generaljmwlee
Well-Known Member
after getting the car on the road I found the rear main leaks bad! :brickwall: my question is is it possable to change it with the motor in?
how hard is it?
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metalstorm
Well-Known Member
like anything with an engine it can be a problem sometimes but can be done.
generaljmwlee
Well-Known Member
read some old posts seems like i dont have to drop the trans either or is that for an auto only?
4spd69RR
Well-Known Member
I have heard this being done but never witness the procedure, good luck.
metalstorm
Well-Known Member
sliding in the side seals may be the hardest part.heve you done a rear seal before on an engine stand?
moparchris
Well-Known Member
I have run into this before. It is very rare for a rear mains seal to leak bad on a fresh motor. If it is then there is usually a main bearing clearance issue. My :cents: is, and this has happened to me on more than one occassion, the cam plug gets dislodged and leaks like a mofo on when running. If I were you I would do some detailed investigation before assuming its the rear main.
generaljmwlee
Well-Known Member
(the rear main) was the pipecleaner type I was told it would leak if i didnt have enough rtv in think that is the problem
Big John
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My wife asked that same question.....
Oh wait....
The rear main seal can be changed in the car. Drop the pan and pull the retainer that holds the rear seal. It will take a little patience and some wiggling to get it out. The top part (over the crank) will need to be "rolled" out. Usually you can push it out enough to grab the other end and pull it out. The new one will have to be "rolled" back into place. Be sure the lip of the seal faces the right way. Put the seal retainer back in, you''l have to soak the side seals in kerosene first. A bit of "anaerobic" sealer (lock-tite) on the mating surface to the block isn't a bad idea, but they never had it from the factory.
RTV (sparingly) where the retainer meets the block just 'cause, new pan gasket(s) with your favorite gasket sealer and you're back in business.
But "pipe cleaner" rear seal??? Explain please.
The only seals I've ever seen in a big block Mopar were either rubber or rope.
Oh wait....
The rear main seal can be changed in the car. Drop the pan and pull the retainer that holds the rear seal. It will take a little patience and some wiggling to get it out. The top part (over the crank) will need to be "rolled" out. Usually you can push it out enough to grab the other end and pull it out. The new one will have to be "rolled" back into place. Be sure the lip of the seal faces the right way. Put the seal retainer back in, you''l have to soak the side seals in kerosene first. A bit of "anaerobic" sealer (lock-tite) on the mating surface to the block isn't a bad idea, but they never had it from the factory.
RTV (sparingly) where the retainer meets the block just 'cause, new pan gasket(s) with your favorite gasket sealer and you're back in business.
But "pipe cleaner" rear seal??? Explain please.
The only seals I've ever seen in a big block Mopar were either rubber or rope.
generaljmwlee
Well-Known Member
it was 2 pcs of pipe cleaner type of material that I was told to fill the groves with rtv and insert it to the rtv belive it was after the cap was on
Jim S.
Well-Known Member
I'm doing mine again this summer. You just have to unbolt one side of the drag link and swing it out of the way, or remove it altogether. They make three different kinds of side seals. The old style (best) that you soak in mineral spirits first, the neoprene rubber side seals that can be tricky to get flush to the block and the pipe cleaner style. The idea is to fill the side slots with RTV then wet the pipe cleaners to expand and cure the RTV.
I'm going back to the old style rope seal and the "mineral spirits" side seals that John mentioned. Victor Reinz Part number JV 551 from NAPA. You need a "sneaky pete" tool to do this. If you use the rubber split rear main seal, it is never a bad idea to offset it about 1/8" around the crank and the opposite in the retainer.
If mine still leaks then, it is time to take a look at the cam welch plug which is tranny pulling time.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... er=5349752
I'm going back to the old style rope seal and the "mineral spirits" side seals that John mentioned. Victor Reinz Part number JV 551 from NAPA. You need a "sneaky pete" tool to do this. If you use the rubber split rear main seal, it is never a bad idea to offset it about 1/8" around the crank and the opposite in the retainer.
If mine still leaks then, it is time to take a look at the cam welch plug which is tranny pulling time.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... er=5349752
generaljmwlee
Well-Known Member
what do the side seals do? seal the cap or the rear main?this is the first BB mopar I am working on
Jim S.
Well-Known Member
generaljmwlee said:
They seal the slots in the sides of the retainer to the block. Here is a pic of some orange rubber type ones.
http://store.440source.com/Rear-Seal-Caps/products/26/
generaljmwlee
Well-Known Member
with the rear main seal came a tube of rtv , it tells you to use a washer on the tip to apply I take it thats for the sides . is it poss just to use rtv to seal the sides.
sorry if some one already answered this ,I just want to fully understand before I attempt this.
sorry if some one already answered this ,I just want to fully understand before I attempt this.
First I've ever heard of this "pipe cleaner" RMS nonsense...and that is just what it sounds like to me. I'll just stick to the neoprene, thank you very much. :cents:
metalstorm
Well-Known Member
yes it is possible to use just rtv for the side seals,i did this on my race engine with a stock seat reatainer but when my engine is on the stand i put a bead down the sides and fill in the taper on the retainer.