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It's much better than the alternative!
I'm still above dirt
Swapped rear wheel cylinders tonight. Removed the brake line Tee and cleaned up.
Plan for tomorrow is to install the remaining brake lines. Any tips, tricks, or advice on routing the long line from the front to the back?
Wish me luck!
Keep it out of harm's way on the inside of the frame rail and as far as you can get it from moving parts/shocks/springs,etc. Mount it securely with the hold downs close enough together to keep it tight to frame. You're almost done, it'll be worth the time and grief! GOOD LUCK/ENJOY!
Well I'm done for many days. It seems InLine Tube sent me the incorrect lines for the rear. If you look at the pictures, these are my last three remaining lines. The big line looks like it goes from front to back, okay, but the last two lines will not connect from the rear wheel cylinders to the Tee.
I called InLine Tube, and read one of the part numbers, and he said "...yes, that looks like a front line...". Then I was really bummed when he said eBay orders support are email only, and they won't answer your email 'until Tuesday'.
I just noticed InLine Tubes eBay feedback; 99.3% positive. I assume that is really good over 3,000 sales, but in the last 6 months 13 negative and 11 neutral. Seems they ship incorrect parts from time to time.
What really worries me is I read the feedback that their customer service is really bad and long waits for email replies.
They sent me power brake lines when I ordered manual but they quickly corrected that and told me to keep the others.
We get most of our stuff from right stuff. It is here in town and can drop buy and pick it up.
At least you didn't get the right stuff detailing kit, I made that mistake, and have swapped out just about everything so for, keeping the new spindles, and will be putting on drilled slotted rotors this summer. I could not stand their booster is was a ford or gm version of crap called up pirate jack.com and got hooked up with the correct bendix booster, RSD master cylinder cover even leaked would not seal for shit, so bad I had to buy another one just for the stinkin cover! lame. then the stock looking lines to the calipers would not seal and leaked, had to get the stainless steel ones from summit racing. If I had to do it all again I would either call PST or pirate jack and get their kit no other one is worth a shit.
It may be a little late, IMO, it's easier to get tubing, tubing cutter, bender, flaring tool kit, assorted fittings and fab your own. If one is doing a nut and bolt resto, the preformed kits may be worth the grief and money. If one wants it to function, do it yourself! Completing one car will pay for the tools and you've got a new skill too. It is not hard, just take your time and plan ahead. If the old lines are still there, one can pretty much use them as a pattern. Again, just my .02.
InLine Tube did reply, and I have to say I'm happy (although I probably won't have the lines for next weekend). Reply below:
"Bill, the long line is the front to rear line for the car. The other 2 lines are a second set of right and left front lines and not rear axle lines. We apologize and will have the pair of lines out by tomorrow for you. Thank you!"
Well their is no petty for mechanic's. It a tough job but someone has to do it. In the old day's use to jack up one wheel at a time and do the brake job. Look's like your almost their. I thought of changing to disc brakes but going to stay with drum. Can get new drum's cheap enough. I figured they worked for year's. I guess that it is easy to change disc pad's done many. But drum's really aren't that hard. Well wish you the best what I see looks real good. Russ. :cartman: where is all my buddy's when I need them?
All brake lines are installed. Master Cylinder installed. I could be driving the car, but leaving the brake pedal disconnected until I get the switches and dimmer back from the rebuild guy. That switch pod is so difficult to get in and out I need that brake pedal out of the way.
Wish me luck. Might be on the road next weekend.
If you want to see some very amateur videos of my disc conversion journey see the links below:
My daughter is having fun trying to be 'creative' with the videos.
So, Wilwood it is for my kit purchase? Also has anyone used drop spindles? I see PerformanceOnline sells 2" drop spindles and I'm thinking I would like that look. Any opinions appreciated.
I will run the Wilwood disc brake conversion kit, but keeping the stock spindles, sorry that I couldn't help..
drop spindles may not really be needed. torsion bar front suspension is very simple to move up and down to where you want it.