Treating that dreaded corrosion...in the trunk that is!

W

woodwiz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
524
Reaction score
391
Location
Tucson,Az.
I have some of that dreaded surface corrosion on the trunk pan.Just wondering if in this modern day we have a spray or sealer to encapsulate it or treat it?? It's not the real bad cancer. The car is in a extreme dry environment now!
 
For some strange reason it looks and feels like the original floor with that factory finish they put on some of the metal back in the day.Could just need a little wire brush action and then maybe a undercoat spray. This car is done getting any more moister in the trunk being's it's a Arizona car now. I just heard along time ago that depending on the severity of the rust found that it can be encapsilated with that spray(done right) and stop any further growth or at least really slow it down. Anyone else have expierience with this issue?
 
East wood sell's stuff to stop rust. But it need's to be cleaned really good. Then spray some kind of over coat on it.
 
Mine was rusted pretty bad when I bought it in'14. After cleaning it up I used Chassis Saver and then rattle caned it to match the color. So far so good.
 
I found this stuff at Paintscratch.com It might be what you are talking about Chassis saver,spray it on and it suspends any more growth of rust and then you can spray it with anything else.
 
Rust converters and encapsulators are very common these days and I don't believe any one product dominates the industry. All require at lest a wire brush to get to a solid surface to truly last.

So here is my personal preferences from experience:

1. Eastwood Rust converter followed by Epoxy primer then topcoat if its visible and I have time to do it (the converter has to sit for 48 hours to work).
2. If its not visible, then I use Rustoleum Rust Converter (spray can). Its cheap and works pretty well if topcoated. Generally for brackets and such where pretty is not a key requirement.
3. If its inside something (rail etc.) Eastwood Internal Frame coating (it used to be called something else) but it is very thin and seeps through and is heavy zinc content. Not for looks at all, leaves an ugly mess if it seeps out so careful.

I have tried POR-15, Silver Bullet, and the above as comparisons and that is what my preference is based upon. Others may disagree and I respect that.

RGAZ
 
Just got done applying the cheap stuff after using the rust stopper from Scratch. A couple of days in between of course. Forgot to mention this stuff went only in the trunk. I’m going to let it cure real good then put the pad back in it and close the lid on that.
 
When the new quarters were put in it some 15yrs ago do they weld these in top to bottom then get out the body filler(bondo) and smooth it all out? Does the new quarter get welded in at the seam where the quarter meets the rear deck?

FDA168BE-320E-43BB-AFB4-4448A1EE9796.jpeg
 
Yes it meets the filler panel. Then goes up to the roof line where the sail panel and quarter meet. What they did is what a lot of shops do. It is not as much work as replacing the hole quarter. You will have to take it loose from where the roof over laps it. Cut down the window channel. Then the corner filler will be replaced also. Take the trunk drip rail loose. Tail light bucket will be taken off. Cut out around the finder. It goes all the way to the door latch pillar. It is a lot of work. So you can see why they cut into the line on the out side and stich it in so to speak. IMG_0101.JPG
 
woodwiz said:
I have some of that dreaded surface corrosion on the trunk pan.Just wondering if in this modern day we have a spray or sealer to encapsulate it or treat it?? It's not the real bad cancer. The car is in a extreme dry environment now!
Click to expand...
The best I've found is POR 15
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top