One more Head/Gasket question?

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a6t9vette

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Keep in mind this is my first time doing a head gasket job. When looking at the new gasket compared to the block/head it seems as if some of the coolant ports will be blocked by the gasket, in two areas:

See pictures:
1) near the top of the block, 3 holes diagonally above "middle row" of head bolt holes, the gasket partially covers these with a slot rather then a hole.

2) near the bottom of the block, large coolant filled holes are blocked by the gasket, but I assume this is correct since the Head does not have a coolant port that aligns with these.

Hind side I wouldnt have thrown out the old gasket so I could have compared. I doubled cheked the fel Pro p/n and its correct to my block. I just dont want to find out I have a prob after I have the engine all back together. I cant imagine I have to modify the gasket, but my item #1 just doesnt seem right.

Thanks
 
i would double check the part numbers with the parts store to make sure its for what you have...if its correct put her together...there must be a reason for that like slowing down the water flow..and another question....did you blow this gasket and did it overheat?? if so i would bring it to a machine shop to check to see if its warped....sometimes double checking to true up your head will save you time and money in the long run.....been there done that :toetap: :toetap: :toetap:
 
When I put the engine together for my car I used the same gaskets. They work just fine and no problems with coolant flow. Like George said though be sure it didn't overheat the block or you could be waisting your money and time. If it did not overheat, screw it together. :thumbsup:
 
I didnt have any issues with the old gasket as least not that I aware of. The only reason why I pulled the head was so I could extract a broken exhaust manifold bolt. I read the p/n directly off the gasket and looked at Summit for head gaskets for a 69 383 and found that p/n as the correct item for that motor (as well as many other years), so I had assumed they were correct. These gaskets were in a full engine gasket kit I got.
I was guessing/hoping it was just to slow flow down, but seemed strange to use slots instead of a hole.
Ken glad to hear you used something similar, that at least gives me some confidence in bolting it all back together.

Bob
 
When I put my 383 back together in '03 the kit I had included Victor head gaskets. Same situation - slot instead of a hole. Same on my Charger's 440 head gaskets (Fel-Pro) back in the '90's. I've never had a problem using them.
 
Thanks for all the input guys, head is on with no issues. I cleaned up the threads on the bolts, and the block before I installed to make sure I got good toqrue readings, that seemed to work good as they were all nice and smooth going in.

Now my next question. The new valley pan gasket I got has four intake gaskets with it, I know when I took off the intake there wasnt one above the valley pan (on the head) and one above the valley pan (to the intake). Should there be two on each side?
 
I never got gaskets with a vally pan. just the bare pan with rtv in the corners.
 
If I use the gaskets I only use them between the head and the intake as this makes it somewhat easier to remove the valley gasket if it ever becomes necessary. I will put some RTV on the bottom of the valley gasket around the ports to attach the paper gasket and some on the top of the valley gasket around the ports to seal the intake manifold to the valley gasket. I DO NOT put RTV on the bottom of the paper gasket or on the head surface. This makes removal of the intake a breeze in the event you have to yank it off.

If I don't use the paper gasket I put RTV around the ports on each side (upper intake and lower head mating surfaces) to help seal against oil leaks. I also use some in the corners and under the front and back rails to prevent oil leaks. I have found that if you try to use paper gaskets on top and bottom of the valley pan gasket (sandwich style) it makes it difficult to install the intake because there is too much thickness under the intake and you can't line up the bolt holes very easily.
 
What everyone else said, no gaskets on the valley pan but make sure to put silicone in all 4 corners where the heads meet the block. Let it tack up for a few minutes before you drop the intake on. Should'nt have any oil leaks if you do this. Dont be afraid to use the rtv either. :thumbsup:
 
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