Headers

[4spd69RR]

Ok all, I have a question for you. I am planning on installing headers on my 383. The last set of headers (Headman) I had always burnt my number three plug wire into at the plug boot. What header manufacturer makes a set that will not cause me to buy and replace just the single plug wire. Just a little bit about my engine compartment. Manual Sterring, Manual Brakes, No A/C, Manual Trans, and I plan on using a normal size starter. I have seen were some header combination suggest using a mini starter. I have never used one of these before, are they any good and have enough torque. Any advise I have place two images of two styles I like below, one is from Hooker the other Flowtech.

 

[mcmopar]

I'm using tti headers with a mini-starter. the mini's have WAY more torque than the standard starters. Plus, they usually last a whole lot longer because the normal starter's solenoid almost always gets fried by the heat from the headers. Knowing what I now know I'd go with the mini-starter if I were you.
I've had my plug wires since I put the car back together in '03 and have not fried a boot yet (Accell wires). tti headers are expensive but well worth it from the standpoint of fit and lack of leaks. They have thick flanges and come with excellent header gaskets. Well worth the expense IMO. I had my tti's on the car in half an hour or less (383 4-speed, a/c, ps, pdb, 1-7/8" tti headers).

 

[dobie]

I have regular Hooker headers on mine. I bought them direct from Jet-Hot which they coated with their stuff. No issues at all either burning wires or starters. Well worth the money, imo anyways.

 

[droptop]

TTI and a mini starter. You will have no regrets. :cents:

 

[george68hemirr]

TTI and a mini starter. You will have no regrets. :cents:

same here

 

[4spd69RR]

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I willl check out the mini starter and TTI headers. I'm sure I will not be using my existing Headman Headers.

 

[george68hemirr]

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I willl check out the mini starter and TTI headers. I'm sure I will not be using my existing Headman Headers.

TTI is pricey but worth the money :cheers:

 

[Big John]

But the mini starter just doesn't sound right......

 

[Roadcuda]

But the mini starter just doesn't sound right......

Ohhhhhhh, here we go again!!!!!! :jester: But you're right!!!! :lmao:

 

[Basketcase]

But the mini starter just doesn't sound right......

Amen to that. I've never had to replace staters more often because of the headers. besides...the worls IS flat.....

Johnny Mc...were you able to put your TTIs on yourself, or did you have a friend with a lift? If the headers on mine go bad I'll splurge for TTIs.

 

[4spd69RR]

I have had to replace several starters in the past before because of the heat generated from the collector. Because of the header collector it is also harder to just replace the starter without unbolting the left header from the block. Was discussing the mini starter with a buddy of mine, he is one of the less inform because he likes Bow Ties, however, he has a mini starter on his 71 Z-28. He tells me that because of the gear reduction it does have more torque than the regular OEM/NOS starter. I am not rebulding my RR to be a numbers matching car or plan to show in concourse class shows. Just want it to be dependable. I did ask the question about the mini starter, because some of the Header manufacturers suggest using them with their header combinations. I thought because of the name Mini that they would also have less torque to turn over a 10:1 comp engine. Understanding now that is not the case.

 

[Big John]

I have had to replace several starters in the past before because of the heat generated from the collector. Because of the header collector it is also harder to just replace the starter without unbolting the left header from the block. Was discussing the mini starter with a buddy of mine, he is one of the less inform because he likes Bow Ties, however, he has a mini starter on his 71 Z-28. He tells me that because of the gear reduction it does have more torque than the regular OEM/NOS starter. I am not rebulding my RR to be a numbers matching car or plan to show in concourse class shows. Just want it to be dependable. I did ask the question about the mini starter, because some of the Header manufacturers suggest using them with their header combinations. I thought because of the name Mini that they would also have less torque to turn over a 10:1 comp engine. Understanding now that is not the case.

Because he is a Chevy guy, he doesn't know that the Chrysler starter is a gear reduction starter (the reason for the whine in the starter).

Seriously, the smaller starter is smaller and easier to change.... It just takes some of the charm out of the old Mopars to me.

 

[4spd69RR]

I have to agree on that point!

 

[moparstuart]

just get some of those asbestos socks to protect the wires they work great . I used to have to replace my wires every one or two years and now I havent had to change them in years .

 

[mcmopar]

But the mini starter just doesn't sound right......

Amen to that. I've never had to replace staters more often because of the headers. besides...the worls IS flat.....

Johnny Mc...were you able to put your TTIs on yourself, or did you have a friend with a lift? If the headers on mine go bad I'll splurge for TTIs.

Initially I had my buddy Jerry (Moparmoose) help me. When I had to take them off to repair the driveline after a bad day at the strip I did it myself. It is easier with a 4-speed car than an automatic. I installed them from underneath - no lift, just tall jackstands strategically placed. I even hung the exhaust system by myself. It wasn't easy but I got it done.

And speaking of the gear reduction starters, way back in 1970 when my dad bought his '69 runner, the starter sounded funny to him so he told the guy on the used car lot that he thought the starter was going to need to be replaced soon and talked him down a little on that point. I really don't care what the starter sounds like - I just want it to kick the engine over right now. I've had my share of heat soak affecting the original style starters and bad solenoids stranding me. Replacing that heavy original is no fun! I put the mini on back in 2003 and have not had one issue with it since. Dependability and starting power is where it's at for me.

 

[4spd69RR]

Well I have had to replace at least three and I will agree it is not fun if you have an automatic. I never thought about the sock idea over the plug boots. I may still look into them as well. What can I say this is a great site to get info from.

 

[moparstuart]

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5060178-koolmat ... 5-1-2.html

 

[moparstuart]

or is you want pretty colors Taylor is the way to go


http://pitstopusa.com/i-5076408-taylor- ... -of-8.html

 

[sam z]

Sounds like you won't run Hedman headers, but I'll contribute anyway.

I have Hedman headers and a mini starter. One of the pipes JUST made
contact with the starter housing. Had to "adjust" that pipe with heat and a
lot of force. And to be clear, the pipe was making contact using the mini
starter, I would have been really screwed if I kept the OEM starter.

I could care less about gear reduction sounds, just start the car please. My
old OEM starter had left me stranded too and it sucked.

With the Hedmans I've also had to use the asbestos boot over a few of the
wires as illustrated above. Haven't torched any with that correction in place.
I use Taylor wires as well. Because of all of the components in close proximity
to one another I also have a heat "blanket" secured to the starter as a precautionary
measure.

 

[4spd69RR]

I also had made adjustments to my left Hedman header at the #3 plug and near the Starter. When I get back in town I take some picture of the to show the area near the #3 plug.