spary painting the dash panel

Russ69Runner

Russ69Runner

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I bought the paint from the company in CA. When spraying it did you have to thin the paint at all. It is a lacquer paint. What primer did you use on the metal before spraying it on. Thanks for any info on what you might have done. Russ :thumbsup2:
 
E71D746D-1513-4595-870B-AC4B238FEB28.jpeg Only thing I’m aware of Russ is when painting over acrylic with lacquer or vice-verse the paint has a good chance of crinkling if too much applied during spraying. Once in awhile it does settle down. Lacquer though can provide a really nice finish, may want to clear coat; dash was a dull or semi-gloss if I recall, not shiny anyways.

Same idea for wide black stripes on hood, to cut down on glare. Was doing same on B-17’s, WWII and others. Have seen a dark green also used on locomotive hoods.
 
Ive gone over the metal no primer just as the factory did. I did use some rust-oleum rust converter in a couple of spots on the last one I did, didn't bother the lacquer
 
That is good to know Bob. Nothing worst than to have paint rejection. Like wrinkles in the top coat. Or it just start to lift off. I did check with my paint supply store and a painter friend of mine and said the epoxy would not be rejected by the Lacquer paint. Thanks for the advice. Russ. :thumbsup2:
 
When talking to Dave At Performance Car Graphics, he told me that he puts on a light coat of textured finish paint under the color coat on the dash frame and steering column to give it the right amount of texture.
 
Yes I did that. I also called TCP Global and got instruction's on how to thin it for spraying. Thanks for the info. Russ.:thumbsup2:
 
Rich B said:
View attachment 28840 Only thing I’m aware of Russ is when painting over acrylic with lacquer or vice-verse the paint has a good chance of crinkling if too much applied during spraying. Once in awhile it does settle down. Lacquer though can provide a really nice finish, may want to clear coat; dash was a dull or semi-gloss if I recall, not shiny anyways.

Same idea for wide black stripes on hood, to cut down on glare. Was doing same on B-17’s, WWII and others. Have seen a dark green also used on locomotive hoods.
Click to expand...
you want the dash to be matte finish not shiny or you will get reflection on windshield.
 
droptop said:
When talking to Dave At Performance Car Graphics, he told me that he puts on a light coat of textured finish paint under the color coat on the dash frame and steering column to give it the right amount of texture.
Click to expand...
 
I just priced that 1968 only maroon suede for a customer $190 a pint yikes. I know reds cost more but $120 more a pint.
 
Is that after market AC you have or original. Just was looking at the vent's under dash. Have bought classic auto air to put into mine.
 
My customer is willing to pop for the paint. The suede finish is to cut the glare down there should be no gloss at all. jww69RRpost the dash looks nice but not what my guy is after
 
How well do you like the AC unit. Dose it do a good job. Got one due to the other company you had to loose part of the glove box area. I did not like that idea at all. :thumbsup2:
 
First, I tried to get a good idea of the factory finish by looking under the dash pads where the finish was preserved. In the Plymouth shop manual, the paint code is listed but with visits to multiple paint stores I determined that no one makes it anymore. So I sandblasted the dash and painted it with a black epoxy primer. Then a few coats of SEM trim black from a spray can. Then 1 coat sprayed from about 3 feet away so it went on dry. Looks perfect in color and texture!
 
TCP Global has it. But it is not cheap. It is a lacquer paint. 2 to 3 coats is what it recommended on the can. Lets see some pic's. I over thinned mine so gave it three coats. It looked good then. Russ.
 
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