69 roadrunner Electrical problem

[Wildie]

No start with Key ,Jump the relay fires up + side of coil does not have 12 volts at cranking has like 3 volts ,put key on and jump out starter relay and starts starting to get stress out any help would be great

 

[Ranger]

So it cranks just fine, but only has 3v at the coil when cranking and gets a full 12v when jumping the relay. Is that correct?

If you remove and look at the back of the ignition switch, you'll see IGN1 and IGN2.
IGN1 is the run position and sends voltage through the ballast resistor to reduce voltage to the coil. IGN2 bypasses the resistor during cranking to give a full 12v to the coil for start up (which you don't seem to have). I'd check the switch, connections at the switch and at the bulkhead connector as well as the ballast resistor.

 

[TOMRR]

I had same issue ,Mine was the key switch !!

 

[Wildie]

Thanks i ran a new wire from back of switch ING2 to coil it started 1 time then same thing so it has to be bad key switch after market parts suck going to look for a better made switch

 

[Ranger]

If you want to verify the switch use a DVM and set it to continuity. The ones that emit a tone when you have continuity are the best. Put the black probe on the ground spade and the red probe on the IGN2 spade. When you turn the switch to the crank position, you should here the continuity tone. If you put it on the IGN1 spade, you should hear the tone when you release the key to the run position.

 

[Russ69Runner]

I am with you on the after market part's. It suck's not being able to get original part's. So I feel ya. after market. Take that and that.

 

[Terry Hauck]

Try TONYSPARTS.COM.
Expensive but original and tested.