69 runner, Honestly whats a fair price

[spoolinhard]

I have this for sale. i have not tried really hard to sell it, but I do want a different car, so I am motivated. I have recieved little attention on it, so I am guessing that it is too high in this economy.

1.What is a fair price that I could expect to sell it without giving it away?

2. I have been thinking about replacing the floors with full length floorpans, and putting new rear pans in it along with putting in the new cowl that I have for it, I am wandering what I could get out of it if I did this? Wondering if it will be worth my time and $ invested to pay off.

here is the car:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6742

thanks
-Kaleb

 

[Basketcase]

persoanly l don't think that's a bad prlce. mlght just be the economy. why does lt slt so low ln the front...especlally wlth no englne ln lt?

 

[John69RR]

No torsion bars Dave.

 

[Roadcuda]

It may not so much be the price, but it may be that most people don't want a project car. Anytime I was looking for a car I only considered already restored, running cars. I guess I just wanted that instant satisfaction of getting in, starting the car and down the road I go. :cents: As much as you want to move on to something else you may have to hope that you find that one guy who is looking for a project car to do for his own satisfaction. Even selling complete cars isn't easy. The Formula S I bought a year ago I know was for sale at least 4 or 5 months before I bought it, and a friend of mine has been trying to sell his '68 Road Runner for a few years now, with just a few bites. Good Luck!

 

[bstan70rr]

I teach my students this: it is only worth what someone is willing to pay, and the best way to see the price is to put it up for auction. Someone can say that a car is worth $10,000, but if noboday is willing to buy it for that, is it really worth $10,000. If the highest bidder is $9,000, then that is the value of it at the moment.

Really, you cannot beat ebay, except the process gets bogged down with dishonest advertisements, deadbeat bidders and scams. You can look at the "completed listings" to see what relative prices are. If you think your car is worth $10,000, look at what the completed listings are for the same kind of car for around that price. See what other people are getting when they pay a similar price.

If you are checking out eBay, the red colored bids mean that it did not sell. Green colored bids means a deal was reached; however, that does not take into account deals that fall through. I wish there was some way to see that information.

Here is a link to a search for completed listings for Road Runners between $5000 and $10000. I am not sure this link will work for everyone. I have to be logged in to do this search. Someone let me know.

http://www.ebay.com/csc/i.html?LH_C...rksid=p3286.c0.m1583&_udlo=5,000&_udhi=10,000

As a note, I could not access the site using your link; therefore, I have no idea what your car is and what price you were asking. Aslo, I have bought five cars off of eBay. I never felt like I got scammed. Some were better than others, but none of them were bad.

 

[spoolinhard]

thanks guys, I have been watching ebay. I didn't think that it was a bad price either, I just couldn't figure out why no one is biting. I think that ebay is the best bet.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

That car may be a good project, but it needs an easy 5K or more in bodywork. Unless a guy does it himself. So a 5K car with 5K in bodywork is a 10K investment that still needs everything else.

10K gets a pretty decent car these days. I think that is what you are facing. Guys are seeing exponentially better cars for not much more money. Stuff they can fire up and drive right off the jump.

I would just lower it 500 every now and then until I find the market. Things will get better by March- April as income tax returns roll in.

 

[moparchris]

I just bought one that needs the bottoms of the quarters and a hood. Trunk floor and floors are very solid and its a 383 4 speed car with axle package too for $1000. It was on craigslist for $2500 with no bites. It has a 318 auto in it now but doesn't run. Im telling you this just to give you perspective. Cars with panels cut out are hard to sell, it scares people. Ebay will be a good way to go, I have had very good luck with it. :cents:

 

[spoolinhard]

I think that the trunk cut out of it would hurt the value less than the trunk floor that was there. Now you can clearly see the framerails and how solid they are. I think that am going to do the said amount of work and pop it on ebay. I would feel like I shot myself in the foot if I let my car go for 1k, even 2,500. Obviously I paid more for it than that and I got a good deal on it. What you are saying just sounds uncommon.

 

[69hemibeep]

It also depends on where you live, back east rust repair is common place where as the west coast folks are use to working with better carcasses, so rust doesn't sell. :cents:

 

[ACME A12]

It also depends on where you live, back east rust repair is common place where as the west coast folks are use to working with better carcasses, so rust doesn't sell. :cents:

I think Somecarguy, Chris, and HemiBeep have this pretty well covered. All valid points, even if it isn't what you want to hear.

