Car electrical behaving badly

[sam z]

I recently posted some "woes" concerning my electrical. Everything pointed to the
battery being bad and it was replaced.
Now, more...
I have driven the car every few days since (with the new battery) and have
had zero issues. Drove the car for around an hour last night.

Went to start today, and got nothing. Not even a click or tick. At this moment, here is what happened:
1. The interior dome light comes on, the headlights do not.
2. I hooked up the charger on the battery and it quickly dropped into the "charged" zone. Of course, the car battery cables were disconnected when I hooked up the charger.
3. I walked around to the front of the car, and gently "tapped" the cables to the starter.
4. I disconnected the charger (because it said "charged" anyway) and reconnected the cars battery cables.
5. Steps 1-4 above took around five minutes at the most.
6. Got in the car, it started no problem.

Ok, what's the deal?
1. There is no way five minutes on the charger got the battery charged, or is this really possible?
2. The headlights in step one did not come on, but why in the world after tapping on the starter cable would this have an effect on that? Is the connection to the starter really that integral to the whole system?

Thanks in advance for any help with this small but annoying headache.

 

[george68hemirr]

I recently posted some "woes" concerning my electrical. Everything pointed to the
battery being bad and it was replaced.
Now, more...
I have driven the car every few days since (with the new battery) and have
had zero issues. Drove the car for around an hour last night.

Went to start today, and got nothing. Not even a click or tick. At this moment, here is what happened:
1. The interior dome light comes on, the headlights do not.
2. I hooked up the charger on the battery and it quickly dropped into the "charged" zone. Of course, the car battery cables were disconnected when I hooked up the charger.
3. I walked around to the front of the car, and gently "tapped" the cables to the starter.
4. I disconnected the charger (because it said "charged" anyway) and reconnected the cars battery cables.
5. Steps 1-4 above took around five minutes at the most.
6. Got in the car, it started no problem.

Ok, what's the deal?
1. There is no way five minutes on the charger got the battery charged, or is this really possible?
2. The headlights in step one did not come on, but why in the world after tapping on the starter cable would this have an effect on that? Is the connection to the starter really that integral to the whole system?

Thanks in advance for any help with this small but annoying headache.

first thing i would do is check the battery connections,,have to be clean and tight...also look for engine grounds,,,engine to body and maybe k-frame....only because the headlites didnt come on....another thing is the neutral safetey switch......make sure its in park or neutral[ its automatic??]....see what happens....you tapped on the starter....is the connections tight??

 

[sam z]

Thanks already:
1. Battery connections are clean and tight.
2. When the car started and I turned the headlights on, it took a second or two for them to come on. It was not instantaneous as it should be.
3. It is an automatic, and the car was in park. I didn't fool with it at all between it not starting and then starting a few minutes later.

Please explain the headlight thing if possible.

thanks,
-Sam

 

[Big John]

Check the connection at the starter, starter relay, ground to the block and ground to the body.

I'll bet the starter connections are either loose or corroded.

 

[mac]

i would also check your bulkhead connections. they are notorious for weird elect probs.

 

[Basketcase]

i would also check your bulkhead connections. they are notorious for weird elect probs.

my Uncle's 300 did that. one time it would start right up, then others not even a click. I had had trouble with the bulkhead connectors on one of my trucks, so I grabbed them one wiggled them, and the car started. That would explain why no power to outside things(headlights,starter,etc)

 

[george68hemirr]

the thing with the headlites also is that dimmer switch on the floor,had mine short out ...but try everything else first

 

[Roadcuda]

i would also check your bulkhead connections. they are notorious for weird elect probs.

my Uncle's 300 did that. one time it would start right up, then others not even a click. I had had trouble with the bulkhead connectors on one of my trucks, so I grabbed them one wiggled them, and the car started. That would explain why no power to outside things(headlights,starter,etc)

I also had bulkhead connector problems on my first '69 runner back around 1972. It was easy to get a new one and have it installed back in those days!

 

[Hoosier Bird]

I think it Big is right, because of how he got it going.

 

[moparstuart]

the thing with the headlites also is that dimmer switch on the floor,had mine short out ...but try everything else first

I had tons of problem with my bulk head connection , it gets wet really easy rain drips right on it.
the connections corrode and like has been said before it does strange things to your car.

I finally replaces the dash wiring harness and keep it nice and dry, everything works great now

 

[hotrod98]

I use dielectric grease which is nonconductive on all terminals and sockets. Some experts will tell you not to do this because it doesn't help conductivity, but other experts claim that the contact points will push the grease out of the way and then the dielectric grease will serve to shield the terminals from corrosion, etc. All I know is that once I started using it, I never had any problems again. The added bonus is that it serves as a lubricant and makes assembly and disasembly easier.

 

[moparstuart]

I use dielectric grease which is nonconductive on all terminals and sockets. Some experts will tell you not to do this because it doesn't help conductivity, but other experts claim that the contact points will push the grease out of the way and then the dielectric grease will serve to shield the terminals from corrosion, etc. All I know is that once I started using it, I never had any problems again. The added bonus is that it serves as a lubricant and makes assembly and disasembly easier.

i guess i need to start using that also , all my cars with older wiring alway have bulk head wiring corrosion and problems


new dash harnesses are a pain to replace and expensive ( year one exclusive parts)

 

[69runner]

hotrod98 is right on the money with the dielectric grease. It is excellent for any electrical connection to help lube and seal connectors. Not to worry about it being nonconductive, a connector that fits well will displace the grease and make a good connection. If the connector doesn't fit well nothing will make it work except replacement. Works great in bulb sockets also.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Dielectric grease sounds like a good idea to me. I may have to start using that. Anyone else have experience with it?

 

[mac]

Dielectric grease sounds like a good idea to me. I may have to start using that. Anyone else have experience with it?

i use it everywhere on the car. but don't over do it. just a light film.

 

[hotrod98]

Personally, I think that if the factory had used dielectric grease from the beginning, we would have a lot less electrical problems.
Of course it wouldn't have helped solve all of the problems, like Amp gauges burning out, ground wire corrosion and cheap plastic coating on the wiring.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Personally, I think that if the factory had used dielectric grease from the beginning, we would have a lot less electrical problems.
Of course it wouldn't have helped solve all of the problems, like Amp gauges burning out, ground wire corrosion and cheap plastic coating on the wiring.

Good to see you back Hotrod.......

 

[moparstuart]

Personally, I think that if the factory had used dielectric grease from the beginning, we would have a lot less electrical problems.
Of course it wouldn't have helped solve all of the problems, like Amp gauges burning out, ground wire corrosion and cheap plastic coating on the wiring.

Good to see you back Hotrod.......

 

[Roadcuda]

Personally, I think that if the factory had used dielectric grease from the beginning, we would have a lot less electrical problems.
Of course it wouldn't have helped solve all of the problems, like Amp gauges burning out, ground wire corrosion and cheap plastic coating on the wiring.

Good to see you back Hotrod.......

I'll second that!

 

[mcmopar]

Good to see you back hotrod. That blue runner still looks nice to me! BTW how's your wife doing? Hope she's doing ok.