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TTI guys...

mjoyner408

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i am looking at the TTI 1 7/8" headers and there 3" exhaust. anyone running that setup? all the side notes make me worried. what is your setup if you are running this and what kind of mods did you do to make it fit.
 

george68hemirr

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mjoyner408 said:
i am looking at the TTI 1 7/8" headers and there 3" exhaust. anyone running that setup? all the side notes make me worried. what is your setup if you are running this and what kind of mods did you do to make it fit.

the only thing you might have to do is ball peen the primary slightly for starter clearance and on the passenger side when i had my blow proff bellhousing was to grind alittle of the bellhousing for clearance....you will be very happy with TTI
 

mcmopar

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I've got a 4 speed trans and the 1-7/8" tti headers and full 3" exhaust and could not be happier with it. The headers cleared the stock bellhousing with no issues and I never had to peen anything for clearance. I didn't even have to lift the engine for clearance. Me and moparmoose (Jerry) got them in from the bottom after I removed the spark plugs. I left the exhaust studs in place (they were all the short ones) and after rotating the steering wheel to get the pitman arm out of the way on the driver's side and then the idler arm on the pass side the headers went right up as pretty as you please. I mean they were on in seconds!
Later on I went to a Lakewood scattershield and had to do some trimming on it to get it to fit but that wasn't too hard to do. I still have the template to show what needs to be removed and where if anyone ever needs it.
You'll like the tti exhaust system if you decide to get it too. It bolts right up without too much hassle. Honestly - you can do it by yourself if need be.
 

zupanj

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I have tti all the way with 2 1/4" headers and 3" exhaust on a hemi. Everything fit well and went together just as it's supposed to. A little bit expensive but I would do it again.

Jack
 

mjoyner408

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it looks like real nice stuff. i have jba shortys on my 5.9 ram and i never had 1 ounce of trouble with the 3/8" flange. i know there are some cheepies out there but i do not want to have the usuale header trouble. i think i am going to go super bling with the polished ceramic so i was hoping not to have to peen anything! thanks for the replys. which muffs do ya'll have? any sound bites?
 

george68hemirr

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mjoyner408 said:
it looks like real nice stuff. i have jba shortys on my 5.9 ram and i never had 1 ounce of trouble with the 3/8" flange. i know there are some cheepies out there but i do not want to have the usuale header trouble. i think i am going to go super bling with the polished ceramic so i was hoping not to have to peen anything! thanks for the replys. which muffs do ya'll have? any sound bites?
flow master.....she really sounds bad
 

zupanj

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I have Dynomax Super Turbos as well. Not as loud as the Flowmasters which is why I got them. They have a real nice sound and don't drone on the highway.
 

mjoyner408

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yeah... what he said. i was thinking of doing 50 series flowmasters. i like the sound but i was hoping the 50's would get rid of the harshness and drone the 40's have.
 

mcmopar

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The cam is a Comp XE275HL-10. Timing values are: 231/237 @ 110 lobe separation w/.525" lift on intake and exhaust. I am using 1.6 ratio CAT aluminum roller rockers which pushes the lift up to .560". You should hear it at highway speed. It sounds extremely sweet!
 

george68hemirr

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:worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: ......WOW...YES
 

roadrunner69

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Thanks. What comp you running? I have the 509 in mine but can't get
the jetting right, no vacumm plus the engine is probably worn out and
no compression. When I rebuild the eng I have not decided to leave that
came in there and put some 11.5 slugs in it or change the cam. I want a
good lope. I have a 4sp and 4:10 gears. No racing just a head turner.
 

mcmopar

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This cam is a low vacuum cam as well. I'm getting about 9-10hg at idle but it seemed to work with the power brakes before I put a vacuum canister on it. Shortly after I got it all set up I was noticing the power brakes were having problems so I put a Jeg's vacuum canister on it thinking it would clear up the problem - it didn't. Turned out to be the new power brake booster I had bought at Autozone. A quick replacement later and everything was working fine once again. I decided to leave the vacuum canister on since I had already drilled 2 holes in the pass side inner fender to mount it. :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:
You'd like this cam I think. It has enough timing to work well with your 4.10 gears and is fairly docile at low speeds. I can putt around town at 30 mph in 4th gear with my 3.55 rear gears. Mileage isn't all that bad in town (about 8 mpg) but highway mileage is only around 11.5 mpg even with the 3.55's. Of course, with 4.10 gears you probably won't be doing much highway cruising! I still need to tune my Holley 750 - or rather have a dyno tune done since it seems to run rich on the idle circuit. A check of the plugs reveals the power circuit jetting is right on the money, though (75's up front IIRC - can't remember the rears - somewhere around 78 I think). It has been modded for 4 corner idle and it really smooths out the idle and makes it mellower than a standard primary only idle circuit carb.
I'm running an old set of TRW L2293 domed forged pistons (rated at 11:1 CR with open chamber heads) by a previous owner who built this engine. It had a set of '67 closed chamber 915 heads on it when I bought it and pinged like crazy. No wonder - the CR was up somewhere in the 12:1 range! Jim Fitzpatrick (classracer) worked a set of 452 heads for me (2.14" intake/1.81" ss exhaust valves and opened up the chamber a little more by unshrouding the valves a bit) we estimate the CR to be about 10.5:1 since the piston deck is about .020" down the bore and I used thick (.039") Victor head gaskets.
If you go with the 11.5:1 CR pistons you'd better get the Edelbrock open chamber aluminum heads to help you run todays 93 octane slop. Otherwise you'll be adding a lot of octane booster (Max Lead 200 works very well). I finally got mine to run on 87 octane gas by fiddling with the timing. It still runs very strong but I do have to be careful not to lug it out of a light or it will ping at me. 89 octane would probably solve that little problem but I'm too darned cheap to pay the extra $$$ for it. :crazy:
 

