383 Block

[Collin]

After running the numbers on the 383 that came in my car, I have found that it is a '65 block instead of a '69. Is this going to cause me any problems as far as compatibility with other parts? Do I have to cater all of my parts to a '65 block instead? I have heard that they are the same block, but I just wanted to make sure.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

After running the numbers on the 383 that came in my car, I have found that it is a '65 block instead of a '69. Is this going to cause me any problems as far as compatibility with other parts? Do I have to cater all of my parts to a '65 block instead? I have heard that they are the same block, but I just wanted to make sure.

I think the only difference is the main bearings. I could be mistaken here. I'm sure everything else will fit fine.

 

[ACME A12]

Gary, I'm pretty certain all B-Engines share the same 2.625" main journal diameter. RB-Engines measure 2.750" - maybe this is what you're thinking about... Rod journal diameter on any of them is 2.375".

I don't think you have anything to worry about Collin. Load 'em up...

:jester:
ACME

 

[Hoosier Bird]

The only reason I say that is because when I bought the new bearings for mine they asked if it was after 65, I think. :huh:

 

[ACME A12]

The only reason I say that is because when I bought the new bearings for mine they asked if it was after 65, I think. :huh:

Interesting...now we'll have to do some digging... :cheers:

:jester:

 

[mcmopar]

I have read that you'll have to specify the year of the engine when ordering pistons. Don't know exactly why that would be but I do remember reading that in one of my older (1990's era) magazines. I'll do some digging to see what I can find.

 

[ACME A12]

I just did a search (Summit Racing - used their "compare" function) on all of the available B-Engine main bearings. Only odd-ball 383s were the '59 - '60 RB version. Everything else fit all years...

:jester:

 

[Hoosier Bird]

I just did a search (Summit Racing - used their "compare" function) on all of the available B-Engine main bearings. Only odd-ball 383s were the '59 - '60 RB version. Everything else fit all years...

:jester:

And now we know........... :banana: :cheers:

 

[Collin]

The engine runs very well, I dont think I will have to do a major overhaul (FINGERS CROSSED!!) Mostly will be a tear down to paint, reseal, put the new Carter AVS (found the correct one for my car) and put back together! If I had all the money in the world, I would love to do the blower like the YearOne RR...I can dream!

This block should pull the same numbers as far as torque and HP as the 69? The block and heads are '65 and the intake is '69 along with the carb. Will I see a huge drop in numbers compared to the HP 383 Im supposed to have?

 

[Hoosier Bird]

The engine runs very well, I dont think I will have to do a major overhaul (FINGERS CROSSED!!) Mostly will be a tear down to paint, reseal, put the new Carter AVS (found the correct one for my car) and put back together! If I had all the money in the world, I would love to do the blower like the YearOne RR...I can dream!

This block should pull the same numbers as far as torque and HP as the 69? The block and heads are '65 and the intake is '69 along with the carb. Will I see a huge drop in numbers compared to the HP 383 Im supposed to have?

What are the last 3 digits in your head casting #?

 

[Collin]

Unfortunetly I havent commited these numbers to memory , I will look for you when I get home and post them up here.

 

[moparstuart]

After running the numbers on the 383 that came in my car, I have found that it is a '65 block instead of a '69. Is this going to cause me any problems as far as compatibility with other parts? Do I have to cater all of my parts to a '65 block instead? I have heard that they are the same block, but I just wanted to make sure.

are you sure its a 383 , they made a ton of 361's in 65 and they are almost identical ?

 

[dobie]

My original 383 motor was a '66 383 block. Before I had to find a new one, I don't remember being told that there were any differences between the two.

 

[mcmopar]

The only difference between the 383 and 361 is bore size. Stroke is the same IIRC.

 

[ACME A12]

The only difference between the 383 and 361 is bore size. Stroke is the same IIRC.

You recall correctly!

 

[Collin]

Ok so.... I have a Block dated 64....2468130 - 3 LL....matches 383 1959-71
Intake of 2806301 matches 383-4 1968-69, and heads of 2406516 383 1964-67.....at first glance I thought last 3 were 518, max wedge....but I was wrong....

I just want to make sure I get some power!! I know that the 69 383 was known for the 420 ft/lbs torque...just wanna make sure I get the same ride!

 

[mcmopar]

The 1st thing you need to do is ditch those 516 heads. True, they are closed chamber units but they only have 1.60" exhaust valves stock so you'd need to install the newer 1.74" valves and then do some extensive port work because 516's aren't known for their flow characteristics. The best stock iron heads to get would be the later model 452 castings simply because they flow better than the 516's, have 2.08" intake and 1.74" exhaust valves stock and have hardened valve seats from the factory. If you can't find a set of 452's then you can go with the 342 castings ('71-'72 - some of which have hardened valve seats) or 906's - but the 906's will require hardened valve seats to be installed for today's no lead gas. You could also go with the '67 440 head (I want to say 916 casting but I could be wrong on that) which was also a closed chamber head that flowed better than the older 516's but not quite as good as the 906. They would also need hardened valve seats installed but a little port work would improve them quite a bit and you would have the benefit of a half-point rise in compression from the closed chamber heads.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

The 1st thing you need to do is ditch those 516 heads. True, they are closed chamber units but they only have 1.60" exhaust valves stock so you'd need to install the newer 1.74" valves and then do some extensive port work because 516's aren't known for their flow characteristics. The best stock iron heads to get would be the later model 452 castings simply because they flow better than the 516's, have 2.08" intake and 1.74" exhaust valves stock and have hardened valve seats from the factory. If you can't find a set of 452's then you can go with the 342 castings ('71-'72 - some of which have hardened valve seats) or 906's - but the 906's will require hardened valve seats to be installed for today's no lead gas. You could also go with the '67 440 head (I want to say 916 casting but I could be wrong on that) which was also a closed chamber head that flowed better than the older 516's but not quite as good as the 906. They would also need hardened valve seats installed but a little port work would improve them quite a bit and you would have the benefit of a half-point rise in compression from the closed chamber heads.

That would be the 915 head instead of 916. Mcmopar is right on all acounts. If you are going to build a stock motor the heads won't be that big of deal but if you want to raise your hp a little then you need to upgrade. My favorites are the 915s, they flow equivilent to the 906 but with the closed chamber you can run a flat top piston flush with your engine deck and it will give you about a .039 quench. That is almost perfect for a very efficient combustion chamber. Run a cam with about 250 duration, that would put your dynamic cr to 8.5 and have a killer engine for the street. That would be a real torque monster.

 

[Collin]

Thanks Guys. :cheers:

 

[mcmopar]

Thanks for the correction, Gary. I even had a set of 915's on the road runner when I got it back but I couldn't remember the casting number. :loco:
As Gary said, the 915's are good heads. Just make sure your pistons have valve notches in them and you have hardened valve seats installed in in the heads.