1969 Roadrunner Full Restoration

Rapid Transit said:
Did you mean using lead in the repair?
No good reason to go back with lead. And getting it out with a MAPP torch is no problem.
Weld the new metal in.
In any event, I suggest cleaning it out as much as possible then use Fusor 2098 Crash Durable adhesive instead to fill the hole.
3M makes "impact resistant adhesive" too, but I prefer Fusor.
It's good for cowl replacements, etc. And there isn't the associated later rusting as with plug welding upside down.
Clamps are in investment.
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No sir,

torridcuda has my concern illustrated properly. I think I have a direction now! I can stitch weld the seam in and carefully grind away the welds. My plan is to reinforce the rear end as much as possible before I remove the rear quarters. My trunk gutters are absolutely shot, deck filler panel is nonexistent and the deck filler support(s) need replaced as well.

One thing: I found the original stamping on the driver's side (left) upper trunk gutter. I want to save as much of that trunk gutter as possible and fortunately, that section of metal is relatively intact. Does it make sense to splice in the old section in to the new metal with the intent of keeping the original numbers on the car?

Please advise,

Semper Fi,
Sabre_3
 
torredcuda said:
You are concerned about doing the quarter/roof seam? There is lead-free solder you can use but I have never used it. My method was to plug weld the seam then weld a strip of metal over it to build up and reinforce the area so there is less to fill. I then start with ALL-Metal or you can use a fiberglass reinforced filler like Mar-Glass then last coats are with regular body filler.

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Many thanks!

That's what we'll do!

Semper Fi,
Sabre_3
 
OK....Need some guidance regarding K-Frames

This roadrunner was originally a 383 HP car. I am going back in with a 440. I assume that since the 383 is a low deck engine with different engine block mount geometry than a 440. My question(s)
1. Easy Solution - Is there an aftermarket solution such as a conversion kits that allows the end user to directly "bolt on" without k-frame modification?
2. More Difficult Solution - if number (1) does not exist; what is most widely accepted aftermarket solution?
3. More First Cost - If neither exist, would anyone recommend that I find a 440 K-frame that would bolt up to a 69 Roadrunner? Will I have any issues with bolting the original suspension and torsion bars back on?
4. Hi First Cost - QA1: if all the above are not practical, anyone have any experience with the QA1 solution?

Please Advise,
Semper Fi,
 
Sabre_3 said:
One thing: I found the original stamping on the driver's side (left) upper trunk gutter. I want to save as much of that trunk gutter as possible and fortunately, that section of metal is relatively intact. Does it make sense to splice in the old section in to the new metal with the intent of keeping the original numbers on the car?
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Yes, keep as much of the original trunk gutter with the number stamp as you can, splice in just what you need to.
 
torredcuda said:
440 will bolt right onto the 383 k-member as they are basically the same with very minor differences from `66-72.
https://www.engine-swaps.com/pages/tech-info
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Outstanding!!!

Thank you so very much!!!! I am in the process of carefully removing the 383 K-member for reinforcement and full restoration. I will post pictures throughout the restoration process.

Thank you again for the guidance!!!

Semper Fi,

Sabre_3
 
Good Morning Team,

I have some updates regarding some acquisitions I made yesterday (10/02/2025). I live outside of St Louis Mo, and have the privilege of access to Clay and Sons Mopar Salvage [(314) 578-7866 ask for Clayton] just outside Catawissa Mo. Clayton and his salvage team was able to locate the following for me:

1. Used/Salvaged 1969 Roadrunner Rear Bumper - $60: Will send pics ASAP.
2. Used/Salvaged 1969 Roadrunner Window Cranks ( x 3) with fasteners - $10 each: Will send pics ASAP
3. Used/Salvaged 1969 Roadrunner Hood Emblem - $10 each: Will send pics ASAP
4. Used/Salvaged 1969 Roadrunner Driver's Side Remote Control Handle with Fastener - No Charge: Will send pics ASAP
5. Used/Salvaged 1969 Roadrunner Driver's Side Manual Lock Knob - No Charge: Will send pics ASAP

I have purchased my 1974 A-833 4-Speed for $200 (needs rebuilt) and Bell housing for $150 through Clay Kasouth. Good Guy! Reasonable Prices! I believe they ship too. They get parts and cars in all the time if they don't have what you are looking for on the yard.

Semper Fi,
Sabre_3

​

 
Those are great prices, I wish we stil had salvage yards with old cars in my area but sadly they are almost all gone.
 
I've got updates....

I've been on a little hiatus from formal work thanks to the Federal Government. I've been taking full advantage of my free time working on the Rust-runner!

So, I have been chipping away (literally) at removing the titanic-'d floor pans and opening up the frame rails.

1000009734.jpg
(Before)

1000009737.jpg
(After-Only half finished)

1000009739.jpg
(Cross Member-Bad News)

This present a little bit of a dilemma:
Should I repair or replace?

If repair is not feasible and replacement is the answer: should I build a frame jig if many of the structural support members are just as compromised?

Recommendations?

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
Repair vs replace is a judgement call, if it` not too big of an area and the majority of it is solid then I might repair if any large protion needs to be replaced and/or the rest is a bit thin due to rust I would just replace it as it is a structural part of the unibody. As for a frame jig again it depends on how badly the rockers.rails etc. are and how much you are going to replace at once? You can do it in stages - replace the crossmember and floor now, then attack the next area but if you are going to cut it all apart now and have it blasted I would build or buy some type of jig to keep everything where it needs to be. I rebuilt a cab ot a truck I had and just set it up on 4 x 4s and braced it - worked out fine.

P1000025.JPG

P1000026.JPG

76 Dodge floor.jpg
 
torredcuda said:
Repair vs replace is a judgement call, if it` not too big of an area and the majority of it is solid then I might repair if any large protion needs to be replaced and/or the rest is a bit thin due to rust I would just replace it as it is a structural part of the unibody. As for a frame jig again it depends on how badly the rockers.rails etc. are and how much you are going to replace at once? You can do it in stages - replace the crossmember and floor now, then attack the next area but if you are going to cut it all apart now and have it blasted I would build or buy some type of jig to keep everything where it needs to be. I rebuilt a cab ot a truck I had and just set it up on 4 x 4s and braced it - worked out fine.

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Thank you for the guidance!!

The goal is to focus on allocating as many resources as possible to the roadrunner and avoid diverting cash/resources on infrastructure (e.g. 4-post lift, nice-to-have tools, frame jig) as much as possible.

I will follow your guidance and repair replace small areas/components at a time.

Ultimately, we'll know more here very shortly when I open up the remaining structural members supporting the floor pans.

I found enough sand in the Driver's side cross member to start my own blasting business !

Thank you again! I'll post more soon!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
torredcuda said:
Those are great prices, I wish we stil had salvage yards with old cars in my area but sadly they are almost all gone.
Click to expand...
Feel free to reach out to Clayton if you need parts (314)-578-7866. I believe he ships all over. Moreover, if he doesn't have what you're looking for in the yard, he'll keep an eye out for you. He gets parts in all the time.

Semper Fi,
Sabre_3
 
Sabre_3 said:
Thank you for the guidance!!

The goal is to focus on allocating as many resources as possible to the roadrunner and avoid diverting cash/resources on infrastructure (e.g. 4-post lift, nice-to-have tools, frame jig) as much as possible.
Click to expand...
I hear you on this! The only reason I had mine on a rotisserie is because I got it for FREE off Craigs List years ago, I had to modify to fit so I have a few bucks in steel and welding supplies but just sold it for $500 as I`m done with it. :p The only thing I regret is not spending the money to have the shell sandblasted as it would have saved me a lot of time and hard work stripping it by hand. I have never owned a lift or body jig but I have an engine hoist, a nice Snap On welder (bought used for a really good deal) and a pretty good tool set from when I used to do auto body for a living. You don`t need a big fancy shop and $20-30k in tools and equipment to restore a car.
 
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