roadrunner69

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My vacumm now is only around 3 at idle. Mine is so rich it smokes and
will burn your eyes bad. I have done everything I can do to lean it out
but no help. Just need to go thru the eng. I figured with the 11.5 and
906's or 452's and thick gasket the comp be around 10. No power brake
or anything. Plus I have to look at I am leaving the manifolds on so that
throws another kink in things. I know the 509 is way to much for manifolds
and it likes at least 10.5 and up on comp. But it does sound good idling.
 

mcmopar

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Your compression will be more than 10:1 with a zero deck height on the piston. You can't drop 1.5 points in compression with just a thick head gasket and an overbore. If the pistons are rated at 11.5:1 CR with an open chamber head you're going to be up around 11:1 easy. I'd suggest a set of 9:1 pistons with valve reliefs in them installed at zero deck height (top of the piston flush with the top of the bore), then you can mill the heads a bit and get it up to 9.5:1 which is great for as cruiser.
That 509 cam should not be showing 3hg of vacuum. Where are you taking your vacuum reading - from the vacuum port on the carb or at a manifold source? If you are taking it from the vacuum port on the carb then something is seriously wrong. You have a severe vacuum leak. Also, you definitely need to go through the carb. BTW what make and model carb is it? If it is an Edelbrock you'll definitely be having problems if your vacuum is that low because your metering rods will be operating improperly and causing your rich condition.
For a cruiser I always recommend this cam: http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=720&sb=2
Its the Comp "Magnum Muscle" cam (grind # 268AH-10). The timing specs are:
222 degrees intake duration @ .050 (268 degrees advertised)
226 degrees exhaust duration @ .050 (276 degrees advertised)
110 degree lobe separation (for that nice choppy idle sound you are looking for)
lift on intake and exhaust is 0.464"
This is a nice upgrade from the stock cam, yet not so big as to be unpleasant in around town driving. If you installed a set of 1.6 ratio rockers your lift would go to 0.495" and you'd probably get about 8 more hp or so. This cam will produce around 12hg of vacuum or better I'm guessing. I have conteplated making the switch to this cam since I want more mpg on the highway. I figure 14 to 15 might be possible with this cam for my setup. It may not soundl like much of an increase (11.5 to 14) but it adds up quick when gas is at or above its present price.
 

ACME A12

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mcmopar said:
This cam is a low vacuum cam as well. I'm getting about 9-10hg at idle but it seemed to work with the power brakes before I put a vacuum canister on it. Shortly after I got it all set up I was noticing the power brakes were having problems so I put a Jeg's vacuum canister on it thinking it would clear up the problem - it didn't. Turned out to be the new power brake booster I had bought at Autozone. A quick replacement later and everything was working fine once again. I decided to leave the vacuum canister on since I had already drilled 2 holes in the pass side inner fender to mount it. :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:
You'd like this cam I think. It has enough timing to work well with your 4.10 gears and is fairly docile at low speeds. I can putt around town at 30 mph in 4th gear with my 3.55 rear gears. Mileage isn't all that bad in town (about 8 mpg) but highway mileage is only around 11.5 mpg even with the 3.55's. Of course, with 4.10 gears you probably won't be doing much highway cruising! I still need to tune my Holley 750 - or rather have a dyno tune done since it seems to run rich on the idle circuit. A check of the plugs reveals the power circuit jetting is right on the money, though (75's up front IIRC - can't remember the rears - somewhere around 78 I think). It has been modded for 4 corner idle and it really smooths out the idle and makes it mellower than a standard primary only idle circuit carb.
I'm running an old set of TRW L2293 domed forged pistons (rated at 11:1 CR with open chamber heads) by a previous owner who built this engine. It had a set of '67 closed chamber 915 heads on it when I bought it and pinged like crazy. No wonder - the CR was up somewhere in the 12:1 range! Jim Fitzpatrick (classracer) worked a set of 452 heads for me (2.14" intake/1.81" ss exhaust valves and opened up the chamber a little more by unshrouding the valves a bit) we estimate the CR to be about 10.5:1 since the piston deck is about .020" down the bore and I used thick (.039") Victor head gaskets.
If you go with the 11.5:1 CR pistons you'd better get the Edelbrock open chamber aluminum heads to help you run todays 93 octane slop. Otherwise you'll be adding a lot of octane booster (Max Lead 200 works very well). I finally got mine to run on 87 octane gas by fiddling with the timing. It still runs very strong but I do have to be careful not to lug it out of a light or it will ping at me. 89 octane would probably solve that little problem but I'm too darned cheap to pay the extra $$$ for it. :crazy:


THREAD HI-JACK...

John, any word from Jim on my 906s? Just curious....

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming...

:jester:
ACME
 
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