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My front disc conversion journey (painfully long)

billccm

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Hi All:

My first post here, and probably my longest post.

Back in January, 2017 I finally found after a four year, 5 state search a 68 Road Runner. it's pretty much a driver and for sake of discussion it has solid bones, fairly good paint, perfect interior, and very solid, strong 383 auto.

I did not get much test drive time on the car before I bought it, but for what little I drove it it was very good, EXCEPT for the manual drum brakes. I knew going in to the purchase the brakes needed some attention.

I tried to save the drum brakes and go with a musclecarbrakes.com solution, but the front drums were out of tolerance for turning, so I took the plunge into a front disc conversion. I had converted my Charger back in 1993 to front disc and had three guys helping me turn the wrench. it was a fun, easy, two weekend job. I used Wilwood, and was not impressed and my stories from that are a post for another day.

So, forgetting that I'm 24 years older than the last time I tackled a disc conversion, and ignoring the fact that I don't have any wrench help like I used to, I went forward.

Afetr a month of reserach, and lots of input over at For B Bodies Only, I took everyone's advice and bought the Dr Diff conversion kit. It seems to be 'reasonable' in quality, but probably not as good as Wilwood. Time will tell, but for now, I'm at the point of no return and moving ahead very slowly with the Dr Diff kit.

According to the paper trail, my Road Runner had an entire front end replacement in 2011, and about 5K miles ago. Everything looks new steering wise. The only problem I really encountered is getting the old steering knuckles/spindles off, which took hours and hours and broke a extractor tool in the process.

The front brake lines were rounded off before my ownership, and the lines at the proportioning block were so frozen that I decided to just cut them off.

The show stoppers have been:

1) I did not know the bearing races in the rotors were different than the Dr Diff bearings races. That took a trip to my local brake shop and begged and pleaded with then to swap the rotor races for me. They did and no chnarge even, but I gave the mechanic a $10 bill.

2) The rotor shields were poorly drilled and required some filing to get proper fitment.

3) I'm waiting on brake lines from IN LINE TUBE.

What do I have so far:

1) Master Cylinder is off.

2) One rotor is on.

I also bought new rear wheel cylinders. EVERYTHING that flows brake fluid will be NEW.

So, lengthy post, but pretty much were I am now.

Question: Should I proceed with rotors and caliper mounting? Should I go ahead and bench bleed the master cylinder and install?

Thanks for any advice, moral support, or sympathy!

Have a nice day, Bill
 

quikbird

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Bench bleed master cylinder, I used stainless steel brakes for mine and it went great. Did not have to change spindles at all. Sounds like are on the way so keep it up, you'll get there.
 

69hemibeep

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When using stainless it is a good idea to seat the fitting back it off and seat it again. It is hard metal.
 

billccm

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Although I did not plan on wrenching on the Road Runner this weekend, I could not keep away from the car. My In Line Tube order arrived today, and I had to at least try to finish off the passenger side.

Routed and contorted and contorted some more the brake line that runs across the firewall to the passenger caliper. Went easier than I thought (finally something to do on this car that does not take hours and hours).

Ran into a small delay getting the rubber hose to seat into the clip mount at the frame. When I took the drums off, there was no clip on this side for the rubber hose. Didn't give it much thought at the time. Now I know why there was no clip. The mount tab at the frame was slightly bent such that the hose would not seat into the mount. I took a LARGE vise grip and just kept clamping the tab to get it as flat and planar as possible. This worked to an extent as the hose would seat, but a slight wave in the tab made placing the clip on the hose slot impossible. Took a small solder assembly bench vise and clamped/squeezed/pressed some more. Finally got the clip on.

Followed In Line Tubes instructions on seating the line nut to the hose.

The passenger side disc conversion is now complete!

Have other commitments this weekend and my other vehicle needs some maintenance (Grand Marquise), so no more MOPAR wrenching for me until next weekend (unless I find a few minutes here and there to bench bleed the master cylinder).

Wish me luck. Next step is complete the drivers side conversion. Then porpotioning block mounting and master cylinder install. Last step is replace lines to the rear, and install new Raybestos wheel cylinders.

Thanks for listening! Have a great weekend.
 

Coyote

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Looks "good to go". Just fight your way through it, take your time, this is NOT a project to cobble on. Cars gotta steer and stop! My Satellite conversion was from Right Stuff. It was a very straight forward swap with factory stuff, just a lot of work. My '55 has had two different conversions on it, the first from Danchuk (pretty much stock later GM stuff). I upgraded it to a Wilwood and could not be happier. The earlier Danchuk conversion is now on a fellow club members '55. We had it on in a moderately easy couple of days. It helps that I'm not afraid to fabricate/flare brake lines (and had already installed it once). If something is not going right, walk away and come back later. It's supposed to be a fun car, not a must have daily driver. GOOD LUCK!
 

billccm

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I'm heading out to the garage now. My plan for today is to get the driver's side rotor and caliper mounted. Should go easy, but I have said that before.

QUESTION: I've got the car's front on jackstands. I only have two jackstands. Should I (one of the following)

1) Buy two more jackstands (at O'Rielly). Carefully jack up the rear and have the car on all four jackstands.

2) Get the front tires on and on the ground. Chock the front wheels. Get the rear on jackstands.

3) Have the car flatbedded to the local brake shop and and let them finish the job. This option has occurred to me quite often.

I have rear wheel cylinders. Next step would be to remove and install the rear hard lines and wheel cylinders.

Thanks for any advice. Take care, Bill
 

billccm

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I'm heading out to the garage now. My plan for today is to get the driver's side rotor and caliper mounted. Should go easy, but I have said that before.

QUESTION: I've got the car's front on jackstands. I only have two jackstands. Should I (one of the following)

1) Buy two more jackstands (at O'Rielly). Carefully jack up the rear and have the car on all four jackstands.

2) Get the front tires on and on the ground. Chock the front wheels. Get the rear on jackstands.

3) Have the car flatbedded to the local brake shop and and let them finish the job. This option has occurred to me quite often.

I have rear wheel cylinders. Next step would be to remove and install the rear hard lines and wheel cylinders.

Thanks for any advice. Take care, Bill
 

quikbird

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Get more jack stands. Harbor freight heavy duty ones work fine. Now have access to entire underside of car to redo line to rear and do your wheel cylinders. Always shake car hard to make sure not going to fall off stands, especially when you are under it later.
 

Coyote

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Bingo!

Get more jack stands. Harbor freight heavy duty ones work fine. Now have access to entire underside of car to redo line to rear and do your wheel cylinders. Always shake car hard to make sure not going to fall off stands, especially when you are under it later.

:yeathat:

(One of the few times i agree with him!)
 

billccm

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Thanks. Long story for another pots, but I'm not a Harbor Freight kind of guy.

I bought a set of ACDelco jack stands at O'Rielly that were 50% off sale priced at $14.99. Car is up on all fours. Next weekend new rear wheel cylinders, and plumb back to the proporting block.

Might have my car on the road in two weeks!!!!
 
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