Voltage & Amps

[Ranger]

Well today was resurrection day. She was a bit obstinate and I had to adjust the choke, but she finally lit. Took her out for a drive and I noticed the volt gauge pegged at 16v. The factory amp gauges was also near pegged, but then they'd drop and bounce back. A few times I even noticed the tack bouncing around.

Figured it was the voltage regulator so I checked the service manual. Hard to understand it, but I tried a "manual adjustment" (slight bending of the contact spring tab). I think I have it staying around 13v when running the RPM up to about 3500, but I won't know for sure until I drive it again.

Speaking of the Tach, does 3300 RPM sound right at 60 MPH with 15" wheels and 60 series tires on the back with a 3.23 rear end? When I used an online calculator I came up with (and expected to see 2600 at 60 MPH).

The tach is a Sunpro SST802R 3-3/8" Retro Super Tachometer

 

[Mopar Vince]

Danger!!!!

DANGER!!!! - READ THIS NOW!!!

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

For my 2-cents I would immediately Bypass the factory dash charging system gauge unless you are SURE it has been recently restored or converted to volts.

These factory dash gauges have burned down may a Mopar when the melt down. At a minimum be sure you have a good Fusible link to take the load if it were to ever short out.

Check out this low buck conversion alternative: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?8368-Family-Tradition/page54

 

[Big John]

DANGER!!!! - READ THIS NOW!!!

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

For my 2-cents I would immediately Bypass the factory dash charging system gauge unless you are SURE it has been recently restored or converted to volts.

These factory dash gauges have burned down may a Mopar when the melt down. At a minimum be sure you have a good Fusible link to take the load if it were to ever short out.

Check out this low buck conversion alternative: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?8368-Family-Tradition/page54

I've been screwing with these cars since they were new.... and have owned many and drove many of them into the ground as regular drivers.

Never, ever, saw one burn from the ammeter.

 

[Mopar Vince]

I guess I was just unlucky.

I guess I was just unlucky.
Here is my experience.
Half way off the trailer smoke began pouring out of the dash as the amp gauge went to ground on the $500.00 small block 70 B-body Belvedere I was bringing home.
Apparently at some point someone had hard wired it through the fire wall and didn't put the fusible link back in line.
By the time I rolled back far enough to get out of the car and disconnect the battery because the trailer fender had me stuck in the car; the damage was done.
Melted my gauge cluster down.
Once the magic smoke gets out of the Mopar wiring harness and dash cluster its hell putting it back in.
Not a very nice smell either.
Luckily this one was a $500.00 parts car and not one that I had spent a bunch of money and time on.

I don't think I am the first one this has happened to.

But maybe I was just unlucky.

 

[Big John]

The key phrase is "hard wired it through the fire wall and didn't put the fusible link back in line"

When people don't do things right, you can expect those consequences.

This isn't to say that bypassing the ammeter is a bad thing.... However, my preference is to run a wire from the battery connection on the alternator (with proper fusible link wire) to the starter relay. That bypasses the ammeter to charge the battery and therefore you don't have as much current flowing through the ammeter. The current through the firewall plug and the ammeter is going to be less... and the ammeter won't show as much "movement".. but it still functions to show charging and discharging.

Either way, a volt meter is a great addition.

 

[Big John]

Back to the original post...

A good solution to regulator issues is to install a Wells VR706 electronic regulator (available at Advance Auto etc.). Plug and play to replace the mechanical regulator.

 

[Ranger]

OK, so I took it for a ride today after adjusting the regulator and she never went above 14v, even while cruising at 3500 RPM, so I think that's fixed.

The factory amp gauge is original.

 

[Ranger]

RPM update:

Turns out the selector switch was set to 6 cyl. There goes another punch in my dumbshit card.