Need advice on buying a Roadrunner

[artiststan]

Hi, Since having a couple Mopars years ago, I loved the cars and wanted to get a driver that is a good investment as well. I am not sure if 68 vs 69 is better, whether I should look for restomod or original with matching numbers. I know the restomod would be easier to maintain, but I want the investment aspect of the car as well. Any advice on year, whether original matching numbers matter, etc is greatly appreciated.

 

[ralleygreen]

I would go with a 69 numbers matching car. I think that would be your best investment.

 

[Big John]

My personal preference is the 69. Generally speaking, they are finished a little nicer and not quite as stark as the 68... But some people like them that way too.

Restomod? Well... If you are looking at it as an investment too, IMHO, the restomoded cars aren't going to be the ticket. Any time you take something away from stock, you decrease the value of the car. Things that are easily changed back (ex. tires and wheels) aren't going to hurt, but when the car gets mods that aren't easily reversed, then you are gambling that someone else is going to like that modification. I personally like to see things stock.

That leaves the "driver" type cars. That could be anything from a cloned Satellite to a real "numbers matching" Roadrunner that needs some TLC. Most are somewhere in between.

If that's what you want, get that tired expression "numbers matching" out of your head. There's a ton of cars out there that don't have date coded parts or maybe don't have the original engine in them. These are the fun cars that you see at the cruise nights. What you need to look for in something like that is a good rust free body and in decent mechanical shape. Interior fixes like carpet is easy, but paint (done right) can be expensive.

From there, personal taste and the depth of your wallet are the determining factors over what car to buy.

 

[69B5]

:yeathat:

 

[artiststan]

thanks

Thanks Big John and others who replied. I am leaning more toward investment but want a driver too, so what I'm hearing is original with good paint and body/metal but not necessarily matching numbers if I want to protect the investment aspects? Sorry to be so dense but a little more on that would be helpful. Thanks!!

 

[mahoney0_00_3]

# matching is nice and 383 is simple--I like ragtops

 

[mahoney0_00_3]

if you go to cars on line or ebay there is a lot of deals out there--stock market is doing good so cars and gold are down. get some inside storage too kept it nice

 

[rockdog2112]

I'm personally just glad to have a 69 RR again even if it's not numbers matching(it's the socioeconomic level in which I live). It's not a restomod(at least I don't consider it to be) It's a bone stock car that someone took the 383/727TF out of and replaced with a 440/A833, which is what I wanted- A big block four speed RR. My point is, get what ever lights your fire baby and have fun driving it like a race car!

 

[artiststan]

Beautiful cars mahoney.. thanks for sharing.. should the engine and trans be matching to the frame as the main matching numbers. I am looking for a basic 383 69 roadrunner in excellent shape and would like to stay under $35K, with matching numbers. Again, which all numbers should match to making it matching numbers. I really appreciate the help and thoughts. Love those ragtops man!!! Stan

 

[artiststan]

thanks Rockdog... this is a great forum with good folks.. very helpful man..

 

[69hemibeep]

Here is one about a mile from me that looks cool. Ive had no reason to look it over as of yet. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/4769971358.html

 

[Big John]

"Numbers matching"... I've begun to truly dislike that phrase because it's overused and very misunderstood.

Let's define a couple things first.... In 1969, the gubermint required the car manufactures to place the VIN (vehicle identification number) on several places in and on the car. You have the VIN on the dash, on the radiator yoke and under the trunk gasket. It's also stamped on the engine block and the transmission. It is also on the data plate on the left front fender well.

Part of the "numbers matching" package revolves around that data plate too. The paint color, interior, options, etc. listed on the data plate should match. That is a brown car should be painted brown. A bench seat interior should still be a bench seat interior.... All the options listed should be there and no more.

Then there's the build sheet. If you're lucky, the car still has the build sheet. That sheet is fragile in nature and stuffed under the seat, above the glove box or even in the headliner. It was nothing but scrap paper to the guys on the assembly line and mice don't discriminate about what they chew on, so that's why I say "if you're lucky". Some cars, like a lot of A12 cars, never even had one to begin with.

