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Carb Spacer

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a6t9vette

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I've noticed a lot of talk on moparts about using carb spacers (wood, plastic, AL, etc) to reduce carb temp.

I have an issue where once the car is hot and sits for a lenght of time (greater then ~5min) that it takes more cranking to start (to the point where I cross my fingers sometimes). That being said im thinking the spacer might help and wanted to know if any members are encountering the same and what you have done. I have also noticed that after sitting for sometime that the fuel filter is empty as well (Clear filter), so leads me to belive that fuel is evaporating as well (I dont think it can flow back through the pump, and I dont have any leaks)

My current set up is a 383 HP, with original Cast manifold, and an Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm).

Thanks.....
 
ACME A12

ACME A12

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I've experienced the same thing to some degree - and my car has a small spacer... :huh:

To this point I have just worked around it - knowing that at some point I'll put the six pack set up back on it and I'll see then if I still have a problem. Sorry, I'm not any help here...

Ray
 
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a6t9vette

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What intake/Carb are you running, that looks like more of a set up for a Holly...?
 
droptop

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I had the same problem with my '75 RR. I put in the carb spacer listed above, no help at all. I removed the intake and blocked off the heat riser to keep exhaust gas from heating the intake manifold. Helped some but still hard starts with hot engine. Installed and electric fuel pump at the tank. Problem solved. Today's gas is junk and evaporates very quickly. Oh yeah, stock 75 400 short block with '69 383 906 heads with hardened seats, milled 40 thou to raise compression, '69 383 intake and exhaust manifolds, and '69 Road Runner cam.
 
george68hemirr

george68hemirr

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a6t9vette said:
I've noticed a lot of talk on moparts about using carb spacers (wood, plastic, AL, etc) to reduce carb temp.

I have an issue where once the car is hot and sits for a lenght of time (greater then ~5min) that it takes more cranking to start (to the point where I cross my fingers sometimes). That being said im thinking the spacer might help and wanted to know if any members are encountering the same and what you have done. I have also noticed that after sitting for sometime that the fuel filter is empty as well (Clear filter), so leads me to belive that fuel is evaporating as well (I dont think it can flow back through the pump, and I dont have any leaks)

My current set up is a 383 HP, with original Cast manifold, and an Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm).

Thanks.....

i have two plastic super suckers and i think it helps to keep the carbs cooler.....i am not getting this with the fuel filter empty......are you sure you dont have a loose fitting somewhere??
Click to expand...
 
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a6t9vette

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Yea im sure I have no loose fittings. Whats a Super Sucker (I assume its a spacer, or gasket), are you running a stock intake, etc?

Thanks
 
ACME A12

ACME A12

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a6t9vette said:
are you running a stock intake, etc?
Click to expand...

I think you need to look in the pictures section and find George's picture thread. His engine is, ahem, slightly modified to say the least.... :D

Come to think of it, his intake probably is "stock" for all 500+ cubic inch Hemis.... :lmao:

:jester:
 
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mcmopar

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If you are running a stock intake you could easily run a 1" phenolic resin spacer with no hood clearance problems. The phenolic resin won't transfer heat the way an aluminum spacer can. Aluminum is a great conductor of heat - as most stock computer heatsink/fan assemblies are made of finned aluminum in order to absorb the heat and then dissipate it through the cooling fins. Another option is found in Carter AVS carb rebuild kits that include a fiber spacer approx 3/8" thick with brass eyelets through the mounting holes for stability as the carb is tightened down. And as was said before - I'd highly recommend a valley pan intake gasket with the heat crossovers blocked. Summit and Jegs sell these intake gaskets for about $35 or so if I remember correctly. No matter what you do your carb is going to get hot - but these are the best steps to take especially if running a cast iron (hotter than blazes) intake manifold.
The fuel filter problem is another matter. Once the car is turned off heat builds rapidly in the engine and is dissipated into the engine compartment as the flow of coolant ceases to run through the engine. This can cause the fuel in the engine compartment lines to actually boil and evaporate. Also, depending on how long the car is sitting, your fuel line could be draining back toward the tank if it is not evaporating due to the heat. This might explain your problem - particulalry if you cannot find a leak anywhere in the system.
 
george68hemirr

george68hemirr

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my 1" plastic style 4 hole spacer. I never ran the car without it so I dont know if it helped performance much but I do have the open one also that I plan to try one day. But it really help the car start easier on a hot soak and not feel like it would want to flood if you hit the gas before starting. It starts so easy now in real hot weather. .........from a different website....his opinion
 
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6R9Runner

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a6t9vette, did you have any luck with the spacer? did you try open or divided for the 1406?
 
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a6t9vette

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I have the open spacer. I think it helped a little, but I didnt have it on the car for too long before I changed to hard fuel lines, an AL intake, and discovered I had other fuel issues; hard line from tank was internally corroded, and my fuel pump rod was about 0.2" short from 40 years a wear. I think all that has helped, cant say how much was the spacer, but I do still have it on the carb.....
 
A31PKG

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droptop said:
....I removed the intake and blocked off the heat riser to keep exhaust gas from heating the intake manifold. Helped some but still hard starts with hot engine. Installed and electric fuel pump at the tank. Problem solved..../quote]

X2

This, combined with a good carb insulator is the most effective route...It's what I use too....

Inline "helper" pumps can be easily hidden, usually cost around 50-75 bucks, and are a big help with not only "hot-soak" restarts, but firing the ol' girl up after sitting for extended periods. Mount as close to the tank as possible... On the crossmember - where the rear shocks mount - is where I have mine...
Click to expand...
 
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6R9Runner

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A31PKG said:
droptop said:
Inline "helper" pumps can be easily hidden, usually cost around 50-75 bucks, and are a big help with not only "hot-soak" restarts, but firing the ol' girl up after sitting for extended periods. Mount as close to the tank as possible... On the crossmember - where the rear shocks mount - is where I have mine...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
A31, did you switch the pump with the key or separately? Is there a brand you would recommend/ avoid? My thoughts are to avoid a high pressure pump, and go with something like a 30 gph.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATX-E8090/
 
A31PKG

A31PKG

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Yes, when the key is on, the pump is on...It remains on until you switch the engine off. I wired it to the fuse box to a key-on hot terminal ...I'll have to dig up the paperwork on it, but as I recall, it was something in the neighborhood of 5 or 6 psi. When the float in the carb shuts off the needle valve, the pump simply stops pumping...it's still "on" just inoperative until the float level drops. It basically works like the stock mechanical pump...always "on" but not moving fuel until there is a need... I researched a few: AC Delco, Bosch, and Carter...I ended with the Carter because it's what my local parts house had in stock. I'll try and locate the particulars and post the info. The idea is to just "help" the fuel move on its journey...not to pressurize it like a fuel injection system. The unit you referenced from Summit looks like the right deal...

I found the box, but not the paperwork....the Carter part number is P74029. Rock Auto has it for $51 bucks...
 
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