Search results for query: *

All those so-called "facts" have already been proven false on this thread or have the phrases "when overloaded" or "corroded/dirty connections" which can cause issues and failures in ANY electrical system - NONE of what you posted proves the system as designed is flawed or has inherent design...

"educated me of the design shortcomings of portions of the electrical system that resulted in bypassing the amp meter" You keep alluding to "shortcomings and such of the system but have never actually provided ANY facts to back it up while 72rrGTX does -I`ll go with the facts every time. Don`t...

One of the issues with reproducing Chrysler parts is that the molds and dies were scrapped when the company went into bankruptcy so new tooling has to be made which affects the accuracy and quality of those parts.

You haven`t explained exactly what "modern and advanced technology" you are using? If you have wiring and connections they can still get corroded, overload and melt or burn up. I know some eliminate the bulkhead connectors and run the wires all the way thru which at least eliminates that issue.

JWW - What exactly is "modern electrical technology"? Your car still has wiring, connectors and fuses. My Barracuda has new forward harnesses but the dash interior and trunk harnesses are factory original and the ammeter is still in place and hooked up thru the factory wiring. Ive owned the car...

Yes, we can all have opinions but facts are facts - know the difference between the two. I also read the OPs post and he did not figure out what actually caused the blown fusible link and smoke but I would guess it was an overloaded and/or dirty connection. He never mentioned anything about the...

Pretty much a paid advertisement and NOT an accurate article - "Let Redline Gauge Works Convert Your Mopar Ammeter to a Voltmeter".

I got lucky and scored a pretty solid Satellite hood only 20 minutes away! It has some rust along the front lip and some of the cutouts are different than the air grabber one I'll cut out and patch just the areas I need. Passenger corner is welded on, a couple more to cut, weld and grind.

Welcome! Great looking car but why would someone paint a car that was Q5 from the factory green? Obviously someone liked the green better but man I LOVE the Seafoam Turquoise. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1969-Plymouth.html#modal-close

One step forward four steps backwards. I got the passenger door and fender aligned pretty well. I got the air grabber hood out of the shed to test fit it to the fenders and when I was rinsing the dust off it I noticed a patch of filler hiding under the paint. The hood is not original to the car...

AAR hood is ready for test fitting and then primer but I'll need some help to do that so back on the road runner. I got the drivers door and fender gaps good so I can fine tune the fender edge and start the filler work. Passenger door is on and quarter gap is good but I need to get the...

Spraying epoxy primer is not difficult but you will need some basic equipment - compressor putting out enough cfm for your gun, HVLP require more than the old siphon feed guns, HVLP have less overspray so use less material but siphon feeds work just fine and I still use my old ones sometimes...

VRD - "I have seen cars have this happen to them because they don't want to do basic maintenance and inspections" As mentioned most electrical issues are caused by overloading, old brittle wiring or dirty, corroded connections NOT due to any bad engineering or design of the system and you even...

Not much progress lately as I've been busy with wife, kids, house etc. but even when I have had some free time lack of motivation has kicked in. I think it is a combination of a long, cold, snowy winter and being in the seemingly never ending bodywork stage that has me a bit beat up both...

Nice, I love the `71-72s, that is a good combo with the FC7 and 340.

Just jack it up a smidge under the rear frame rails as close as you can get to where the rear axle would be so there is weight on there. I had mine on the rotisserie but unbolted the rear and set it on jack stands when I did the trunk floor and quarters.

Welcome! :xscuseless:

Before I do the filler work on the fenders I need to hang the doors back on so I can check the lines and fine tune so I sprayed some In-Violet on the hinges and jambs.

If you are going to do any reinforcing do it BEFORE you mount it on the rotisserie, I`d put it on jack stands as close o where the wheels would be as possible to simulate where the weight will be when it`s back on the ground.

Nice work. I mounted my road runner on the rotisserie without any bracing but except for trunk floor it had a very solid unibody structure and it is a post car so I felt it wasn`t needed. I did place jack stands under the car when I did the trunk floor, quarters and passenger floor to support...