No more idiot...

[sixgunrunner68]

Is there some type of clear aerosal spray that can be applied to aluminum intakes and such to keep the finish from staining?


are you guys wanting pics or are you cool with me just asking a million ??.

Rustoleum makes engine paint. That's what I'm using and so far so good. They make a clear coat that I used on my air filter lid, but I'm not sure how it would work on bare metal. Might be an option.??? Most clears I've seen sprayed on metal tend to "yellow" and flake though. You could powder coat it, that would work. :cents:

 

[ACME A12]

Is there some type of clear aerosal spray that can be applied to aluminum intakes and such to keep the finish from staining?


are you guys wanting pics or are you cool with me just asking a million ??.

Rustoleum makes engine paint. That's what I'm using and so far so good. They make a clear coat that I used on my air filter lid, but I'm not sure how it would work on bare metal. Might be an option.??? Most clears I've seen sprayed on metal tend to "yellow" and flake though. You could powder coat it, that would work. :cents:

I was going to suggest that you just buy the intake with the ENDURASHINE finish but I see that Edelbrock has yet to add that option for the BB MoPar intakes. Chebbie-lovin'-A$$hats.

I have used the VHT clear with what I would consider to be pretty good results. I used it on the 340 in my '74 Duster about 5 years ago. No detectable yellowing so far. Knock on wood. I used their SP148 primer first and then the SP120 Hemi Orange. Then I bolted the intake on and finished the completed long block in SP145 Gloss Clear. They have another clear, "SP29 Motor Brite Clear Engine Enamel", but I have no experience with this one.

The only negative I noticed with the VHT primer/color/clear system was that if you chipped the paint - like I did at the back of the engine when mating the tranny up - you get one helluva thick paint chip because all three came off in one chunk. :cents:

 

[moparchris]

I have a few questions for you.

1 what trans? auto or stick?
2 Whats done to the motor?
3 What gear is in it?
4 Whats your driving style (for instance I love to rev the pee outta mine)?
5 What compression is the motor?
6 Do the pistons have valve reliefs?

 

[wannarunner]

1 what trans? auto or stick? 727
2 Whats done to the motor? stock
3 What gear is in it? 323
4 Whats your driving style (for instance I love to rev the pee outta mine)? between lame and rowdy
5 What compression is the motor? stock 383 Mopar....anywhere between 8.75--->9.50 ??
6 Do the pistons have valve reliefs? I've yet to yank the heads, I am soon.....

 

[wannarunner]

Is there some type of clear aerosal spray that can be applied to aluminum intakes and such to keep the finish from staining?


are you guys wanting pics or are you cool with me just asking a million ??.

Rustoleum makes engine paint. That's what I'm using and so far so good. They make a clear coat that I used on my air filter lid, but I'm not sure how it would work on bare metal. Might be an option.??? Most clears I've seen sprayed on metal tend to "yellow" and flake though. You could powder coat it, that would work. :cents:

I was going to suggest that you just buy the intake with the ENDURASHINE finish but I see that Edelbrock has yet to add that option for the BB MoPar intakes. Chebbie-lovin'-A$$hats.

I have used the VHT clear with what I would consider to be pretty good results. I used it on the 340 in my '74 Duster about 5 years ago. No detectable yellowing so far. Knock on wood. I used their SP148 primer first and then the SP120 Hemi Orange. Then I bolted the intake on and finished the completed long block in SP145 Gloss Clear. They have another clear, "SP29 Motor Brite Clear Engine Enamel", but I have no experience with this one.

The only negative I noticed with the VHT primer/color/clear system was that if you chipped the paint - like I did at the back of the engine when mating the tranny up - you get one helluva thick paint chip because all three came off in one chunk. :cents:

AutoZone has some supposedly non-yellowing clear for aluminum, I'll give it a try and let ya know.

 

[mcmopar]

Is there some type of clear aerosal spray that can be applied to aluminum intakes and such to keep the finish from staining?


are you guys wanting pics or are you cool with me just asking a million ??.

I've had my RPM and 750 Holley installed for 8 years now and the intake is unstained. All I ever need to do is rarely shoot it with some carb spray and wipe it with a paper towel and it looks like new. I would suggest a Holley with 4 corner idle capability to smooth out the idle a little bit. A buddy of mine modded my 750 in order to put a primary metering plate on the secondary side it and it runs smoother at idle than it used to. Makes for finer tuning. The 268 cam is a fine choice BTW.

 

[ACME A12]

Mrs. ACME was looking for some pictures tonight and stumbled accross these. They were buried in folder in a folder. Here are the pics of the VHT usage I described:

 

[wannarunner]

Nice!

 

[69hemibeep]

Mrs. ACME was looking for some pictures tonight and stumbled accross these. They were buried in folder in a folder. Here are the pics of the VHT usage I described:

Look at that little bitty starter :basketcase:

 

[ACME A12]

Mrs. ACME was looking for some pictures tonight and stumbled accross these. They were buried in folder in a folder. Here are the pics of the VHT usage I described:

Look at that little bitty starter :basketcase:

The ONLY way to fly...

 

[moparchris]

1 what trans? auto or stick? 727
2 Whats done to the motor? stock
3 What gear is in it? 323
4 Whats your driving style (for instance I love to rev the pee outta mine)? between lame and rowdy
5 What compression is the motor? stock 383 Mopar....anywhere between 8.75--->9.50 ??
6 Do the pistons have valve reliefs? I've yet to yank the heads, I am soon.....

Okay, with this info I think the Comp XE268 is the right choice and a 750 Holley vacuum secondaries (3310) is the way to fly. With the 3.23s and stock 727 the vacuum secondaries will be great just get the quick change secondary spring housing and put the lightest spring in for faster secondary response. The cam will need to be on the smaller side due to the low compression and possible lack of valve reliefs. That will be a good running low 14 second car IMHO. :cents:

 

[Zapa]

I've run several Comp XE cams and although I love them I strongly recomend against them if you're planning to use stock springs. They have a steep grind. I dont want to contradict anyones experiences here just giving my own. I raced for many years and built and rebuilt many engines. I broke a handful of 6pack springs in a 340 with less than 300miles with a XE. If you google it I'd bet a buffalo nickle you'd find alot of similar experiences.

Personally I would not build a street car without a hydraulic roller. They are so worth the extra $$ for what you gain. I'm very partial to lunati voodoo hyd rollers.
For a step above stock LUNATI PART NUMBER #60311 270/278. If you want a lumpy idle go alittle longer in the duration, this is also going to push your power band into the higher RPM range and give you the need for a higher sthal converter than stock if you get too carried away. So I would stay under 285 adv Duration if you're planning on keeping a stock converter. The geat thing about Lunati is you can call them and tell them all the specs of your motor/trans/gears/weight/converter and what you want to do and they will make you an optimized camshaft. You dont need to buy those "off the shelf" grinds if you don't want.

Just my :cents:

 

[mcmopar]

If you are going to run a certain manufacturer's cam it is a wise idea to also run their recommended springs, retainers and locks. With the XE series you may also need to machine down the tops of the guides and install teflon seals (Comp will tell you on their website if this needs to be done - for this cam I am pretty sure this is recommended). You can also call Comp's techline and they can custom grind you a cam if you want them to - just about any cam grinder can, and will, do this.
Zapa - did you machine down the tops of the guides when you installed the springs and install teflon seals? If not, the bottoms of the retainers were no doubt hitting the tops of the valve guides and causing the breakage. I'm running the XE High Lift series (XE275HL-10) which does require the tops of the guides to be machined down and teflon seals installed. I used everything in the valvetrain Comp recommended. Haven't had a problem since the installation back in 2003.

There are lots of good cams out there but I'd stick with Comp, Lunati or Hughes. All of them are using the "fast ramp" technology. I would not touch Mopar Performance Parts options with a 10 foot pole since they carry no warranty whatsoever.

Chris - I'm with you on just about everything - except using the lightest spring right off the bat. For performance tuning I'd start with the standard spring and go lighter from there. The lightest spring might cause a bog - especially with a stock converter and 3.23 gears.
For highway use I'd go stiffer on the spring just to keep the secondaries out of it up to say 70-80 mph in order to get something like "economy" out of it.

 

[Zapa]

Zapa - did you machine down the tops of the guides when you installed the springs and install teflon seals? If not, the bottoms of the retainers were no doubt hitting the tops of the valve guides and causing the breakage. I'm running the XE High Lift series (XE275HL-10) which does require the tops of the guides to be machined down and teflon seals installed. I used everything in the valvetrain Comp recommended. Haven't had a problem since the installation back in 2003.

Aye. the heads got the works all accept the springs. I had allready bought new valves/ seals/ and had the machine work done to the heads. I had a more aggressive cam picked out but not purchased. Nearing the end of the engine build I ran out of funds and had to rework the strategy. Went with a smaller cam as advised by my machinist that would allow me to keep the stock springs and stay within budget. It was a double whammy $$ wise because it also allowed me to run an off the shelf converter and save bigger. I talked to a few mopar guys at the track cam card in hand after it happened and all agreed that the springs should have held up under that lift. I looked into it and have found quite a few others with the same problem. I shouldn't be comparing apples to oranges with my small block experience, but i've read of issues across the board with people who both yanked the radiator and water pump and slammed a cam in without a thought, and those who did the proper machine work running chevy,ford,and mopar big and small.

That stuff was part of my expensive car education. Now there are few aftermarket cams that i will run stock springs with. Even if i'm putting in newer less fatigued metal thats just a stock replacement spring I almost always replace them with any cam upgrade. On the same note I don't run nasty triple springs with step above stock cam.