What do you think of this combo?

[MuscleCar91]

Hey guys,
been awhile since I've visited, just been busy lately...
Anyways, What do you guys think about this combo in my auto 69' satellite.
440ci
KB Hypereutectic pistons 10.1
ported 452 heads
Edelbrock Torker intake
Duration 282/292, Lift .465/.488
Hooker Super Comp headers with 3" exhaust
MSD blaster coil/dist
850 double pumper
The engine builder suggested that cam since it's mostly a street car but seems like it could use more lift? What do you guys think it would run with slicks and decent gears?
Thanks,
~Nick

 

[69hemibeep]

:bump:

 

[george68hemirr]

perfect......355 gears

 

[moparchris]

More cam, please. Something in the .600 lift and 260 degree duration @ .050 lift. That will go nicely with your ported 452s and if you go solid flat tappet it will be very streetable. Lopey but streetable. Also minimum 3.91 gear and 3500 stall converter. If the heads are done well by a pro then expect in the 550 hp range which will put your 3500 pound Runner deep deep in the 11s on a sticky tire.

Ooops I missed the original question and gave you my opinion which isn't what you asked for. Sorry. So the answer to the original questions is.........mid to low 12s. The cam will hold you back, but your carb/ intake selection is excellent.

 

[mcmopar]

Hey guys,
been awhile since I've visited, just been busy lately...
Anyways, What do you guys think about this combo in my auto 69' satellite.
440ci
KB Hypereutectic pistons 10.1
ported 452 heads
Edelbrock Torker intake
Duration 282/292, Lift .465/.488
Hooker Super Comp headers with 3" exhaust
MSD blaster coil/dist
850 double pumper
The engine builder suggested that cam since it's mostly a street car but seems like it could use more lift? What do you guys think it would run with slicks and decent gears?
Thanks,
~Nick

What is your intended use? More race than street? More street than race? Once you define what your intended purpose for the car is you can then build accordingly.
That wouldn't be a bad cam for a mild 383 buildup but its too small for even a street 440. With your combo a hotter cam is needed. Now if you plan to race more than street it, Chris' cam choice would be good. If you want better street performance you should check with Comp or Hughes Engines for a good dual purpose cam designed for Chrysler engines. The XE285HL-10 or XE295HL-10 from Comp would be fine choices. The 285 would be a good street more than strip choice, while the 295 would lean more the other way. Or check into some roller lifter designs if you want all-out performance. They are expensive but well worth the price.
Don't forget to get some good rocker arms for this build. You don't even want to put the stockers back in there. Get some good roller rockers - don't skimp here. And while you are at it get the cam kit with the springs, retainers and locks recommended by your cam manufacturer.

As for the intake - the Torker is a bit dated but still adequate. You could step up a tiny bit with an Edelbrock TM-7. The TM-7 will rev higher than the Torker which tops out at about 5500 rpm. There are better choices out there. For a good street/mild strip engine the Edelbrock Performer RPM can't be beat. The Mopar Performance M-1 single plane intake is also a good one.

 

[ACME A12]

Nothing like a good cam/intake thread to make Johnny McMoPar come out of hiding... :basketcase:

 

[mcmopar]

Been working a lot lately. I'm back in the saddle again in a big way. I've been at the new job for a month now and am jamming some OT. I get paid salary so I don't get the hourly bump but that's ok by me. I've got my plotter up and running at work and they love being able to get a full-sized plot done in-house. I've also been upgrading my computer already. When I put it together I bought a 25" monitor. It's nice but after seeing the 28" monitors I knew I had to have one so this past Saturday I went to CompUSA and bought a HannsG 28 on sale for $259.99. Normally they go for $309.99. I just couldn't pass it up. Man, is it nice! I use both the 28" and the 25" in dual monitor mode. It seems crazy but the 28" monitor dwarfs the 25". It is pretty amazing comparing the two side by side.

 

[MuscleCar91]

Thanks guys,
The car is a street car. It doesn't see the track a whole lot (Hope that changes). With the way gas is going I won't be driving it every day anyways so it isn't a huge deal to me. I do need it to handle nicely on the road. I don't really think a stall conv is needed at the moment maybe down the road.
(MoparChris) Don't apologize I like what you said in your original post. It would be nice but something to think about later on.

MCmopar: I'm calling it a street/strip. Mostly seeing the street, car show once or twice a month and a handful of runs a year. The engine already had the torker on it so I figured it will work for now. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I did ask the engine builder about a bigger cam. He didn't think I wanted a big cam being it is on the street and was aiming towards low rpm tq. but he sent me a link to this cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL21-227-4/

 

[moparchris]

Thats better. I would shy away from a hydraulic flat tappet though, most HFT cams have poor drivability a solid or hydraulic roller are light years better. Since you dont drive it daily you would have to adjust the valvetrain once a year. When I build my motors I strive for the max power my compression and cylinder head will allow so I am usually pretty agressive with my cam choice. I also really like the sound of a car with a big cam and will live with any short comings for better power and sound. I have to say that the motors in my past that had over .600 lift actually had the best drivability.

