torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Just little slow around here lately, probably due to holidays and such. Your work looks good, keep it up. I`m still plugging away on mine.
Last edited:
1969 Roadrunner Full Restoration
- Thread starter Sabre_3
- Start date
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
droptop bird
New Member
Looks like you're doing fine I used a rotisserie on mine and it worked well I have tons of leftover parts if you're interested PM me
Here is start and finish. Stick with it it's rewarding
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Than you so very much!!!
Your car is absolutely beautiful!!! Thank you for sharing!!!!
Wouldn't happen to know where a 440 air grabber assy. May be lying around would ya?
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Ok...
So very sorry for not posting in a while!
Here's my latest and greatest. My 69 roadrunner didn't come with a trunk brace.
Soo...I was able to Salvage one from Clay & Sons Mopar salvage yard this past fall.
After some clean up, the Passenger's side of the trunk brace was toasted! (Betwee the blue masking tape)
So I measured, double checked measurements, grabbed a piece of 18 gauge sheetmetal and created a patch piece rather than purchase a new one.
I carefully made a cut along my blue masking tape and welded the patch piece and Passenger's side end together.
I welded in a small reinforcement piece that will eventually be covered with the trunk pan. It should reinforcement that weak point.
This is the side that will be see from under the car. I will trim the excess once the piece is fully fabricated.
Here is the second cut I made.
I welded the patch piece in with that reinforce the weld seam
I forgot to take pictures of the finished product. More to follow.
Next steps: Road to Rotisserie.
1. Reinforce Frame? Do I need to add temporary bracing before I put on the rotisserie?
2. Remove K-member
3. Remove rear suspension and 8-3/4 rear end.
4. Mount on Rotisserie!!!
Let me know what you think!
Semper Fi,
Sabre_3
So very sorry for not posting in a while!
Here's my latest and greatest. My 69 roadrunner didn't come with a trunk brace.
Soo...I was able to Salvage one from Clay & Sons Mopar salvage yard this past fall.
After some clean up, the Passenger's side of the trunk brace was toasted! (Betwee the blue masking tape)
So I measured, double checked measurements, grabbed a piece of 18 gauge sheetmetal and created a patch piece rather than purchase a new one.
I carefully made a cut along my blue masking tape and welded the patch piece and Passenger's side end together.
I welded in a small reinforcement piece that will eventually be covered with the trunk pan. It should reinforcement that weak point.
This is the side that will be see from under the car. I will trim the excess once the piece is fully fabricated.
Here is the second cut I made.
I welded the patch piece in with that reinforce the weld seam
I forgot to take pictures of the finished product. More to follow.
Next steps: Road to Rotisserie.
1. Reinforce Frame? Do I need to add temporary bracing before I put on the rotisserie?
2. Remove K-member
3. Remove rear suspension and 8-3/4 rear end.
4. Mount on Rotisserie!!!
Let me know what you think!
Semper Fi,
Sabre_3
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Nice work. I mounted my road runner on the rotisserie without any bracing but except for trunk floor it had a very solid unibody structure and it is a post car so I felt it wasn`t needed. I did place jack stands under the car when I did the trunk floor, quarters and passenger floor to support the middle.
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Many Thanks Sir!
My goal is to have her up on the rotisserie this weekend!!!
Then I can begin reinforcing the frame and replacing rotten frame rails!
Semper Fi,
Sabre_3
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Okay,
We have updates....
So, my goal is to get her on the rotisserie this weekend (03/27-30).
As a result, I have begun removing the suspension to reduce weight and stress on the chassis and rotisserie.
So, I started at the rear end:
So, I stabilized the rear differential and leaf springs.
Well...the U-bolts were being a little fussy, so I hit'm with the death wheel.
Try not to chuckle: the 8-3/4 rear differential is quite heavy, so I built a trolley out of scrap wood, mounted my Jack's and lifted the rear differential off the leaf springs, slid the trolley under, moved the Jack's in place, lowered the rear differential assembly on to the trolley and rolled the rear differential assembly out of the car.
Kinda silly, but it worked!
I then removed the leaf springs:
The rear end is now prepped for the rotisserie!
Now on to the front suspension!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
We have updates....
So, my goal is to get her on the rotisserie this weekend (03/27-30).
As a result, I have begun removing the suspension to reduce weight and stress on the chassis and rotisserie.
So, I started at the rear end:
So, I stabilized the rear differential and leaf springs.
Well...the U-bolts were being a little fussy, so I hit'm with the death wheel.
Try not to chuckle: the 8-3/4 rear differential is quite heavy, so I built a trolley out of scrap wood, mounted my Jack's and lifted the rear differential off the leaf springs, slid the trolley under, moved the Jack's in place, lowered the rear differential assembly on to the trolley and rolled the rear differential assembly out of the car.
Kinda silly, but it worked!