Now there's the matter of date codes. Just about everything that went into the car had a date code stamped on it. Guys go crazy trying to match the dates on replacement parts to come near the date the car went down the assembly line. That holds true with 68 cars too.

So... a true "numbers matching" car will be one that the engine and trans are original to the car. All options and paint will be correct. The data plate will be intact and hopefully there will be a build sheet. One step above that will have correct date codes on original and replacement parts.

The truth is.... The car is only original once.... and the more originality the car has, the more expensive it will probably be.

Remember, these were just cars once upon a time. Blow an engine? Find a wreck in a junkyard and swap the engine out.... No one cared about matching the numbers for the first 20 years of the car's life. These cars were hot street machines to some and drag cars to others. Lot's of "go fast" stuff got bolted on too and maybe the original stuff got saved and maybe it didn't.

 

[jays69bird]

Make sure the car is sound,Road Runners being a uni body with a big motor can have issues. Make sure the sub frame rails are solid and floor pans. The Torsion bar crossmember. If the car has has rust repair and most have had quarter panel work,make sure the work was done right. Big John is right, these cars were rode hard and put away wet for the most part for the first 20 years of their lives so it is tough to find 100% original. The main thing is don't worry about it as an investment,but as something that will be reliable and make you happy when you drive it.

 

[jays69bird]

This is out of your neck of the woods,but close to Big John and me. https://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/4744160298.html
A good example of what is out there. I haven't looked over the car but seems in good shape from the pictures,and it does have documentation.

 

[Roadcuda]

That's a great lookin' car, and the right color too! :groucho:

 

[rockdog2112]

Here is one about a mile from me that looks cool. Ive had no reason to look it over as of yet. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/4769971358.html

I love that bare bones look with the steel wheels and hubcaps.

 

[Big John]

A little more about "numbers matching" is in this thread...

www.69roadrunner.net/mopar/showthread.php?10124-Should-I-be-embarrassed

 

[jays69bird]

A little more about "numbers matching" is in this thread...

www.69roadrunner.net/mopar/showthread.php?10124-Should-I-be-embarrassed

Ah yes,the dreaded,"You only have a 383 ?" blowoff. Sad to say I have been hit with it my self a few times.

 

[pro-streeter]

I like them all 383, (440 6 bbl my favorite) and Hemi. I currently own a B7 383 numbers matching auto with factory AC and Tach. I also have had a R4 383 4spd non numbers matching. Both cars have had very detailed nut and bolt restorations top to bottom. Fun cars in both cases and I would value them some what similar. The numbers matching $35K to $38K and the non numbers $33K to $35K. Because the Hemi and 6 barrel cars are fewer in number greater consideration should be taken in regards to paper work and originality. The investment in these cars is greater and should be researched closely. The 383 cars if nicely done numbers or non numbers matching are closer in value. I am as impressed with a 383 as I am with any other. These cars are great.

 

[mahoney0_00_3]

I bought my 1969 ragtop road runner for 32.000 and put a 1500. brake kit disc brakes s*cked 1966-1969 (new lines and front brake assy disc from( right stuff)so I have a 4sp 383 air grabber car # matching-cali car. car runs and drives as it should---buy one done and from the west coast--insure it the min you but it and have it shipped--I flew to cali and looked at the car and bought it--insured it and flew home! got on line to U_SHIP IT and had home in 10 days---look on craigs list for Huston texas and a lot of people take cars to mexico to be restored its cheaper/my car is clean as it gets--NO RUST AT ALLebay just sold a rag top for 20.000 4 months ago/my silver conv that here I bought in a auto-wreckers yard no engine and trans and you can buy a engine cheap/383-440/do you know how many engines I bought taken apart for 300. bucks they made a billon off them/there was a road runner in cali for 25.000 I looked on(CARS-ON-LINE) and some cheaper/if a engine is blown up its junk but that is not always the case over half just took it apart/but they just sold a road runner on ebay for 16000 or so--look on completed items on ebay