'68 Grill & Trunk Panel Refinish

[dbc105]

can anyone give me good instructions on the best way to go about restoring the grill and the truck panel on my '68? I have seen some on EBay for sale that have been refinished but the price was way out of my range. I think the paint is available from Eastwood.

I also will need any instructions for dash refurbish. the clear plastic over the speedometer has these fine little cracks in it and I would like to convert the Amp gauge to Volts. Maybe install a tach in the blank spot on the right side.

Thanks for the help.
DC

 

[george68hemirr]

this is how i fixed my 68 grille and headlite bezels.....goodmark.....$359.00...and you have to admit it looks so much better[attachment=0:14euuru6]DSC00923.JPG[/attachment:14euuru6]and how i fixed my tail panel......ebay...$325.00....i have seen NOS with the paint peeling off for $800.00...that guy was nuts but if you want it bad enough you will buy it.....refinished ones are out there , you just have to keep looking.....eastwood does sell alot of stuff to restore what you have and even repair dented also....great place[attachment=1:14euuru6]DSC00921.JPG[/attachment:14euuru6]

as you can see the pics are in the wrong places...screw it

 

[Big John]

If the clear plastic part of the speedo is cracked, there isn't a lot you can do except replace it. The good news is they seem to be available used and usually not too expensive. The tach is probably best done with a repop. They go for around $225.

I'm looking into the voltmeter conversion for my own car and so far it looks a little "pricey" to have it done. I did see an article in Mopar Action magazine about doing the conversion yourself using an aftermarket guage and the old face. I don't have any specifics on doing one for the 68/69 dash yet, but its on my list of stuff to do this winter.

That said, I believe there is a way to convert ammeters to read voltage using a resistor in series with the ammeter... but my electronic knowledge is kinda rusty. Anyone know how to do this???

 

[Jim S.]

If the clear plastic part of the speedo is cracked, there isn't a lot you can do except replace it. The good news is they seem to be available used and usually not too expensive. The tach is probably best done with a repop. They go for around $225.

I'm looking into the voltmeter conversion for my own car and so far it looks a little "pricey" to have it done. I did see an article in Mopar Action magazine about doing the conversion yourself using an aftermarket guage and the old face. I don't have any specifics on doing one for the 68/69 dash yet, but its on my list of stuff to do this winter.

That said, I believe there is a way to convert ammeters to read voltage using a resistor in series with the ammeter... but my electronic knowledge is kinda rusty. Anyone know how to do this???

Never did it in a car but, they way you would make a ammeter read volts is: First you have to disconnect the shunt resistor which is basically a copper bar which is mounted internally in the back of the ammeter. It is a very low value resistor which is shorted across the ammeter's leads. Then you are right, connect a resistor in series with the positive lead. Most meters have full scale deflection of 1ma (.001A) and a coil resistance of 500 ohms. So if you are going to hook it up to measure batt. voltage, I'm guessing full scale should be 15 volts. This means center is 0 and all the way right is 15. Doing the ohm's law thing, this would put your resistor value at 14.5K. 15/.001 - 500 = 14,500 ohms. You don't need a high wattage resistor because the only current draw would be from the meter. 1/2 watt should do. You would just have to get used to where your ammeter needle sits for normal batt. voltage. Somewhere around 3/4 to 7/8 of full scale to the right. I'm going back to sanding my hood stripes, my brain hurts now......

 

[dbc105]

thanks for the help guys. George, the grill & bezels look good but I wanted to stay with '68 model stuff. I have polished aluminium before but nothing this light weight. the good thing is my parts are not dented, just dulled and the paint is mostly gone. I was hoping to fine someone that has painted the PLYMOUTH letters and made them look good. kinda like paint the letters on a pick up tail gate, they never look good.

Big John, if you run up on that article please relay the details here. I currently have the amp meter disabled. I changed the wiring on the charging circuit to get it to keep the battery hot. works good now.

Jim, I have an amp meter out of a old boat, I think I will try what you suggest to see if it will work on that gauge before trying it on the one in my dash. I have been looking at the tach area and wondered if I could mount an aftermarket there and have the blank face that is there now silk screened to look right. would be cool if it work out.

I have been around here from time to time lurking but I was able to finally find a car the way I wanted it so I will be participating a lot more now.

Thanks,
DC

 

[roadrunnerh]

How about some pics of your '68?

