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Welcome! How you strip the underside depends on how rusty it is, nice wasn`t too bad except the trunk floor which I replaced so I did it all by hand and then used a rust encapsulator. Hindsight being 20/20 I wish I had the whole shell sandblasted but it wasn`t feasible at the time...

The unibody is still pretty strong without the floor pan in place as long as the transmission crossmember is in good shape. I transported mine on a rotisserie when I moved without any bracing but my floor pan was in place and pretty solid. I would just add a couple braces in the door jamb area...

This is the can opener type I use but you have to be careful as the lower b grabber part is not very long and can bend the trim if you are not carefull. I should break out the metal scraps and welder and make a better tool that grabs a longer section, wouldn`t be difficult to make...

There are various trim removal tools but the drip rail one is PITA to remove without bending or twisting - patience is the key so just go slowly a little at a time. I have actually used an old can opener wrapped with some tape that works good but just saw this tool when I googled it - might work...

I was a look back in the day but I, like most, prefer higher in the rear.

Nice looking v-code runner but I agree the front needs to be dropped a few inches.

PB Blaster or whatever your favorite penetrating fluid is, the trick is to keep spraying it for 3-4 days or better to submerse it if you can.

Yes! Totally forgot to let you know and thank you again for that - it worked great, holes are drilled.

Hopefully last skim coat of mud, once I sand it smooth I can get the upper cowl in epoxy. Next is to finish work on front wheel wells and engine bay.

Cowl work continues, it was caved in slightly so needed to be pulled up a bit on both sides and along the vents. On the sides I used my stud gun but made a tool to fit in between the vent slots to pull up the middle and it worked nicely.

Welcome! It may be better to post an introduction here and post your hood for sale separately in the For Sale section.

Extremely tough to read anything on that tag, try flipping it over and reading it from the back. There are a few decoding tools on different websites, have you looked for a broadcast sheet yet? https://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-fender-tag-decoder.php

Still actually made in the US, that`s surprising!

Maybe a case of the sound deadoning and the seat covers not leaving enough room, once the tabs are bent over the slots the rear seat back should stay in place. It looks like one side of the bottom seat has vinyl along the back edge and the other side has fabric?

Leave it to Wyle to be driving in a lesser Dodge B-body than the much cooler road runner. :p

I love the High Impact colors but love the other colors as well -Burnt Orange, dark greens etc. Matching any old color is a challenge due to type of paint has changed from lacquer and enamels to urethanes so have the toners that are used to mix them. I tried a few lesser known brands of paint...

Original is always better IMO as most new ones are probably made overseas somewhere with cheaper parts and materials plus no mods needed depending on which new carb you bought - fuel line, adapters etc., I would get it rebuilt.

:thumbsup: Now I want a pet road runner!

Code Description E63 383-4 Barrel D21 Heavy Duty 4-Speed Manual Transmission RM21 R = Plymouth Road Runner M = Medium 21 = 2 Door Coupe H9E H = 383 330HP OR 335HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL 9 = 1969 E = Los Angeles, CA, USA 168380 Sequence Number '168380' B7 Paint Code: Medium Blue Metallic...

Body Type: R = Road Runner Price Class: M = Medium Body Type: 21 = 2 Door Coupe Engine: H = 383 330HP OR 335HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL Year: 9 = 1969 Sequence Number: 168380 = 68380th Vehical Built