The back window quest goes on.

Hi Russ,
Not sure where you are located but I do have an extra rear glass that I removed from a Road Runner a long time ago. I was holding it in case I broke my original during removal or install. Luckily I didn’t need it, I’m willing to sell it. I’m in Baltimore, Md. , let me know if you’re interested. Good luck.
 
brianz426 said:
Hi Russ,
Not sure where you are located but I do have an extra rear glass that I removed from a Road Runner a long time ago. I was holding it in case I broke my original during removal or install. Luckily I didn’t need it, I’m willing to sell it. I’m in Baltimore, Md. , let me know if you’re interested. Good luck.
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Thanks for the offer. I do have one that is in pretty good shape and took it to the glass guy to have one made. If they don't get one made will be trying to use it over what they are trying to make for me. Thanks again Russ.
 
Finally got around to testing the fit of the rear window. I ended up ditching the rubber blocks that came with the kit and did my own. I used rubber pads made from sheet rubber. I have several thicknesses of EPDM rubber and used that to get the height of the glass pretty even around the perimeter. Then I used the same rubber material to make spacers to make sure the gap was even all the way around. I then glued these in with 3m weather-strip adhesive and will lay the Butyl caulk in and around that when installation time comes. See attached. The glass is floating on these pads, cannot touch metal anywhere and would appear to be free of stress. Hopefully that should do it.

The one place I am running close is on both sides of the glass and up about 12" from the corners. The clips will barely fit and would like to get more clearance. Has anybody ever ground this glass before? I may call around and see if any glass shops will do this.

BTW, I am using AMK clips and are a bit different from what Russ used from the first post. They seem to be a better design. You can get them from Detroit Muscle.

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WWheeler did not see the clip's. Are they stainless steel. Year one has them and some one said they where thinner. Big block did some sanding on his. But you can not go more than half the thickness of the glass. Or the glass will shatter and release the energy in the tempered glass. I see classic sell's a rubber tape for the edges of the glass. Good job buddy. Let's see the sail panel edge of the glass. Just curios of where you are tight.
 
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologi...-roadrunner-rear-window-reveal-trim-clip-set/

C-8001 is the rear and C-8000 is the front. The reason I know these are AMK is because that is their number. You can search for it on AMK's site. I have already test fit my molding with these clips and it works just fine. The rubber tape is a good idea.

The tight spot is about 4" above the beginning of the green tape on the left. The right side is the same issue. The glass pattern is good on top and bottom, but has too much curve on the sides and gets too close to the clips at that point as noted above.

I have an old vent window glass piece I am going to experiment filing on. I have a diamond file coming from McMaster. Yes, I have read about the challenges with dealing with tempered glass. Go S-L-O-W and no heat.
 
Had water going on mine while using a sander. Had powder coming off when first sanding then went in shard's. Like I have been told by the glass guy's their is a crust on the edge about the thick ness of the glass that is harder than the rest of the glass. They say you can cut about half of the thickness but after that your in the danger area. Yes mine had plenty of room up top and bottom. Just the sides like you tighten up. Keep me advised of how it goes. Russ.
 
Good to know about tempered area. That is the same way when heat treating metals. So the glass is about 3/16" thick. All I really wanted to take off was about a 1/16". That should clear the clip and screw and use the rubber tape as you mentioned. It will be close, but so is everything I do on this car. I should be able to try the vent glass next Tuesday.
 
That did not have a thing to do with bracing. It happened when the quarters where out of shape form the factory. Their mold's are not keep up to standard's. If you don't get out of bed you never do any thing wrong. That is what I was told a long time ago. The trunk fit grate. All the door's fit well. Pop out window's went in fine. The dutch man's panel went in well. I am not the only one having this problem. Know of three other people with the same problem. So their is a glass being made rite now to fit. It is custom made to fit the hole. So lesson learned. NOT EVERY ONE IS PERFECT LIKE YOU. Tell me what you have messed up on and don't say you never made a mistake.
 
Oh I've had my share of screw ups....but I don't go blaming everyone else including the factory for a glass, that was probably in the car for close to 50 years suddenly braking, and the only thing that changed was the work that YOU did. MAn up, call for your beer assistant, learn how to spell, and admit that YOU screwed this up.
 
:beep: What a jerk you are. Don't you have better things to do in life. Why don't you go drive your Green car some where. Just take a look at all the work I did. Did not have a shop do it for me. If I made a mistake oh well. All a guy can do is go with it and figure out a solution. What have you done. I even painted my car. Why don't you try to help people instead of trying to put them down. Your not funny.
 
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Basketcase said:
Oh I've had my share of screw ups....but I don't go blaming everyone else including the factory for a glass, that was probably in the car for close to 50 years suddenly braking, and the only thing that changed was the work that YOU did. MAn up, call for your beer assistant, learn how to spell, and admit that YOU screwed this up.
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That’s called personal accountability. It’s a total lost art in humans today. Russ, honestly you screwed up. Any guy who is worth his salt will tell you to fit the glass before paint. THIS IS WHY YOU DO THAT. I have hung many many quarters. When you replace sheet metal you have to fit every little piece. Bumpers, doors, tail lights, etc you name it. I’m sorry you re having these troubles but in all honesty you really need to just get out the grinder and make it right. If you painted it yourself then you should be able to fix it right and repaint it no problem. I have yet to find a reproduction sheet metal piece that was perfect. That’s why you test fit everything.
 
Well the problem is getting solved with out cutting up what I have done. Their is a glass being made now that will fit. Their are other way's around this problem. Too much to take out to fix the metal now. I did test fit the glass and tried my best to get it rite. Just did not allow for the filler I suppose. But every thing else fit's. On the car. Thanks for the advice. If it was just a single stage paint job might have considered it. Head liner in and sail panels installed. Pop out window's in and rain gutter trim in stalled. It was a bad mistake for sure. And it is costly to get a new glass made but better than taking step's to enlarge the area in question. :lol:
 
The smallest gap I have on both sides is 1/8" and that is only for about 3". It gradually gets better and then the rest is at least a 1/4" gap the rest of the way around. 1/8" is fine with me without the clips, but with the clips is too tight for my tastes. So I will attempt to file just that one spot where the clip is. I did test fit the glass before painting, but used the original scratched back glass. The new glass does not fit the same for sure. So in retrospect, I should have bought the new glass far in advance and tested it.

The vent window I have is tempered and will try that out first. We will see......
 
Is it fair to say that if I were to file the vent glass and it didn't shatter, that it wouldn't shatter later on?
 
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