As far as restoring the finish panel, I sent mine to "AllTrim" and the owner Mike Voth restored mine including re-anodizing, polish, paint, decal. I still have it in the crate I used to ship to and from Oregon. Not putting it on the car until I have the cash to get it painted.
For $325 he did a nice job, but, be warned, the guy isn't very stable (actually tempermental and nuts if ya ask me).
AT one point when I was on the phone with him after he had my panel for 4 months, he threw a shit-fit and I thought he might bend the panel in half! I had to talk him down as if he was a mental patient. Not someone I would recommend, in fact, stay clear of this guy... :loco:

 

[george68hemirr]

How about some pics of your '68?

As far as restoring the finish panel, I sent mine to "AllTrim" and the owner Mike Voth restored mine including re-anodizing, polish, paint, decal. I still have it in the crate I used to ship to and from Oregon. Not putting it on the car until I have the cash to get it painted.
For $325 he did a nice job, but, be warned, the guy isn't very stable (actually tempermental and nuts if ya ask me).
AT one point when I was on the phone with him after he had my panel for 4 months, he threw a shit-fit and I thought he might bend the panel in half! I had to talk him down as if he was a mental patient. Not someone I would recommend, in fact, stay clear of this guy... :loco:

SOUNDS LIKE THIS GUY IS SNORTING TOO MUCH ALUMINUM :devil:

 

[dbc105]

I will get some pics uploaded this weekend. What I have is a '68 Satellite. It is QQ1 - blue that someone painted white, vinyl top that someone used GM material to replace, blue interior that has been redone in diamond tuck velour, power steering, power brakes, and a/c. it is a running, driving car. I drive it to work a couple of times a week, weather permitting. I have the a/c heater box out right now to replace the heater core. I also have a Road Runner hood in the basement for it. I am finishing up a Mustang SVO then I am going to move this one into the basement and start removing parts to refinish or replace.

DC

 

[Basketcase]

welcome DC, we like '68s too! and one more thing........ :jester:

 

[Basketcase]

check with Mac, he did a good job redoing his '69 grill.

 

[dbc105]

Here are a couple of pics. I had a blue '68 Road Runner when I was growing up and this is almost the same car except it is a Satellite. 383, auto, a/c, ps, pb. I have a lot to do but I have a good platform to start with.

DC

 

[Hoosier Bird]

I love it.........

 

[mcmopar]

You've got a nice, solid car to work with. Looks great!

 

[Basketcase]

that's sweet Hope you're keeping it a Satellite! Plymouthfan will be himing in when here finds out there's another car on the site with Dog Dishes!

 

[roadrunnerh]

Nice ride! What color are the roof and interior?

 

[dbc105]

the roof & interior are both blue as is the vinyl top. someone recovered the seats with a blue velour. the headliner is the same. while it is not the way I want it, it is in good shape and can wait till I get other things done before making any changes here. I will paint the doors back to QQ1 where someone painted them white. I ahve not run the numbers yet to see if the top should be white or black but it will most likely be black when I am done.

On the wheels, I plan to replace these with 15 x 8 Magnum 500s on all 4 corners with about a 255/60 x 15 and on the rear run spacers to bring the wheel/tire out just are far as possible without hitting the fender.

a few of other things I will change are the trans will be changed to a A518, I want to install an Edelbrock 2186/7186 with a Quadrajet carb(I used to race tune these so I know how to make one work, and Chysler did run one on the small block after the Thermoquad) until I can install fuel injection. It currently has a stock cast iron 4 barrel intake and the wrong AVS on it. The choke does not work as the linkage on the carb does not match what is on the manifold and the trans linkage does not fit right either. best part is I have a Quadrajet and a breather bottom that will work with the air filter top & pie pan. I think it was a 2 barrel car and someone put this stuff on. I already have cruise control off a Volare and I want to convert to power windows. if anyone has made any of these changes I would be interested in hearing about it.

DC

 

[Basketcase]

I've got 15X8s Magnums on my rear, and have 2756015s, which fit quite nicely.

 

[Roadcuda]

That's a nice lookin' car there! Oh, and Dave? I like dog dishes too!!!!! :devil:

 

[dbc105]

thanks for the compliments. is anyone going to be at the Music City Mopar Show Saturday? I am planning to drive up and take some pictures and look for parts.

DC