What do you think of the Hughes cam going into my 383 RR

[nicanor]

I talked with Kevin at Hughes and this is the cam he sent me with the springs and lifters. What are your thoughts?

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Category : Big Block 383-361-400 (Low Deck) : Camshaft : Flat Tappet, Hydraulic : Muscle Car


HUG HMC2942BL-7


383/400 MUSCLE GRIND CAMSHAFT

WHIPLASH SERIES FLAT TAPPET HYDRAULIC CAMSHAFT

$215.00




Whiplash Series Flat Tappet Hydraulic Camshaft Drop in Muscle Car Cams. Want that mean 60's & 70's muscle car lope without doing a complete rebuild? You need one of our muscle car cam.

No machine work, leave the heads on, raises cylinder pressure. Ground on true .904" cam lobes. This gives you max area under the curve. Has low lift to clear guides.
SHAKE, RATTLE & RUN!!!!
You can feel your car transforming!!!


These HMC cams have bad-to-the-bone idle, very quick stop light to stoplight acceleration! Idles like a funny car but smooths out above 1600-1800 RPM.

These cams are designed to drive better than the sound would imply. These are killer cruising cams made for low compression (8:1-8.75:1) engines and are designed so the cylinder pressure will not be reduced (Torque Killer!) like other cams of this size or type.

Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .518"
.518"

Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .552"
.552"

Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050" 229°
242°

Lobe Separation Angle 107º

Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050" 10.5° BTC
51° BBC

Intake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050" 38.5° ABC
11° ATC

Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI

Sweet Spot RPM 1800-5200

Thanks,
Barry

 

[moparchris]

That has a lot of exhaust duration!! I bet it works good with stock exhaust manifolds.

 

[nicanor]

That would be great because I don't plan on using headers at this point. Maybe after the car is done and the engine is right, I'll build another monster motor for the car and save this engine.

Thanks for the feedback.

Barry

 

[ACME A12]

I don't recall you saying that you know which pistons are in your engine. Make sure your engine machine shop/mechanic checks the valve to piston clearance just to be sure. You're probably ok if this thing had a MP .509" in it, but you're better safe than sorry.

:jester:

 

[SomeCarGuy]

That cam will do what you want.

Make sure to degree it in or pay to have that done. Cheap and easy now, not so much later. Will be something to rule out later when you have anissue. If not, you will have to open up the engine and your wallet to check things out.

 

[mcmopar]

That cam will do what you want.

Make sure to degree it in or pay to have that done. Cheap and easy now, not so much later. Will be something to rule out later when you have anissue. If not, you will have to open up the engine and your wallet to check things out.

Agreed. While a high quality double-roller timing set should be on the money (mine was - we degreed it in and it was spot on) it is always best to check it before buttoning everything up. Install the cam (or have someone do it for you) per the manufacturer's recommendations and you will be good to go.

 

[moparchris]

That cam will do what you want.

Make sure to degree it in or pay to have that done. Cheap and easy now, not so much later. Will be something to rule out later when you have anissue. If not, you will have to open up the engine and your wallet to check things out.

Agreed. While a high quality double-roller timing set should be on the money (mine was - we degreed it in and it was spot on) it is always best to check it before buttoning everything up. Install the cam (or have someone do it for you) per the manufacturer's recommendations and you will be good to go.

I am not a pro engine builder or anything but I have changed my fair share of cams and I hav found 3 cams so far the were ground wrong!! One of them was in a friends car that wouldn't do a burnout despite being a 440 A body! So we tore into it to change the cam as we thought maybe it was too big, at the last minute I suggested we check the cam timing and valve events just for our own knowledge and sure enough it was wayyyyy off. Ended up replacing the cam anyways and the Duster ran 11.20s at 116 and never had a problem with doing burnouts again! :cents: