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Why are you saving the tunnel? I would just buy the full floor pan and do it right rather than have to splice in and weld separate drivers and passenger pans.

Ya, I`m usually really carefull and safe about being under a car when it is raised up and NEVER under just a hydraulic jack, always jack stands or solid blocking. That was a lapse of thinking and rushing a bit that could have been bad. Luckily I caught it as soon as it tilted back and no harm...

I may do something similar to what I did on my Barracuda's center caps but FC7 instead of EV2 but may come up with another idea???

It's a long ways off from needing tires but I wanted an idea of what my chrome slots were going to look like on there.

I had not bolted in the rear end due to the undercarriage needing a small spot blown in with epoxy but I got that done when I was spraying the rockers so in it went. FYI - when you bolt in an 8 3/4 rear onto a bare shell it makes the back a bit heavier, I found that out real quick when I lowered...

Not sure what the correct factory name would be but most call it the rear upper metal interior panel...

I hear you on this! The only reason I had mine on a rotisserie is because I got it for FREE off Craigs List years ago, I had to modify to fit so I have a few bucks in steel and welding supplies but just sold it for $500 as I`m done with it. :p The only thing I regret is not spending the...

Welcome! Nice looking car, looks like the one Level One Classics had?

Repair vs replace is a judgement call, if it` not too big of an area and the majority of it is solid then I might repair if any large protion needs to be replaced and/or the rest is a bit thin due to rust I would just replace it as it is a structural part of the unibody. As for a frame jig again...

Shot epoxy on the floor, rockers, jambs and cowl sides this morning.

And there are often exceptions with Mopars. I bought a complete dash with Rallye gages that had a '73 Satellite vin tag but had the extra indicator lights so maybe it was a late '73 change? The factory would also use up any inventory so an early '74 model could have got a '73 style bezel.

Those are great prices, I wish we stil had salvage yards with old cars in my area but sadly they are almost all gone.

440 will bolt right onto the 383 k-member as they are basically the same with very minor differences from `66-72. https://www.engine-swaps.com/pages/tech-info

Yes, keep as much of the original trunk gutter with the number stamp as you can, splice in just what you need to.

You are concerned about doing the quarter/roof seam? There is lead-free solder you can use but I have never used it. My method was to plug weld the seam then weld a strip of metal over it to build up and reinforce the area so there is less to fill. I then start with ALL-Metal or you can use a...

`74 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/314258135195

If you are on FB try this guy as he has a bunch of `71-74 dash parts. Be aware the `74 dash bezel is unique and different from the `71-73 as it has two indicator lights on the rigth side of the light and wiper switches the others don`t...

If it is the one in the pic that one has also been cut open for some aftermarket stereo. It should look like this one -...

Welcome here, I know you from Facebook as well. I`m Jeffrey Hunt and run the Plymouth road runner, GTX, Satellite, Belvedere 1965-1980 page. https://www.facebook.com/groups/876450751078629

Welcome! `73-74s are nice cars as I`ve owned a few of them, as for parts there are not as many reproduction available in regards to sheet metal - no quarter panels, fenders, etc. but many other parts are not too hard to find. If you are on Facebook there are a few groups for them and also FBBO...