - if the ball joint won't turn look for a tack weld or two...people mess the UCRs up not realizing that the ball joints unscrew and then the only way they can get the new ball joint secured is to weld them in. Seen it a hundred times...

If it is the steering knuckle that you're having trouble with then Big John & Chris both gave you the answer...a BFH on the side of the steering knuckle (spindle to everyone besides Ma MoPar) will do the trick...

The boys know their stuff...

 

[69hemibeep]

The control arm thread usually get screwed up by someone trying to press the ball joint out, the socket is about $50 at NAPA. As far as the stud from the spindle that's been covered above :horse:

 

[moparchris]

The control arm thread usually get screwed up by someone trying to press the ball joint out, the socket is about $50 at NAPA. As far as the stud from the spindle that's been covered above :horse:

Come on Bob you dont have a picture to share? :acme:

 

[69hemibeep]

The control arm thread usually get screwed up by someone trying to press the ball joint out, the socket is about $50 at NAPA. As far as the stud from the spindle that's been covered above :horse:

Come on Bob you dont have a picture to share? :acme:

Sure I do

 

[andy69]

thanks all, after staying up late trying to get that ball joint off using a pickle bar,i left ,had a few beers come back next day,used the hammer on the side trick as suggested, no problem......also when rebuilding the front end is there anything i should watch out for.....cheers :crazy:

 

[ACME A12]

also when rebuilding the front end is there anything i should watch out for.....cheers :crazy:

No, not really. Pretty straight forward. Do you have the tools to remove/install the UCR/LCR bushings? You can improvise, but it's a PITA. I've always been told not to tighten up the nut on the LCR/torsion bar anchor until the front end is on the ground so as to not introduce any preload. Somebody will chime in with other suggestions I'm sure.

 

[69hemibeep]

Removing the Lower control arm bushings is a job. I used a torch and burned the rubber out and then put a hack saw together with the blade to the inside and cut the metal sleeve to remove it. I'm sure you will get some other methods suggested. Also the biggest mistake made on assembly, leave the lower control arm nuts loose until the car is on the ground and completely finished with the torsion bars adjusted so the car has all its weight on them before tightening. Otherwise the bushings are in a bind and will tear as the car settles on them, you will drive your alignment guy nuts as to why your ride height keeps going down. It will have to be done on a lift I had my alignment guy torque them.

 

[ACME A12]

Removing the Lower control arm bushings is a job. I used a torch and burned the rubber out and then put a hack saw together with the blade to the inside and cut the metal sleeve to remove it. I'm sure you will get some other methods suggested. Also the biggest mistake made on assembly, leave the lower control arm nuts loose until the car is on the ground and completely finished with the torsion bars adjusted so the car has all its weight on them before tightening. Otherwise the bushings are in a bind and will tear as the car settles on them, you will drive your alignment guy nuts as to why your ride height keeps going down. It will have to be done on a lift I had my alignment guy torque them.

So you managed to say exactly the same thing I did, but only used twice as many words... :lmao:

:jester:

 

[69hemibeep]

Removing the Lower control arm bushings is a job. I used a torch and burned the rubber out and then put a hack saw together with the blade to the inside and cut the metal sleeve to remove it. I'm sure you will get some other methods suggested. Also the biggest mistake made on assembly, leave the lower control arm nuts loose until the car is on the ground and completely finished with the torsion bars adjusted so the car has all its weight on them before tightening. Otherwise the bushings are in a bind and will tear as the car settles on them, you will drive your alignment guy nuts as to why your ride height keeps going down. It will have to be done on a lift I had my alignment guy torque them.

So you managed to say exactly the same thing I did, but only used twice as many words... :lmao:

:jester:

And at the same time, when I hit submit yours bounced me out and I had to hit submit again. And as slow As I type I had to much time into it to hit delete In reality I started my reply ahead of you so move over big guy :lmao:

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Watch for the LCA tubes in the K frame to be busted loose. Seen that a bunch.

Pipe wrench will get the upper ball joint out.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Removing the Lower control arm bushings is a job. I used a torch and burned the rubber out and then put a hack saw together with the blade to the inside and cut the metal sleeve to remove it. I'm sure you will get some other methods suggested. Also the biggest mistake made on assembly, leave the lower control arm nuts loose until the car is on the ground and completely finished with the torsion bars adjusted so the car has all its weight on them before tightening. Otherwise the bushings are in a bind and will tear as the car settles on them, you will drive your alignment guy nuts as to why your ride height keeps going down. It will have to be done on a lift I had my alignment guy torque them.

So you managed to say exactly the same thing I did, but only used twice as many words... :lmao:

:jester:

But Bob's made so much more sense........ :acme:

 

[69hemibeep]

[quote="ACME A12":2jm40w65]

Removing the Lower control arm bushings is a job. I used a torch and burned the rubber out and then put a hack saw together with the blade to the inside and cut the metal sleeve to remove it. I'm sure you will get some other methods suggested. Also the biggest mistake made on assembly, leave the lower control arm nuts loose until the car is on the ground and completely finished with the torsion bars adjusted so the car has all its weight on them before tightening. Otherwise the bushings are in a bind and will tear as the car settles on them, you will drive your alignment guy nuts as to why your ride height keeps going down. It will have to be done on a lift I had my alignment guy torque them.

So you managed to say exactly the same thing I did, but only used twice as many words... :lmao:

:jester:

But Bob's made so much more sense........ :acme:[/quote:2jm40w65]
Ray is a blue blood, he talks in general terms then has on of his staff take care of it. That's why I made coffee every morning :jester:

 

[ACME A12]

But Bob's made so much more sense........ :acme:

Ray is a blue blood, he talks in general terms then has on of his staff take care of it. That's why I made coffee every morning :jester:

:lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

 

[moparchris]

Removing the Lower control arm bushings is a job. I used a torch and burned the rubber out and then put a hack saw together with the blade to the inside and cut the metal sleeve to remove it. I'm sure you will get some other methods suggested. Also the biggest mistake made on assembly, leave the lower control arm nuts loose until the car is on the ground and completely finished with the torsion bars adjusted so the car has all its weight on them before tightening. Otherwise the bushings are in a bind and will tear as the car settles on them, you will drive your alignment guy nuts as to why your ride height keeps going down. It will have to be done on a lift I had my alignment guy torque them.

What?! No picture? You have really become a disappointment in your old age. :acme: