Need advice on buying a Roadrunner

[mahoney0_00_3]

just looked on c list and there is a nice ragtop 4sp road runner Huston they want 40.000 offer him 34.000 and see what happens--you wont lose AL

 

[artiststan]

Jays69bird ... thats the car I bought.. the green one you posted link to.. now I'm worried about the unbody and frame issues since John posted what he did about such issues.

 

[Ranger]

The truth is.... The car is only original once.... and the more originality the car has, the more expensive it will probably be.

Remember, these were just cars once upon a time.

Truer words where never spoken.

 

[jays69bird]

Jays69bird ... thats the car I bought.. the green one you posted link to.. now I'm worried about the unbody and frame issues since John posted what he did about such issues.

Well he did show some under carriage shots, I don't know the car. There is a green 69 I know off but it is an automatic. The car looks sound and with all the documentation I think you will be okay. Price was reasonable so I figured it would get snatched up.

 

[jays69bird]

just looked on c list and there is a nice ragtop 4sp road runner Huston they want 40.000 offer him 34.000 and see what happens--you wont lose ALView attachment 8298

Love the picture on your profile, read a story about Wild Bill and "Roaddog" in Walneck's years ago.

 

[tallhair]

Just to add a little to the discussion Chrysler started putting the last 7 digits of the VIN on engines and blocks in 1968 but it's on the top center near the temp sending unit where they meet in 68.

 

[pro-streeter]

This is out of your neck of the woods,but close to Big John and me. https://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/4744160298.html
A good example of what is out there. I haven't looked over the car but seems in good shape from the pictures,and it does have documentation.

This I would say is solid from the few pictures posted. I have fully restored 2 383 69 Road Runners nut and bolt all the way. One needed a full trunk quarters and trunk extensions the other more solid with a couple patches only. The paper work is a plus also. IMO $27,500 a little high. The F3 Frost Green my personal favorite color so that said adds personal value for me. Always look at the trunk, rear window corners, trunk extensions. These areas almost always have some level of rust, even cars in dry climates. Should the rear frame rails need replaced that is when I would really shy away unless the price was right to justify replacement. The craiglist pictures look good from what I can see. Overall I think you are in good shape. Lots of ways to recondition engine compartment, interior and chassis items to maintain originality. This should add value. Good Luck. Go to my photo gallery and see the B7 69 383 that I have just abut finished. This is the car that I did the trunk, and quarters on.

 

[artiststan]

Thanks for all the good info Jay. The owner assures me no rust in trunk and frame rails are solid. Paid 26.5k

 

[artiststan]

BTW, that Syracuse CL link Jay posted is the car I bought.

 

[tallhair]

Nice looking car

 

[jays69bird]

This I would say is solid from the few pictures posted. I have fully restored 2 383 69 Road Runners nut and bolt all the way. One needed a full trunk quarters and trunk extensions the other more solid with a couple patches only. The paper work is a plus also. IMO $27,500 a little high. The F3 Frost Green my personal favorite color so that said adds personal value for me. Always look at the trunk, rear window corners, trunk extensions. These areas almost always have some level of rust, even cars in dry climates. Should the rear frame rails need replaced that is when I would really shy away unless the price was right to justify replacement. The craiglist pictures look good from what I can see. Overall I think you are in good shape. Lots of ways to recondition engine compartment, interior and chassis items to maintain originality. This should add value. Good Luck. Go to my photo gallery and see the B7 69 383 that I have just abut finished. This is the car that I did the trunk, and quarters on.

I don't think 27 k is too high for a turn key with matching numbers and documentation. I see clapped out rollers for example, people want 7-10 grand for. Especially 69 Chargers. Unless you can do everything your self you pay more than that for a resto when everything is over and done.

 

[artiststan]

Thanks Jay. I really appreciate all the input!

 

[artiststan]

Here's the car I'm trying to purchase.

 

[rockdog2112]

Looks awesome. Buy it!

 

[artiststan]

Rockdog and others.. posted about another one I am looking at with 440 posi but no matching numbers. I have a deposit on the one above but wanted your opinion on other post about other car, if you have the time. Thanks.

 

[Mr Gorsky]

Yeah, you guys stick to the 69's.....leave the 71-72's alone so we can fly under the radar in a classic that has yet to be fully appreciated

 

[Tempest 455]

"Numbers matching"... I've begun to truly dislike that phrase because it's overused and very misunderstood.

Let's define a couple things first.... In 1969, the gubermint required the car manufactures to place the VIN (vehicle identification number) on several places in and on the car. You have the VIN on the dash, on the radiator yoke and under the trunk gasket. It's also stamped on the engine block and the transmission. It is also on the data plate on the left front fender well.

Part of the "numbers matching" package revolves around that data plate too. The paint color, interior, options, etc. listed on the data plate should match. That is a brown car should be painted brown. A bench seat interior should still be a bench seat interior.... All the options listed should be there and no more.

Then there's the build sheet. If you're lucky, the car still has the build sheet. That sheet is fragile in nature and stuffed under the seat, above the glove box or even in the headliner. It was nothing but scrap paper to the guys on the assembly line and mice don't discriminate about what they chew on, so that's why I say "if you're lucky". Some cars, like a lot of A12 cars, never even had one to begin with.

Now there's the matter of date codes. Just about everything that went into the car had a date code stamped on it. Guys go crazy trying to match the dates on replacement parts to come near the date the car went down the assembly line. That holds true with 68 cars too.

So... a true "numbers matching" car will be one that the engine and trans are original to the car. All options and paint will be correct. The data plate will be intact and hopefully there will be a build sheet. One step above that will have correct date codes on original and replacement parts.

The truth is.... The car is only original once.... and the more originality the car has, the more expensive it will probably be.

Remember, these were just cars once upon a time. Blow an engine? Find a wreck in a junkyard and swap the engine out.... No one cared about matching the numbers for the first 20 years of the car's life. These cars were hot street machines to some and drag cars to others. Lot's of "go fast" stuff got bolted on too and maybe the original stuff got saved and maybe it didn't.

Entirely agree with you on this. I recall pulling the "numbers matching drive train" out of a buddy's 440, 4 spd Track Pak Charger back in the 80's to make it faster. Did that to numerous cars. Nobody cared then about the original parts. In the case of the Charger, thank god he still has the original motor, rear end.

As such, I feel blessed I was able to find a complete numbers matching (and approx 90%) survivor car. Original cars (especially Mopar) are getting very hard to find anymore. Regardless of the year, if its mostly original, jump on it.

 

[tallhair]

Yeah, you guys stick to the 69's.....leave the 71-72's alone so we can fly under the radar in a classic that has yet to be fully appreciated

Yeah i concur .. only one we, Dad and I ever had was a 72 Rallye Charger. I'd like to have a 71 or 2 4 speed RR or GTX one day though