Treating that dreaded corrosion...in the trunk that is!

Body, Interior and Trim

  1. woodwiz

    woodwiz Well-Known Member

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    I have some of that dreaded surface corrosion on the trunk pan.Just wondering if in this modern day we have a spray or sealer to encapsulate it or treat it?? It's not the real bad cancer. The car is in a extreme dry environment now!
     
    Russ69Runner likes this.
  2. Plybeep68

    Plybeep68 Acceleratii Incredibus

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    How bad? Any pics?
     
  3. woodwiz

    woodwiz Well-Known Member

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    For some strange reason it looks and feels like the original floor with that factory finish they put on some of the metal back in the day.Could just need a little wire brush action and then maybe a undercoat spray. This car is done getting any more moister in the trunk being's it's a Arizona car now. I just heard along time ago that depending on the severity of the rust found that it can be encapsilated with that spray(done right) and stop any further growth or at least really slow it down. Anyone else have expierience with this issue?
     
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  4. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    East wood sell's stuff to stop rust. But it need's to be cleaned really good. Then spray some kind of over coat on it.
     
  5. Ranger

    Ranger Well-Known Member

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    Mine was rusted pretty bad when I bought it in'14. After cleaning it up I used Chassis Saver and then rattle caned it to match the color. So far so good.
     
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  6. woodwiz

    woodwiz Well-Known Member

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    I found this stuff at Paintscratch.com It might be what you are talking about Chassis saver,spray it on and it suspends any more growth of rust and then you can spray it with anything else.
     
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  7. RGAZ

    RGAZ Member

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    Rust converters and encapsulators are very common these days and I don't believe any one product dominates the industry. All require at lest a wire brush to get to a solid surface to truly last.

    So here is my personal preferences from experience:

    1. Eastwood Rust converter followed by Epoxy primer then topcoat if its visible and I have time to do it (the converter has to sit for 48 hours to work).
    2. If its not visible, then I use Rustoleum Rust Converter (spray can). Its cheap and works pretty well if topcoated. Generally for brackets and such where pretty is not a key requirement.
    3. If its inside something (rail etc.) Eastwood Internal Frame coating (it used to be called something else) but it is very thin and seeps through and is heavy zinc content. Not for looks at all, leaves an ugly mess if it seeps out so careful.

    I have tried POR-15, Silver Bullet, and the above as comparisons and that is what my preference is based upon. Others may disagree and I respect that.

    RGAZ
     
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  8. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    Have used a many of can's of the Rust Oleum converter also.
     

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