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Loose Spark Plug

RoadRunner1969

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I saw that one of my spark plugs is a little loose. Not too much but it looks like it´s not 100% sealed to the head. I know that there are things like Helicoil BUT I don´t want to remove the head.

What do you think ? Permatex 2 ?

It´s a little bit leaking - not too bad so maybe there is a chance to get this sealed without a head remove ?


I used the Champions J12YC and saw that they look different to the Champions J12YC that I removed. I bought another set and they also look a little bit different. There is a stamped number in the socket D9. What´s the meaning of that number ? On the other set there is J9 instead of D9 ???!?

The easiest thing would be to try different plugs but I don´t want to damage the thread completely by changing the plugs to often !

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT !!
 

SomeCarGuy

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Is it stripped out? Not for sure with what you have there.

Can't help on the plugs, I always run Autolite 85's. May change since I'm on my last set of USA made plugs. They are made in China now so I will look elsewhere. Japan would be better than from there.
 

69hemibeep

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Its pretty hard to hurt the heads unless they get cross threaded, will it tighten?
 

droptop

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I used teflon tape on the threads of a spark plug for this problem many years ago. :cents:
 

69hemibeep

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When I was in high school auto shop, my buddy and I were going to tune up another students 289 mustang. We broke 3 sockets and finally got all the plugs out with an impact socket, the dufus use plumbers pipe cement on the threads.
 

glhcarl

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The problem if is really leaking after a period of time it will erode the threads. If that happen it will never tighten and may blow out.
 

Roadcuda

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69hemibeep said:
When I was in high school auto shop, my buddy and I were going to tune up another students 289 mustang. We broke 3 sockets and finally got all the plugs out with an impact socket, the dufus use plumbers pipe cement on the threads.
:loco: :lmao: :crazy:
 

Big John

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I change that plug first before doing anything too crazy. It may not be threaded right or the washer has been squashed too much.
 

Jim S.

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Big John said:
I change that plug first before doing anything too crazy. It may not be threaded right or the washer has been squashed too much.
Yes, and anti-seize on the threads of the new one.
 

RoadRunner1969

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Big John said:
I change that plug first before doing anything too crazy. It may not be threaded right or the washer has been squashed too much.


I don´t want to do anything too crazy ! :crazy:

The weather is really nice this weekend and I will go for a cruise tomorrow. I will check the leaking before and after. I will take a picture to check how much it is leaking. At the moment it´s not too bad.

Changing that plug is what I had in mind but I don´t want to make more damage...IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN !! :cool:

Don´t know how many tries I have.

THANKS FOR THE IDEAS !

Maybe Teflon will help....
 

BBillyC

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I agree with Carl. If it is leaking the threads will further erode and you can get a plug blow-out. In either case the heli-coil will have to go in to repair that cylinder.
 

RoadRunner1969

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haven´t done anything yet ! (IT WAS A WINTERWONDERLAND IN GERMANY !! :) !!)

Drove a few miles last week and it still leaks....not as much as last year but it still leaks. How tight do you torque the spark plugs. I do have the manual and this sounds very tight for me ! I tighten the spark plugs finger tight and a LITTLE bit more....maybe not tight enough...
 

A31PKG

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Any gasket-style spark plug requires crush....that is, the gasket (or washer) is designed to comply with the seat as the plug is tightened. Once this crush is acheived, the plug will be noticably harder to turn. It should only take about 3/4 of a turn or so further after the plug is seated finger tight.
 
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