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727 Shift Points

RR383

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To whom and where would you recommend I go to have a complete diagnosis and tune-up? Are the old school mechanics that were taught by Chrysler still around? Don't even know if I would trust any of the local Chrysler dealerships around here...its a new day in time.
 
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stevo

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I agree with you what ever you do, do not take it to a dealership!
 

droptop

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There are a few of the old times left out there. The original owner of my GTX is still a mechanic at our local Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep dealer. You just have to know before you go.
 

RR383

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The ole' trans needs a good tune-up or rebuild or both. This car has 98K original miles on it. Unsure of what the intended service life (mileage) of an original '70 727 was. Shifts real hard (almost like it had a shift kit installed) and varied. I'm starting to think this is allot of my performance problems or in this case lack of.
 

69hemibeep

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I would ask local mopar people who they like for transmission work. Any local mopar drag racers in your area ?
 

RR383

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Loudon, TN just a few miles southwest of Knoxville. Might you have a lead for me?
 

RR383

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Hoping to get a lead or two from the Mopar gang while attending the all Mopar event on June 25th here in Knoxville, TN.
 

Coyote

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Maintenance Is Not Beyond Most Folks

If you know which end of a screwdriver to pound on you can try a quick trans adjustment/tune up. The net can help with actual specs on band adjustment. That and the time involved in pulling the pan bolts if you don't have a power wrench are the hardest to do. You'll need an INCH pound torque wrench. That is the only unusual tool.

Go with a fluid and filter change, you may be amazed at the difference. I've seen cop cars from back in the day that I thought would need a rebuild work perfectly for another 50,000 miles of severe usage.

The possible DOWN side is that if the fluid has never been changed the fresh fluid can knock loose deposits that can plug stuff up and require a rebuild. :beep:
 

RR383

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:blue:
If you know which end of a screwdriver to pound on you can try a quick trans adjustment/tune up. The net can help with actual specs on band adjustment. That and the time involved in pulling the pan bolts if you don't have a power wrench are the hardest to do. You'll need an INCH pound torque wrench. That is the only unusual tool.

Go with a fluid and filter change, you may be amazed at the difference. I've seen cop cars from back in the day that I thought would need a rebuild work perfectly for another 50,000 miles of severe usage.

The possible DOWN side is that if the fluid has never been changed the fresh fluid can knock loose deposits that can plug stuff up and require a rebuild. :beep:

I appreciate your input...every car guys dream is to have access to or flat out own a full garage style hydraulic lift. Then auto trans work would be a breeze no doubt. And yes I've poured over the u-tube vids on the ole 727 old and new and from them I believe I will put my car in the hands of an ole salt that back in the day busted his knuckles wrenching on these cars.
Believe me when I say I'm not afraid of maintaining those things that I have a better than average knowledge base...but these transmissions with their associated linkage were crude at best. Frankly...at this point I'm reluctant and having second thoughts of ever purchasing an auto car vs. the 4 speed version with the roadrunner. This '70 model 383/727 is my first and not fully convinced this particular configuration had any dominance back in the day. What I didn't hear in my early quest to find one of these cars is that the 440 six-pac was THE one to own bar none!:blue:
 
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Coyote

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Hang in there! Crude they may be, but they flat out WORK! That's one of the reasons the RR & Super Bee's were such a value. Ma MOPAR put the good fleet/cop car stuff they already had into their intermediate bodies and gave true value for the bucks involved! If you think the linkage on the automatics is bad, wait until you get a load of the clutch linkage on the manual cars. Thank goodness they put floor shifts in 'em or you'd really be reading about grief trying to make column shift stuff work to grab a gear!

You have a real RR, just think of the poor folks out there tooling around in minivans that can only dream of what you have.
 

RR383

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I believe my RR is haunted. I tried something a few hours ago. I removed the second spring off the accelerator and test drove the car. MAN...what a difference that made. The throttle is a whole lot more responsive the car seems stronger and pulls allot harder. The throttle didn't feel smooth from the pedal with the second spring....just to much. So...now we drive and it and see what other surprises are in store. Hoping there are none.:very_drunk:
 

Coyote

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Whoa!

I believe my RR is haunted. I tried something a few hours ago. I removed the second spring off the accelerator and test drove the car. MAN...what a difference that made. The throttle is a whole lot more responsive the car seems stronger and pulls allot harder. The throttle didn't feel smooth from the pedal with the second spring....just to much. So...now we drive and it and see what other surprises are in store. Hoping there are none.

DON'T trust just one throttle return spring. If you have to, get two slightly weaker springs. The safety factor is super important! All race sanctioning bodies require two springs for a very good reason. The last thing in the world you need is to break the only one and have the throttle stick open. That's one of those non-habit forming vices!:soap::rules:
 
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RR383

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Who's drag racing here? Stock original set-up (1) spring. But good advice.
 

quikbird

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Stock came with two springs, one inside the other one I think. I think they were two different colors also.
 
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