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Trans and Rear Axle Questions

JJRJR

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Hi,

How can I tell what rear gears are in my project car? Is it stamped someplace? Also, what is "Sure Grip" and how can I tell if the car has it?

As part of my rebuild, I'll likely get about 450 HP from the 383, which has a 4 speed. Will the original tranny and rear be able to handle the power increase? Is there a heavy duty clutch anyone can recommend for build up motors?

Thanks,

John
 

droptop

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There will be a tag on one of the bolts that hold the center section in that tells the gear ratio. If that is gone, the numbers will be stamped on the ring gear. A quick way to tell if you have a sure grip or not is to jack up both wheels and turn them. If they turn in the same direction, it is a sure grip. If not, it is an open.
 

69hemibeep

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The only sure way to figure the ring an pinion is to pull the center section and its stamped on the ring gear, if it were unmolested the tag on the outside would tell you. You can get a pretty good idea by counting the number of turns the drive shaft makes compared to one turn of a tire in the air, this will also let you know if you have a shurgrip because both tires will rotate the same direction with one.The sure grip is either set up with clutches in the carrier or cones, the clutch type is the preferred unit due to the fact that freshening it up requires a new clutch pack vs the cone I have heard can be saved with some machine work. If you still have the 23 spline a833 4spd they are pretty tough but ma mopar put an 18 spline along with a Dana 60 rear end in behind the 440 and Hemi 4spds. Along with the 23 spline 4spd the 8.3/4 rear is pretty tough. If your going to the track with slicks on a regular basis I would upgrade with 450hp or wait until you have to, with an auto the rear is fine. As far as performance clutches I will defer to the masses, I haven't used one in some time :cents:
 

69hemibeep

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droptop said:
There will be a tag on one of the bolts that hold the center section in that tells the gear ratio. If that is gone, the numbers will be stamped on the ring gear. A quick way to tell if you have a sure grip or not is to jack up both wheels and turn them. If they turn in the same direction, it is a sure grip. If not, it is an open.
:toetap: Mine took longer to type
 

SomeCarGuy

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You can count the turns of the wheel versus the driveshaft to get a close idea on your ratio.

There are several good clutches. You can get a McLeod, Centerforce, etc. CF is good for street use as it has low pedal effort.

What are the specs of the 383 build?
 

droptop

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69hemibeep said:
droptop said:
There will be a tag on one of the bolts that hold the center section in that tells the gear ratio. If that is gone, the numbers will be stamped on the ring gear. A quick way to tell if you have a sure grip or not is to jack up both wheels and turn them. If they turn in the same direction, it is a sure grip. If not, it is an open.
:toetap: Mine took longer to type

Blabber fingers.... :lmao:
 

69hemibeep

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droptop said:
69hemibeep said:
droptop said:
There will be a tag on one of the bolts that hold the center section in that tells the gear ratio. If that is gone, the numbers will be stamped on the ring gear. A quick way to tell if you have a sure grip or not is to jack up both wheels and turn them. If they turn in the same direction, it is a sure grip. If not, it is an open.
:toetap: Mine took longer to type

Blabber fingers.... :lmao:
:toetap: :toetap: :toetap: P.P. Ray will like that one Harold :lol:
 

JJRJR

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Hi, I'm going to stick pretty close to the article from Mopar Muscle called "383 Resto to Rad" that they printed a few year ago. Instead of the Mopar Performance M1 intake, gonna use an Edelbrock Perfomance RPM intake. Also, looking to get either Edelbrock Performance heads or have some machine work done to the existing heads, not sure which is best. Any thoughts?

At the end of the day, if I can pull 450HP or more from the old gal, I'm happy as a clam.

Best,

John












SomeCarGuy said:
You can count the turns of the wheel versus the driveshaft to get a close idea on your ratio.

There are several good clutches. You can get a McLeod, Centerforce, etc. CF is good for street use as it has low pedal effort.

What are the specs of the 383 build?
 

SomeCarGuy

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Sounds like that will do what you want. The Eddys have a lot more potential and the cost to machine the OEM heads don't make them that much more. Running them OOTB is a roll of the dice. Having them checked over by getting them checked over at the shop you buy them from is usually worth it, and ported a bit if you have the coin. Dwayne Porter would be a good choice to at least call and get a quote.
 

moparchris

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A stock head will support 400hp no problem, if you want more then that its an expensive hump to get over.
 
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