Roof Skin

I would use fiber all first because it’s water proof and way easier to sand
 
What are you leading in. I used All metal on the roof and quarter area. Know some people are not found of that product. Make sure there is enough ruffing of the primer so it will stick well. Had a problem trying to get things to flow like I wanted it too. Use a piece of 3/8 inch plastic fuel line to drag from the window channel to the pop out window that made the shape perfect. Then not much sanding to finish the job there. East wood sold me a solder that flows like Lead. Suppose to be stronger than Lead. I wish that I had welded the upper cowl to my A Piller or brazed that area with brass. The car really flexes there when jacking up the car because of the weight of the motor in the car. Doing a good job, it looks like. Had bought that pinch welder from Harbor freight and found it was helpful in tight areas. Around the back window and front window pinch weld at the top and down the sides.

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Russ69Runner said:
What are you leading in. I used All metal on the roof and quarter area. Know some people are not found of that product. Make sure there is enough ruffing of the primer so it will stick well. Had a problem trying to get things to flow like I wanted it too. Use a piece of 3/8 inch plastic fuel line to drag from the window channel to the pop out window that made the shape perfect. Then not much sanding to finish the job there. East wood sold me a solder that flows like Lead. Suppose to be stronger than Lead. I wish that I had welded the upper cowl to my A Piller or brazed that area with brass. The car really flexes there when jacking up the car because of the weight of the motor in the car. Doing a good job, it looks like. Had bought that pinch welder from Harbor freight and found it was helpful in tight areas. Around the back window and front window pinch weld at the top and down the sides.

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I'm leading in where the top of the quarter panel and the roof skin come together. The lead kit from Eastwood is backordered and they want over 150 for the kit. You do good work, Russ.
 
I welded that area with more spot welds. Then used that All metal for the filler. It is not moving or popping out as of 2000 plus miles on the car. Know some guy's use tiger hair fiber glass in that spot. The solider that east wood sold me is Higher in tensile strength over the lead. Still have to tin that area so it will stick. Found that I could use my heat gun and heat a putty knife to shape the solider. I also am retired or would not have been able to be spent 5 years working on my car. Wish you the best of luck.
 
Russ69Runner said:
I welded that area with more spot welds. Then used that All metal for the filler. It is not moving or popping out as of 2000 plus miles on the car. Know some guy's use tiger hair fiber glass in that spot. The solider that east wood sold me is Higher in tensile strength over the lead. Still have to tin that area so it will stick. Found that I could use my heat gun and heat a putty knife to shape the solider. I also am retired or would not have been able to be spent 5 years working on my car. Wish you the best of luck.
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I appreciate you telling me how you did it. Your car is very nice and I've seen your showcase so I know you know what you re talking about. I hope mine will turn out as nice as yours. My rear crossmember showed up today so I will be starting back on the trunk pans/outer wheel wells/quarter panels
 
I will say I don't know everything just had to learn as I went along. Would not want to do body work for a living. Turned down many a friend that has seen what I did with the runner as for body work and painting their car. I tell them get the cold beer and I will come over and supervise. LOL Keep up the work looking grate. Just my two cents'. Buddy. :drinks:
 
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