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Clutch replacement

RKNRLR

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Anybody ever slipped in an after market clutch? Mine is in the way out, so thought I'd look at some upgrade-level clutches, seeing as though Ive had a penchant for "spirited driving" lately.

Have looked at summitracing and they've got a few Mcleod racing and RAM automotive stuff ranging from a couple hundred bucks to almost a grand. Not real familiar with either brand.

Any tips or recommendations appreciated!
 

TOMRR

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32621027_1913698015320680_5010980675440869376_n.jpg I went with a 11 inch McLeod in my 69 RR , works great 475HP 500FT TORQUE
 
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69hemibeep

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I have a Mcleod in mine and like it. It had a Ram before, borg and beck style real stiff pedal
 

quikbird

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answer depends on your specifics. what is horsepower and torque level of engine, how aggressive are you driving? I run a McCloud twin disc because I burned up three clutches in a short time and the pedal strength needed to get a single disc to hold was pretty big. twin disc works great and reasonable leg power needed. single disc would hold if less power. have also used Hayes in the past as well
 

Russ69Runner

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I got a three prong pressure plate. Instead of the fin type. We found they where weak tended to burn the clutch. Never had a double clutch in our street drag car's but figure they are more heavy duty. Think summit would steer you rite. :beep:
 

RKNRLR

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was looking at this unit on summit, as it was one of the only ones I could find to fit my 143-tooth flywheel.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mcl-6911-05/overview/

My engine dynoed at 530 hp, 600ft-lbs. putting down around 450hp. I like to drive it more aggressively than most RR owners would, but I do drive a fair bit on the street too. Took it From sydney to melbourne and back last week.

I feel like the clutch was already on its way out, but a few burnouts (in a controlled environment of course) sure didnt help.
 

RKNRLR

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any major difference to the mcloud RST? spec says the RST is good to 800hp, more than enough for this application i think.

Summit has the RXT 6923-05 listed as fitting 130 tooth flywheels only, and good to 1000hp. Maybe a bit of overkill in my case. Also didnt want to change my flywheel unless absolutely necessary
 
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Russ69Runner

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Wonder if the double clutch gives you trouble putting the transmission in. Got a double clutch in a tractor and it is a bitch to get the plates to line up on the splines. Had to turn and turn the fly wheel shake the trans. With two of us got it to go together. Well that is what I have experience in on double clutches. Good luck and be safe Mate. :thumbsup:
 

quikbird

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Line up tool will set the discs. Fits inside the bell housing with no issues, so no change to tranny position. Installs same as usual.
Your right, mine is an rst
 

Coyote

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I heartily recommend the RST. I had one in my Tri5 behind Blueprint 454 smallblock brand “c”.

Dynoed: 575 hp/560 lb ft. No problem to fit in Lakewood scattershield. Comes with alignment tool.

Also have one in my Mopar with a Quicktime, not running yet.

After Qbird had his clutch issues I learned from his errors!:poke::beep:
 

RKNRLR

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The only difference i can see between the 2 is the RXT has metallic surface material (RST is organic), which I imagine is a little bit bitier.

The mcleod website however states that the RST "is designed to be a high horsepower street clutch kit and is not designed to be used in a competition environment."

I take it the RXT will take a better beating at the track, but how much driveability am i really losing? the price difference is not that much between the 2, but I'd hate to put it in and go "i wish i put the other one in".

Mcleod website still promises smooth engagement with the RXT, just wondering if anyone has put one in, or knows of anyone else who has.
 

RKNRLR

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Line up tool will set the discs. Fits inside the bell housing with no issues, so no change to tranny position. Installs same as usual.
Your right, mine is an rst
Ended up going with the RST twin disc also. Highest horsepower rating with organic lining, so should shift smoothly.

Just having an issue with the install.
Every couple of times pressing the clutch the bottom release bearing clip pops off the fork. We have tried 3 release bearing and although 1 has been clearly better then the other 2 it still has popped off ( possibly because it’s a twin plate in needs a different size release bearing?)

We have removed the z bar and bushes are fine but z bar slides sideways freely (i.e during clutch depression), not sure if this is normal operation. While watching underneath, during the last part of the pedal stroke the fork twists and this seems to be what’s causing the popping off. Also the fork visually appears fine

If anyone has had any similar troubles, any help would be much appreciated!
If we're doing something completely wrong, also happy to be corrected!
 

quikbird

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Don’t think z bar is supposed to be moving much side to side. That would change the alignment to the clutch fork I would think.
I use a hydraulic throw out and haven’t had any issues. Have to do some math to get the clearance correct
 

RKNRLR

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Don’t think z bar is supposed to be moving much side to side. That would change the alignment to the clutch fork I would think.
I use a hydraulic throw out and haven’t had any issues. Have to do some math to get the clearance correct
how can i stop the lateral movement? had it pinned pretty good with the old clutch, but since the new install its abit loose
 

quikbird

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There should be a couple clips that keep the end of the ball studs from sliding in the bar. Make sure they are correctly installed. That should stabilize the z bar
 

Russ69Runner

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So is the fork it self twisting or where it is connected to the bell housing. Might put it to the people you bought the clutch from and see if they have an answer. Sounds like a simple problem. Hope some one else knows the answer. Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
 

RKNRLR

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There should be a couple clips that keep the end of the ball studs from sliding in the bar. Make sure they are correctly installed. That should stabilize the z bar
have so far only been able to locate one, whic hstops it going one way, but cant find anything that stops it going the other way.

If anyone has got any photos, might help a bunch.
 

RKNRLR

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Finally an update!

After much heartache and problem solving, finally got the bird home. New McLeod RST twin plate. Also new Z-bar, pivot, fork, bearing... Its not much fun living this far away, and discovering every week that another small piece of the puzzle is required. Pretty much every piece I needed had to be shipped from the US, as there is not much stuff available locally. And what there is on the shelf is wayyy $$$$-y. In hindsight, for such small inexpensive items, I would just order the entire assembly straight off the bat.

Gotta say, as far as the clutch is concerned, the pedal feel is much lighter, and the pedal travel is also much shorter. The new clutch is very grabby, but not as bad as I thought it might be. Definitely realised how bad the old one was now that the new unit is in.

Have put a few miles on it now, gonna head on down to the strip on Wednesday night and try and bust out some 12's.
 
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