• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Should I expect this much attention?

pinkpanthr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
259
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
Most excellent advice , to bad you live so far away. I know what you mean about getting the right car and doing the work yourself . I spent way more on my car then I wanted to just so I could avoid doing those kind of repairs. I saw this show or video a while back where this guy was doing a little work on a quarter panel and discovered that the last guy just tack welded the replacement panel right over the old panel , he was not a happy camper , a lot of "F" bombs !

I installed my driver side skin twice. The first time I forgot to fit it with the quarter extension in place and had the rear of the panel too far in. Cost me another skin and some lost time but thats what it takes to get it right.
 

69383RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
447
Reaction score
0
Location
up state vermont
You said you had some popping and backfire going on , same here . And I still have the ignition switch problem where the engine doesn't fire up until you let go of the key into the run position . So I'm going to bite the bullet and rent a trailer and haul my baby forty miles to the Quentin brothers , best mopar specialist and all around hot rod builders in all of Vermont . We have done all that we can with our limited knowledge . Its time to call in the big guns . I want a nice reliable driver that starts right up every time and shuts off when you pull the key out , and stops and go's when it should without back firing . I know this is going to coast a small fortune but that's why the experts get paid the big bucks . I talked to the head man at the shop and he said they can take care of all the little problems I described to him which is reassuring . I will post the outcome in detail if anyone is interested
 

pinkpanthr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
259
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
You said you had some popping and backfire going on , same here . And I still have the ignition switch problem where the engine doesn't fire up until you let go of the key into the run position . So I'm going to bite the bullet and rent a trailer and haul my baby forty miles to the Quentin brothers , best mopar specialist and all around hot rod builders in all of Vermont . We have done all that we can with our limited knowledge . Its time to call in the big guns . I want a nice reliable driver that starts right up every time and shuts off when you pull the key out , and stops and go's when it should without back firing . I know this is going to coast a small fortune but that's why the experts get paid the big bucks . I talked to the head man at the shop and he said they can take care of all the little problems I described to him which is reassuring . I will post the outcome in detail if anyone is interested

My popping was timing related. If you're too far advanced it will cause the backfire and will cause run on (continues running after key is shut off). When you say that the car doesn't start until the ignition is released, is the starter cranking or does it just not do anything until you release the key? Cause that just sounds like a bad Ignition switch. Before you spend the money I'd try retarding the timing a bit and see what that does for your backfiring. Your rotor button spins counter clockwise so turn the distributor that direction slowly. Do you have a timing light?
 

Big John

Sit back, relax Don't bitch about the cigar smoke
Joined
Sep 8, 2008
Messages
5,057
Reaction score
79
90% of carb problems are electrical.
 

4spd69RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
990
Reaction score
7
Location
Winter Springs, FL.
Every time I take mine out of the garage, somebody stops to take a look. So I guess you better get use to it.
 

69383RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
447
Reaction score
0
Location
up state vermont
Yes we have a timing light , yes the starter turns when the key is in the start position. There is six pages on this problem in the archives here on this forum and I don't think the poor guy ever did find out how to fix the problem . Just one of those things.
 
Last edited:

Basketcase

Keeper of the Green
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
14,415
Reaction score
299
Every time I take mine out of the garage, somebody stops to take a look. So I guess you better get use to it.

that's cause they're thinking "just think how sweet that car would look if he'd only painted it green"..:acme::acme::acme:
 

moparmonk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
330
Reaction score
0
Location
Hermon, Maine
Hey 69383RR. I noticed you said something about not running in the crank postition. Did you check your ballast resistor on the firewall? The purpose of that is to limit (lower) the voltage to the ignition system, while the engine is running. While the engine is cranking to start, the voltage from the battery to crank the strater motor drops as it is a very large load. In the crank position, battery voltage is fed through the ignition switch bypassing the ballast resistor and to coil for more voltage for faster, better ignition starts. Check the wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor and don't forget the connection at the firewall. This is some times referred to the "Ignition 2" or "Hot While Cranking". Of course, if you have an aftermarket ignition, that may be different but I think it would be similar. According to the FSM. the Q terminal at the firewall is the brown wire and the "hot while cranking" wire. The other terminal on the ballast resistor appears to be the dark blue wire and goes to the N terminal at the firewall try putting a test light or voltmeter red or hot probe on each side of the balllast resistor. It should have a higher voltage on one side by a couple volts. The higher of the 2 should be the one that goes to the coil. It still could be the ignition switch but check your connections first. I hope this helps.
 

Basketcase

Keeper of the Green
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
14,415
Reaction score
299
I thought this ws found out to be a couple of switched wires, or was this someone else?
 

inri

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
447
Reaction score
0
that's cause they're thinking "just think how sweet that car would look if he'd only painted it green"..:acme::acme::acme:

I don't know what your fetish is with the color of sewage? :frog:
 

69383RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
447
Reaction score
0
Location
up state vermont
Hey 69383RR. I noticed you said something about not running in the crank postition. Did you check your ballast resistor on the firewall? The purpose of that is to limit (lower) the voltage to the ignition system, while the engine is running. While the engine is cranking to start, the voltage from the battery to crank the strater motor drops as it is a very large load. In the crank position, battery voltage is fed through the ignition switch bypassing the ballast resistor and to coil for more voltage for faster, better ignition starts. Check the wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor and don't forget the connection at the firewall. This is some times referred to the "Ignition 2" or "Hot While Cranking". Of course, if you have an aftermarket ignition, that may be different but I think it would be similar. According to the FSM. the Q terminal at the firewall is the brown wire and the "hot while cranking" wire. The other terminal on the ballast resistor appears to be the dark blue wire and goes to the N terminal at the firewall try putting a test light or voltmeter red or hot probe on each side of the balllast resistor. It should have a higher voltage on one side by a couple volts. The higher of the 2 should be the one that goes to the coil. It still could be the ignition switch but check your connections first. I hope this helps.

We are using a Mallory Unilite distributor and their ignition coil which doesn't require a ballast resistor . If you google unilite distributor you will find a lot of fellows on all kinds of car sights complaining about this system . If its not just right it will give you all kinds of problems , and it has . I found a mopar guy who's coming over to take a look at the situation , hopefully he can figure it out. I will pay close attention and post the results . Thank you all for your input .
 
Last edited:

Basketcase

Keeper of the Green
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
14,415
Reaction score
299
I have a regular electronic distributer I pulled from my car(old school prefer points) that's just gathering dust if you decided to ditch the Mallory.
 

69383RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
447
Reaction score
0
Location
up state vermont
defiantly something to think about :yesnod: I'm not worried about it , we'll get her done one way or another .
thanks , Tom
 

Basketcase

Keeper of the Green
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
14,415
Reaction score
299
just one word? you can do better than that.....:D
 

4spd69RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
990
Reaction score
7
Location
Winter Springs, FL.
Nope! that's why they stop and look, they never seen a white one before. Just watch it, you,..... Since we don't have camel fleas here in Florida; may all the central Florida chiggers attack your nether region. How's that?
 

Basketcase

Keeper of the Green
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
14,415
Reaction score
299
I'll get some sand fleas headed you're way asap!:D

here's a white one that belongs to the buddy that;s painting mine.

IMAG0014.jpg
 

pinkpanthr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
259
Reaction score
0
Location
Kentucky
That is sweet, black vinyl top, nice. So after seeing this beauty are you going to change paint color idea.

If he doesn't I might! It's hard to beat a white car with black top. I still haven't decided what color mine will be. The problem is these cars just look so damn good in every color.:beep:
 
Back
Top