The rust issue puts a premium on cars from mild winter states. Why do you think sellers always mention "car is originally from (inset your state that doesn't salt the roads here)" in their advertisements if applicable?

I'll load up the truck & trailer for a road trip any day if it means I don't have to deal with a rust bucket. Speaking only in general terms; no reference to this car specifically.

 

[A31PKG]

From reading your description and carefully studying the pictures, it looks like there are two or three main selling points that would make this car desireable. The color (R4), an axle package (it looks like I see a 26" core support), and perhaps being a post car. If it's an original disc brake car, that's a plus too. These are the areas you should build on when advertising the car, and to help justify the asking price. I saw no mention of paper work or fender tag, and not having things like a 4-speed or N96 may tend to keep the price in check - not to mention the metal work it needs. You also need to decide what type of buyer you are going after. Someone who just wants to build a cool hot rod may not be as concerned with certain aspects of the car vs. a restorer-type buyer.

I say do the major metal work and then sell it.

 

[spoolinhard]

It also depends on where you live, back east rust repair is common place where as the west coast folks are use to working with better carcasses, so rust doesn't sell. :cents:

I think Somecarguy, Chris, and HemiBeep have this pretty well covered. All valid points, even if it isn't what you want to hear.

The rust issue puts a premium on cars from mild winter states. Why do you think sellers always mention "car is originally from (inset your state that doesn't salt the roads here)" in their advertisements if applicable?

I'll load up the truck & trailer for a road trip any day if it means I don't have to deal with a rust bucket. Speaking only in general terms; no reference to this car specifically.

Well if saying where the car is origionally from is a selling point then i should have included that this is an origional california car lol!

 

[spoolinhard]

From reading your description and carefully studying the pictures, it looks like there are two or three main selling points that would make this car desireable. The color (R4), an axle package (it looks like I see a 26" core support), and perhaps being a post car. If it's an original disc brake car, that's a plus too. These are the areas you should build on when advertising the car, and to help justify the asking price. I saw no mention of paper work or fender tag, and not having things like a 4-speed or N96 may tend to keep the price in check - not to mention the metal work it needs. You also need to decide what type of buyer you are going after. Someone who just wants to build a cool hot rod may not be as concerned with certain aspects of the car vs. a restorer-type buyer.

I say do the major metal work and then sell it.

Thanks, It is an origional disc brake car as well as R6 with an axle package. Fender tag is there, no build sheet. I have started checking into the remaining floors that I need to finish them.

 

[moparchris]

I didn't mean to upset you, its just that right now in this hobby project cars are hard to sell. I have been selling off some of the projects that I dont want anymore and have had to sell them for less than I paid or felt they are worth. Its just the nature of the beast. In my ebay ads I try to take acurrate and detailed pics of every aspect of the car. I usually post them on photobucket and put a link in the ad. Obviously you have a cool car no doubt, but it will need to be marketed correctly to get maximum dollar. Also if you put new floors and trunk in it you will get a lot more money than you invested in time and money. I usually dont have time to do those kinds of things. On ebay I bet that your car with new sheet metal and a properly designed ad will bring over 5 grand. :cents:

 

[69hemibeep]

Its worthless just give it to me :jester: Really I think Chris hit the nail on the head with his last post

 

[A31PKG]

On ebay I bet that your car with new sheet metal and a properly designed ad will bring over 5 grand. :cents:

X2

 

[spoolinhard]

Im not upset, no worries at all. I have already started pricing sheetmetal and should have that bought in the next few days. I really don't have time to do this either. It will take time away from the resto on my T/A. I do know that I want to sell this car to buy one I would like even more, so I need to get a minimum requirement out of it to buy the other car, which is a 68 charger R/T.

 

[spoolinhard]

also, I was thinking that I would finish off the engine and paint it, which I have already purchased some hemi orange. Don't know if I want to do both the metal and engine work though.

 

[69hemibeep]

also, I was thinking that I would finish off the engine and paint it, which I have already purchased some hemi orange. Don't know if I want to do both the metal and engine work though.

It gets to be a tough call as to what will pay you back, I think the metal will, the engine ? Don't know.