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Very nicely done! A good addition to this discussion would be the significance/benefits of "switch to ground" vs. "load to ground" circuits as they apply to properly placed loads.

Electronic systems work great, but I’ll take a good dual point over electronic any day.

Sounds good Steve, I still have your number, I'll give a shout Saturday morning....

You bet! I'll be there Saturday mornin' … is there a rendezvous point? Would be great to see you guys!

Hi Bob

FYI: Rally dash was standard on 68-70 Charger/Superbee, and 70 Road Runner/GTX. It was optional on 68-70 Coronet RT. Tach was optional regardless of model/dash choice. Hope I got that right....

The 40-50K valuation for an in-tact, unmolested, & untouched survivor is in the ballpark IMO. Especially when you consider desirable paperwork & options.

That's funny right there! I've seen creative tags before, that's a good one! The only part of the VIN that appears on a 1968 data tag is the first 4 characters. The six digits on the lower right corner are known as the shipping or order number (incidentally, on the MSO, its also combined with...

Didn't want to give the wrong info, so I confirmed with a good buddy (who is an excellent resto resource) and he says 60% gloss black. The rustoleum semi-gloss spray bomb is a perfect match...hope to make it this year ...good luck with the car!

Hey Steve & Bill - I'm 50/50 at this point...If I make it, it will probably be Saturday....I hung around Steve's 'Cuda last year for a while hoping to say hi, but the folks there said he was out chasing women....:lol: Beautiful car BTW! How about you guys? Bringing your cars?

In 68, the VIN only appears on the dash tag, engine, & trans. So your first challenge is to mate the data tag with the VIN. This can only be done with a build sheet, window sticker, or MSO (manufacturers statement of origin) since those documents will have both numbers (shipping & VIN)...

Hi Bob

If you don't like points & preserving stock appearance is your goal, Pertronix is the way to go. The system is reliable & installation is simple. Be sure to follow the included schematic diagram EXACTLY. I have had to replace a few orange boxes over the years, but have never had to replace a...

Big John is correct....and so was I. Lets not confuse the mechanically actuated secondary throttle plate with the air valve that lives above it. Even with the secondary throttle plate open, airflow through the secondary throttle bore is regulated above it by a counterweighted air valve, or an...

Sorry if I was not clear: I was attempting to differentiate between the vacuum-actuated secondary throttle plate of the Holley, and the mechanically-actuated secondary throttle plate of the Carter. I did not mean to imply that the Edelbrock was an AVS style carb.

AVS style carb used on your car was mechanical - as should be your Edelbrock. The Holley had vacuum secondarys. The Edelbrock carb is pretty "turn key" out of the box. Stumble/bog could be any number of things. Be sure to check for vacuum leaks, spark issues, fuel delivery, distributor...

Well I checked my books and the Holley was used with 4 speeds too. There happens to be a 4 speed 70 Super Bee on Ebay right now with a Holley. Engine shot is real good...item number 182010516104.

Looks like 42 equals a Holley according to my book...see if Bob agrees...Here is a survivor pic....

Holleys were used sparingly on 383 Road Runners and Super Bees in 1970. Not sure, but I would venture to say maybe less than 25%? I've participated in a few discussions on this topic over the years and the only thing that I have been able to conclude is that it did not seem to matter if the car...

Your desire to return the engine to its correct original configuration is to be applauded. You say this is your first MOPAR, so let me offer this: When they were new, they kicked ass - period. In stock form, the 383 was a high revving torque monster right out of the box. Sure adding bolt-ons...