I then removed the leaf springs:
The rear end is now prepped for the rotisserie!
Now on to the front suspension!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
quikbird
Well-Known Member
Functional and effective! Extra points for using leftover scrap you already have
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
If you are going to do any reinforcing do it BEFORE you mount it on the rotisserie, I`d put it on jack stands as close o where the wheels would be as possible to simulate where the weight will be when it`s back on the ground.
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
More fun Times!!
Ok...so: Off with the front suspension!
Torsion bars have to be "gently removed" from their mounting location....
Thank God for the 1/2 Pneumatic impact!! The 3/4" Bolts were seized! I carefully worked the bolt turn by turn and PB Blasted until they properly rotated.
I cleaned and carefully removed the torsion bar retaining clips.
Then used my mancini racing torsion bars removal tool and beat the ever-loving snot out of the tool until the Driver's side torsion bar finally gave up and came out.
Success! The Driver's side torsion bar is out and on to the Passenger's side....
Ya...then I snapped one of the 7/16" grade 6 Bolts on the torsion bar puller...and I called it quits for the evening.
Gotta go to the hardware store and scoop up some grade 8's...
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
Ok...so: Off with the front suspension!
Torsion bars have to be "gently removed" from their mounting location....
Thank God for the 1/2 Pneumatic impact!! The 3/4" Bolts were seized! I carefully worked the bolt turn by turn and PB Blasted until they properly rotated.
I cleaned and carefully removed the torsion bar retaining clips.
Then used my mancini racing torsion bars removal tool and beat the ever-loving snot out of the tool until the Driver's side torsion bar finally gave up and came out.
Success! The Driver's side torsion bar is out and on to the Passenger's side....
Ya...then I snapped one of the 7/16" grade 6 Bolts on the torsion bar puller...and I called it quits for the evening.
Gotta go to the hardware store and scoop up some grade 8's...
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Oh crap!
I have the cars rear end on the rotisserie. See below.
That's 1/4" x 3" angle measured, centered and mounted to the rotisserie.
I was able to fit the angle under the rear bumper support. There is a recessed area that perfectly fit the 1/4" angle and secure in place with 1/2" grade 8 bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts.
I have since purchase about 20 ft of 1"x1"x1/16th" thick square tubing and will properly reinforce the car.
Thank you for the guidance!!!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Just jack it up a smidge under the rear frame rails as close as you can get to where the rear axle would be so there is weight on there. I had mine on the rotisserie but unbolted the rear and set it on jack stands when I did the trunk floor and quarters.
Russ69Runner
Well-Known Member
I found rust under the factory E coating and had to strip all new metal parts down and prime them myself after treating rust. Epoxy coated over my rust treatment. Good luck with the project. I thought the project would never end and I was right. Now putting air grabber system on the car and running into a lot of work to accomplish this. So, keep the faith and move forward. Russ.
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Ok...In goes the support bracing for the endo skeleton.
I welded the square tubing to the engine bay inner frame rails.
I then found some good frame rail metal in the trunk and welded in some square tubing in to the trunk area.
No came the fun part. I figured the Passenger compartment would want to flex around the door perimeter.
So, I welded in some square tubing perpendicular to the rear of the doors. You can see the lateral bracing l welded in this pic.
Here's what the bracing looks like at the front end of the Driver's side compartment.
Basically, I welded in a square made from 1×1×1/8 inch thick square stock.
Hopefully, it will keep the body from twisting.
Let me know what you think ?
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
I welded the square tubing to the engine bay inner frame rails.
I then found some good frame rail metal in the trunk and welded in some square tubing in to the trunk area.
No came the fun part. I figured the Passenger compartment would want to flex around the door perimeter.
So, I welded in some square tubing perpendicular to the rear of the doors. You can see the lateral bracing l welded in this pic.
Here's what the bracing looks like at the front end of the Driver's side compartment.
Basically, I welded in a square made from 1×1×1/8 inch thick square stock.
Hopefully, it will keep the body from twisting.
Let me know what you think ?
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Ok...now we remove the K-Member that's been installed for 57 years...
So, I ordered and received the front suspension restoration kit from Mancini Racing. One of my better purchases!
I started with the Driver's Side upper control arm ball-joint removal process.
With my new wiz-bang ball-joint socket and stud driver: confidence was high.
I removed the bent and barely recognizable cotter pin retaining the ball-joint castle nut.
Then the fun began. Would you believe it the castle nut that hadn't been touched in over 56 years didn't want to come off.
I finally got it off using a 1/2" Pneumatic impact Driver and a lot of liquid Wrench.
On to removing the ball-joint assembly...or so I thought. I place the ball-joint stud press between the lower control arm and seated the press against the ball-joint stud.
I grabbed the 1/2" impact Driver and worked the press in conjunction with the socket/impact Driver.
