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Pulling Motor and Trans

BBillyC

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One quick question for the experts. What is the best way to pull the motor out....drop the trans first or yard the two of them out together. Never pulled one out of an RR before. Grille, rad, fenders, hood, manifold and headers are off. Mounts are loosened, but if it all will come out in one pull that would save alot of effort. Thanks Bill
 

george68hemirr

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pull it all...its the easiest way to do it.....i use one of those adjustable bar hook set-up so you can change your picking points with the turn of a threaded bolt....then you can tip it easier to hoist it out.....its better then laying on the floor and dropping the tranny first....also hook it up as close to the motor as possible so you have the head room to get her out
 

Big John

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I've done it both ways, but lifting the two out together is easier.
 

mcmopar

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Just be sure to put some plastic bags (secured tightly) on the end of the trans tailshaft or you are going to have tranny fluid all over the place when you start to pull it all out!
 

Basketcase

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I've done it both ways, but especially with a 4 gear(especially putting back together) it's a lot easier to pull'm together.
 

ACME A12

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As I have a lift in my shop, my opinion won't count much here but I prefer to drop everything out the bottom on the K-Member...I hardly ever use the cherry picker method on anything anymore except on non-Mopar junk. But if I have to, I do them together unless there is a giant oil pan or some other similar consideration to be addressed. :cents:

Ray
 

Confederate1969

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Down in Memphis, the only folks with hydraulic lifts are auto repair shops. The rest of us have to do it the old fashioned way and yank out the parts one at a time with the cherry picker. My best friend and I disconnected the engine from the trans and pulled the engine by itself first. It was MUCH easier to put the engine on the stand quickly when we already had everything off of it. Easy enough to roll the trans out from under the car afterwards.
 

SomeCarGuy

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I always had trouble getting enough ballast together and a stou enough cherry picker to do a 440/727. I haven't tried a 4 speed like that. I just start with the trans anymore.

BTW, drain ALL fluids. ALL. Things have a way of biting you in the ass even if you think you have the deal covered.
 

Big John

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SomeCarGuy said:
I always had trouble getting enough ballast together and a stou enough cherry picker to do a 440/727. I haven't tried a 4 speed like that. I just start with the trans anymore.

BTW, drain ALL fluids. ALL. Things have a way of biting you in the ass even if you think you have the deal covered.

Yep... Did you guys know that snow is good to use on the floor when you spill a few quarts of tranny fluid?
 

ACME A12

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Big John said:
Did you guys know that snow is good to use on the floor when you spill a few quarts of tranny fluid?

I know that's what I use. Bob probably does too. Same for MC, Moose, Rebel, John (Houston John), and all of the rest of us below the Mason-Dixon Line... Best case scenario is to use some that has been freshly salted and cleared by a Road Grader - then when it melts & disappears it leaves absolutely no residue behind... :lol:

Just Kidding of course. Leave my avatar ranking alone, please... :D

:jester:
ACME
 

Roadcuda

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moparstuart said:
the snow we have around here right now is way to expensive to be just throwing on the floor :jester: :jester: :jester:
I'm NOT, going to ask what kind of snow that may be! :devil:
 

BBillyC

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Well I went at it with a cherry picker and it came out trans and all with no problem what so ever. Now the engine compartment and firewall are all painted and the motor is all apart. Now I have even bigger problems....a high compression 383, 12.5-1 engine that was built very well in the eighties but it needs a compression reduction and a better cam. It is .030 over now and the intake valve is 2.05 but the lift is only .440. Pistons are TRW, the 906 heads have been milled to 67cc. I could tuck the pistons to lower compression, so I thought get a higher lift cam which would necessitate chopping something out of the pistons to lower the compression...killing two birds with one stone. Problem it is now balanced and blue printed and soon as I get relief on the pistons I lose the balance. So to make it more snotty on the street and able to run on regular pump fuel the big question "is what would all you guys do" given the same situation. What makes a 383 really tick. Thanks for all your help guys.
 

