She Runs TOO HOT.

Hi George, yea, I think that's what's ultimately going to have to happen. I'll need to get a thinner radiator, but I'm tired of worrying about it.

What radiator, fan and shroud are you running??

John
 
what are you using for a temp gauge? nothing like a manual for piece of mind.
 
Basketcase said:
what are you using for a temp gauge? nothing like a manual for piece of mind.
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Actually using an aftermarket under-dash gauge with oil pressure and volts included in the cluster. I thought about changing the gauge, but the motor really does seem very hot.
 
is the temp gauge electric or manual? I've had electric gauges read extremly hot, and a quick glance at the manual shows all is well.
 
Basketcase said:
is the temp gauge electric or manual? I've had electric gauges read extremly hot, and a quick glance at the manual shows all is well.
Click to expand...

Excuse my ignorance, but I really don't know. I assume it's manual because it's a pretty basic set of aftermarket gauges that I think plugs into the engine, but I'll ask my builder.

I just can't believe a 26" 4 row aluminum with twin 12" electric fans isn't keeping this thing cool.

J
 
look at the back of the water temp gauge...are there just wires, or does it look like this....if it has a heavy cable coming out the back, it's a manual.


water_temp_mech.jpgwater_temp_mech.jpg

water_temp_mech.jpg
 
Basketcase said:
look at the back of the water temp gauge...are there just wires, or does it look like this....if it has a heavy cable coming out the back, it's a manual.


View attachment 9203View attachment 9203
Click to expand...

Hey Basketcase, where did you mount this in your Runner? I have electronic gauges under the dash that I'd like to leave in place, but did you mount this someplace you can suggest? I already have a big tach on my steering column.

Thanks,

John
 
I have a triple gauge cluster under the dash..IIRC they make up to four gauge sets. and you should be able to get just the gauge bracket.
 
You can always swap the electronic water temp gauge for a mechanical one.
I'd bet the same manufacturer probably make both so you could have a matching set.
I'm running the same as Basketcase, but a different brand.
I prefer mechanical water temp & oil pressure gauges.
 
Have you tested your thermostat? I had an overheating problem a while back that I couldn't solve. Finally, I removed the new 190 degree thermostat that I had previously installed and tested it in a hot water bath. It wouldn't open. I bought another one and it wouldn't open, and another & finally the 4th one passed the function test. Good thing I replaced a perfect good water pump!
 
I lerned that working in a parts store..just because a part is new, doesn't mean it's good.
 
WOW! 1 out of 4? I always thought thermostats where pretty reliable. Can't recall the last time I had one fail.
 
never had a new one fail either, but with all the off shore crap stocking the shelves these days....
 
OK Guys. Finally had some time to start the motor and let it get hot and check up on a few things. TURNS OUT that only 1 of my 2 12" electric fans actually comes on. I need to mess around with the wiring to figure out what happened. Maybe dumb question, but I have to assume that if only one of the fans works, that would account for an over heating issue in traffic; without the benefit of the highway wind speed? ALSO, is it advisable to leave the electric fans running after the engine shuts off until it comes down to temp or is that just eating my battery with no real benefit?

thanks and Happy labor day.

John
 
I really do not have much electric fan experience but for what its worth, all new cars have them and they do not run when the car is off. Air movement is a great thing but killing a battery isn't. I would assume if all of the radiator is cooling it may help. Is smaller pulley to spin the water pump faster to move coolant an option? I know a big block I had with factory air had a smaller pulley with a clutch fan letting the pump spin faster. Just an idea.
 
Running the fans with the motor off will somewhat cool the radiator, but the coolant is not being circulated so I see no real benefit. The motor cools fairly quickly after shut down anyway, at least mine does.

FWIW, my car was running hot (especially in stop & go traffic). I replaced the 190 thermostat with a 180 and added a fan shroud (factory fan & radiator. No electric fans). Haven't seen it go above 200 on a 90 degree day (in traffic) yet.
 
JJRJR said:
I had the same exact problem with the 383 I removed for the 505. So, the common denominator is the cooling system

It's a brand new Champion Aluminum 4 Row 26" radiator, with twin electric fans, I think 12" fans. I'm running straight water with No-Rosion added here in South Florida.

At highway speeds, it's about 205 to 210. Get onto the side roads and it gets up to 250.
Click to expand...
Is there any chance those fans or the blades could be installed backwards?

I do not want to use a pulley driven fan.
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Maybe it would be worth a try.
Perhaps the fans are disrupting more air flow than they are providing. Just grasping at straws here.
 
Is the water pump working as it should. Sometimes the blades wear down in the impeller and it just doesn't pump enough water.
 
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