After a lot of Ougga-Duggas, the top of the ball-joint started to unscrew. I pressed from the bottom while unscrewing from the top.
After all the effort, the ball-joint refused to pop out. Very frustrating!
So I went to plan B and removed the 3/4" Upper Control Arm bolts. The Control Arm slid out od it's respective mounting bracket with a little help.
I dropped the shock and ended up twisting off the corroded brake line
I repeated the same process on the Passenger's side.
Then it was time to take out the 1-1/16 bolts holding in the K-Member.
I used my 1/2" impact gun to gently Coax the bolts out of their resting spot.
I carefully lowered the K-Member on to the pallet and slid it out from under the car.
Love the process!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
So, I ordered and received the front suspension restoration kit from Mancini Racing. One of my better purchases!
I started with the Driver's Side upper control arm ball-joint removal process.
With my new wiz-bang ball-joint socket and stud driver: confidence was high.
I removed the bent and barely recognizable cotter pin retaining the ball-joint castle nut.
Then the fun began. Would you believe it the castle nut that hadn't been touched in over 56 years didn't want to come off.
I finally got it off using a 1/2" Pneumatic impact Driver and a lot of liquid Wrench.
On to removing the ball-joint assembly...or so I thought. I place the ball-joint stud press between the lower control arm and seated the press against the ball-joint stud.
I grabbed the 1/2" impact Driver and worked the press in conjunction with the socket/impact Driver.
After a lot of Ougga-Duggas, the top of the ball-joint started to unscrew. I pressed from the bottom while unscrewing from the top.
After all the effort, the ball-joint refused to pop out. Very frustrating!
So I went to plan B and removed the 3/4" Upper Control Arm bolts. The Control Arm slid out od it's respective mounting bracket with a little help.
I dropped the shock and ended up twisting off the corroded brake line
I repeated the same process on the Passenger's side.
Then it was time to take out the 1-1/16 bolts holding in the K-Member.
I used my 1/2" impact gun to gently Coax the bolts out of their resting spot.
I carefully lowered the K-Member on to the pallet and slid it out from under the car.
Love the process!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Thank you for for the information!!!
Ok...so, did you shoot the epoxy coating yourself? If so, how difficult was it?
I'm a first time'r. Would you recommend epoxy coating yourself or hire it out (take it to a professional)?
If you epoxy coated yourself: did you have a sophisticated paint gun set-up? Pneumatic air filters, filter/driers, pressure regulator etc?
Sorry for the numerous questions, but I'd really like to epoxy coated and primer the car myself. But, I'm concerned about screwing over the professional painter that would shoot the T5 Bronze Fire.
Sabre_3
Well-Known Member
Ok...I've got updates!
Endoskeleton installed, K-Member and front suspension is off and the rear suspension has been removed. Rotisserie time!!!
I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and here's the result:
Lesson Learned: Balancing the car - try to use your jack stands (or lifting device) to elevate the car as high as you comfortably can. The goal is to get the car as close to the rotisserie rotational pivot point as you can.
Why? The goal is to get the car's center of gravity as close to the rotisserie pivot centerline as possible. My rotisserie set up requires me to utilize a threaded rod balance assembly.
I found it extremely difficult to use the balance assembly to lift the adjustable lifting arms. The closest you can get the car to that rotating assembly center line before using the threaded rod to elevate the car you'll thank yourself!
Nonetheless, here we are:
Gonna start at the bottom from rear to front and repair the unibody.
Let me know what you think!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
Endoskeleton installed, K-Member and front suspension is off and the rear suspension has been removed. Rotisserie time!!!
I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and here's the result:
Lesson Learned: Balancing the car - try to use your jack stands (or lifting device) to elevate the car as high as you comfortably can. The goal is to get the car as close to the rotisserie rotational pivot point as you can.
Why? The goal is to get the car's center of gravity as close to the rotisserie pivot centerline as possible. My rotisserie set up requires me to utilize a threaded rod balance assembly.
I found it extremely difficult to use the balance assembly to lift the adjustable lifting arms. The closest you can get the car to that rotating assembly center line before using the threaded rod to elevate the car you'll thank yourself!
Nonetheless, here we are:
Gonna start at the bottom from rear to front and repair the unibody.
Let me know what you think!
Semper Fi
Sabre_3
torredcuda
Well-Known Member
Spraying epoxy primer is not difficult but you will need some basic equipment - compressor putting out enough cfm for your gun, HVLP require more than the old siphon feed guns, HVLP have less overspray so use less material but siphon feeds work just fine and I still use my old ones sometimes; water separator and I also use an inline disposable filter right before the gun; respirator. As far as painting I would check with whoever is going to paint your car if they are OK with you doing the prep and primer as some will not want to paint over anyone elses prep work due to warrantying their work. Worst case is you epoxy it to prevent rust and they would strip it off when you bring it to them for painting.