mcmopar

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My situation is somewhat similar to yours. When I got my car back in 2000 (sold it in '88) I discovered it had '67 closed chamber heads which made me happy as I always had wanted a set. The problem was the car would not run on ANY grade of pump gas without severe pinging. When I took the car apart to do some much needed freshening up I disassembled the engine down to the short block and discovered to my amazement that the reason for the pinging was a set of TRW domed 11:1 (or better) forged race pistons (# L2293 - .030 over). I also noticed tell tale sings of balancing on the bottom end (grinding on the rod end caps, etc). Not wanting to spend the $$$ for a new set of pistons I went with a set of open chamber 452 heads which were fitted with 2.14/1.81 valves, generous porting and a very mild milling (.010") to flatten the mounting surface. The final volume size is 88cc. We figured that the compression ratio is now somewhere around 10.5:1.

Knowing that I needed a somewhat healthy cam to bleed off some of the cylinder pressure I opted for the Comp XE275HL-10. Specs are 231/237 @ .050 with .525" lift and a 110 degree c/l (with my 1.6 roller rockers the lift is up to .560"). It pulls between 9.5 - 10.5 in. of vacuum at idle. Now that everything is set up it runs like a champ on 87 octane fuel. Since your setup is a bit wilder on the compression I am concerned that you may not be able to get by on any grade of pump gas without a lead additive such as Max Lead 2000. Also of deep concern is the fact that you have shaved a lot off your heads, (I hope you also took off .0125" of material on the intake mounting face for every .010" removed from the combustion chamber side also or else your intake manifold bolt alignment will be hosed), which will indeed reduce your piston to valve clearance. You will most likely need valve notches in the pistons if you are running flat top pistons. The L2293 TRW's I have are designed for big valve lifts so if you are running this piston you should be ok with a cam in the .500" lift range. Also important to note is that it is not just lift that will cause piston to valve clearance problems in the BB Mopar engine. Duration also plays a big part in this as well. Back in the day, Chrysler's engine bulletins recommended that valve notches in the pistons were mandatory with the use of any cam that had an advertised duration of greater than 286 degrees. These days duration is measured at 0.50" lift so you should consult with a cam manufacturer's tech line to see what they recommend for your setup. Also keep in mind that the heads will have to have the valve guides machined down so that you can run a higher lift cam. You'll also need teflon seals for the valve guides.
I'd highly recommend calling Lunati, Comp and Hughes Engines to see what they might be able to do for you in terms of camshaft selection. The tech line guys are pretty sharp and should be able to help you make the best choice.

Check out this article on a 383 build - it might help some:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html
 

69hemibeep

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The heads might be an issue, if the pistons are domed you can have some of the dome milled off depending on how thick the dome is and then go with a nice thick Felpro gasket. And as said before duration in the cam helps. Just some ideas
 

BBillyC

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Thanks guys. Bigger problems plague me. The thrust bearing on main journal 3 is screwed so bad it dug into the crank. Now not only new pistons but crank as well and throw in a cam and solid lifters for something else to do. Cranks hard to find here. I am going to an auto wrecker to see if I can find one that is useable otherwise it will be some aftermarket unit that will price me out of the market.

Donsidering the crank issue I guess all I have now are the block and heads the rest is open for alteration. Thanks again. Bill
 

Basketcase

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BBillyC said:
Thanks guys. Bigger problems plague me. The thrust bearing on main journal 3 is screwed so bad it dug into the crank. Now not only new pistons but crank as well and throw in a cam and solid lifters for something else to do. Cranks hard to find here. I am going to an auto wrecker to see if I can find one that is useable otherwise it will be some aftermarket unit that will price me out of the market.

Donsidering the crank issue I guess all I have now are the block and heads the rest is open for alteration. Thanks again. Bill


be sure to check out the engine parts for sale on moparts. on page one , there are 383 & 440 cranks from $35 to $150.
 
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