 

[MuscleCar91]

Thats better. I would shy away from a hydraulic flat tappet though, most HFT cams have poor drivability a solid or hydraulic roller are light years better. Since you dont drive it daily you would have to adjust the valvetrain once a year. When I build my motors I strive for the max power my compression and cylinder head will allow so I am usually pretty agressive with my cam choice. I also really like the sound of a car with a big cam and will live with any short comings for better power and sound. I have to say that the motors in my past that had over .600 lift actually had the best drivability.

Thanks,
I did not know that. All I know is it had a solid and we decided that wasn't the best choice for me. I thought they were more work. I agree I love power and big cams so I don't blame your choice in .600 lift but I just don't know, he though it would kill my drivetrain and need to upgrade my stuff but if it breaks thats fine lol. I'll look into a Hydraulic roller with similar specs. I believe he just had the heads done so would we run into problems with redoing the seatings.

 

[mcmopar]

If the Torker was on there, go with it! Nothing like a "free" intake. I used one way beck in the late 70's on a very mild 440 along with a small Holley 600 and it got decent gas mileage with good low-end torque.
Since it is a mild street setup a good cam to consider might be a Comp or Hughes flat tappet hydraulic cam with durations of 230-240 @ .050 and lifts in the .520 - .540 range or a milder roller lifter cam. Chris is right about the new oils and flat tappet cams. I use synthetic oil with my flat tappet cam and have had no problems so far (knock on wood) but I add some zinc additive just to be on the safe side.
That 850 Holley Double Pumper is going to be a gas guzzler but will run very well! Since the Torker is an efficient single plane intake you could get away with using a 750 vacuum secondary carb, but if the 850 was already on the car there isn't any use in splurging for a new carb.

 

[moparchris]

Thats better. I would shy away from a hydraulic flat tappet though, most HFT cams have poor drivability a solid or hydraulic roller are light years better. Since you dont drive it daily you would have to adjust the valvetrain once a year. When I build my motors I strive for the max power my compression and cylinder head will allow so I am usually pretty agressive with my cam choice. I also really like the sound of a car with a big cam and will live with any short comings for better power and sound. I have to say that the motors in my past that had over .600 lift actually had the best drivability.

Thanks,
I did not know that. All I know is it had a solid and we decided that wasn't the best choice for me. I thought they were more work. I agree I love power and big cams so I don't blame your choice in .600 lift but I just don't know, he though it would kill my drivetrain and need to upgrade my stuff but if it breaks thats fine lol. I'll look into a Hydraulic roller with similar specs. I believe he just had the heads done so would we run into problems with redoing the seatings.

Solids can be a little more maintenance but you wont regret it. The power is well worth and extra hour of work once a year. As far as your drivetrain, you have a 727 and an 8 3/4 IIRC, so you will be good there no worries. The last motor I built for someone else was a mid 500 hp 440 pump gas motor with a .590 solid. It made over 500 lb ft from 3000 on up and is a tire melter. It ildes at 900 rpm with over 12 inches of vacuum. Its in a restored Charger that the owner was convinced that it was too radical. After driving it for a few months he was hooked and agreed that the motor was perfectly driveable with great manners. There is nothing worse than putting a ton of money into a motor only to be disappointed in its performance. If you are going to go with a small hydraulic, dont waste your money porting your heads. You will be wasting a lot of money for little to no performance increase. :cents:

 

[metalstorm]

if you use those pistons while you have the heads off polish the chambers with a scotchbrite disc and sanding roll and that will help with pump fuel,chamber flow/quench and lower the cr a 1/2 point maybe.i opened mine to 95 cc.

 

[Basketcase]

mlne had a Torer on lt wlth a Holley when bought. great for me.

 

[4spd69RR]

Looks good, however, I had a cam with similar duration 282/292, Lift .465/.488 installed in my older runner. You might want to check what torque converter you have and change it if you are using the stock converter.

 

[MuscleCar91]

Well alittle update. I decided to pass on the 440 for now. But while I was on spring break two weeks ago I bought a 68' 383 and 727. I tore into it a little looks like it has a forged crank, 906 heads but mostly stock with about a grand in March billet parts . I'm wondering whats the best way to go with this engine to get some power?

Btw: When looking at Distributors, RB ones will fit fine on B engines right? One of those things in case I ever get a 440... oh and I want an electronic one over a manual, correct?

 

[69hemibeep]

Well alittle update. I decided to pass on the 440 for now. But while I was on spring break two weeks ago I bought a 68' 383 and 727. I tore into it a little looks like it has a forged crank, 906 heads but mostly stock with about a grand in March billet parts . I'm wondering whats the best way to go with this engine to get some power?

Btw: When looking at Distributors, RB ones will fit fine on B engines right? One of those things in case I ever get a 440... oh and I want an electronic one over a manual, correct?

Sorry the distributors are different in length. The cheapest way to get power is a 440, but that said you have the option of more stroke for more displacement or keep the stock crank and build a high rpm 383 which I like. More ideas will chime in

 

[MuscleCar91]

Thanks, for some reason I though that a RB distributor would fit both RB and B blocks. But a B distributor was to short to fit a RB block.
Here is what I am tossing around my head. From what I am guessing it's a forged crank and if the bottom end is in good shape and can handle the power. To build a strong top end: Aluminum heads, valves, rocker arms, headers, intake, cam and carb. Then later on build a stroker short block that can use the parts.

 

[MuscleCar91]

I know how everyone likes pictures, so here are some.

 

[69hemibeep]

The pulleys and brakets are sweet!