727 Acting weird

[inri]

I'm trying to seat the torque converter while I'm under the car on my side; which is pretty difficult. I think I've got it to seat twice onto the transmission shaft. I'm not 100% sure if there is one more to go? I've been trying to wiggle the converter clockwise and counter-clockwise to see if it will drop again but no luck.

I took a measurement from the seated torque converter to the edge of the bellhousing and there is 5/8" distance between the two. Is this measurement right or do I need to have the converter in further?

 

[inri]

Update to my earlier post 1 hour ago...

I took the transmission out from under the car and attempted to further seat the torque converter. I still am not able to seat the converter more than 5/8" from the edge of the bellhousing.

I took a mirror and placed it to the side of the converter while attempting to seat it and it appears that it is about 1/2" or so from being fully seated. I watched a couple youtube videos on how to seat a converter but I'm not having the same luck...

 

[inri]

Update...

Thanks for nothing guys :welcoming:

I found a site that details the best way to install the torque converter and how far back it should be. I'll attempt this tomorrow!

Add a quart of new transmission fluid to the torque converter. Using the aid of a helper, stand
the transmission on the tail shaft and carefully install the torque converter onto the transmission.
Spin the torque converter and listen for 3 distinct clicks as it drops into the transmission. The
following are measurements you can make to insure the torque converter is all the way in the
transmission:
Chrysler 727 = 1.250” from bellhousing to Ring Gear

 

[Basketcase]

I ran into this while changing 727s on a Power Wagon once. My converter wouldn't seat all the way on the new trans. Found out there are different splines (like the 18 and 23 on the 4 speeds)

 

[inri]

I ran into this while changing 727s on a Power Wagon once. My converter wouldn't seat all the way on the new trans. Found out there are different splines (like the 18 and 23 on the 4 speeds)

Ohhhh, thats good to know, especially if I change converters. This converter was on the transmission before so I know it fits, I'm just not able to get it seated. I'm going to have my dad over next week who I'll ask to stand up the transmission on the tail shaft while I spin the converter onto the spline. I'm positive this should do it. Just disappointed I have to wait...

 

[inri]

Decided to attempt to stand up the transmission and spin the converter on it to seat it by myself.

Did a bit of a juggling act at first trying to stand up and then place the transmission between my legs to balance it, all while I picked up the torque converter with one hand.

I did manage to fully sit the converter which now sits roughly 1.20" from bellhousing to ring gear! Super excited to get this in this week

 

[inri]

Decided to attempt to stand up the transmission and spin the converter on it to seat it by myself.

Did a bit of a juggling act at first trying to stand up and then place the transmission between my legs to balance it, all while I picked up the torque converter with one hand.

I did manage to fully sit the converter which now sits roughly 1.20" from bellhousing to ring gear! Super excited to get this in this week

I'm attempting to install the 727 today but I'm having a bit of an angle fitment issue. The engine has slighly tilted back (down) and it's very difficult to get the transmission bellhousing holes to align with the engine block holes. I'm using a low profile jack to lift the transmission up to the engine. I'd like to know is there a tool that can be rented to help with this installation? Can I jack up the engine? If so from where? There's a block "ear" on each side of the engine near where the bellhousing will mate up I'm not sure if that might work, but I don't want to break one of those off!!

It's really cold lying on the garage floor for many hours... ..starting to feel shaky and weak. :black_eyed:

 

[Basketcase]

get yourself some long bolts that will thread into the engine, and use them to slide your trans in. Works for me when I'm doing a 4 speed.

 

[inri]

Basketcase,

Can you provide an illustration for me? I'm a simpleton so I have a hard time unferstanden fings

 

[Basketcase]

that;s beyound my talent.:jester::jester: simply put, get two bolts that will thread into the back of the engine where two lower trans bolts would go. Put the bolts thru the mounting holes of the trans, and you can support the trans on the bolts and slide it into place

 

[69383RR]

Be advised , remember what happened to me with my unmentionable problem down below , from laying on the cold cement floor all day , which is all cleared up by the way .

 

[inri]

Genius! Absolutely Genius!

Are you sure that I won't break off a bolt hole or strip one doing it this way? There's going to be around 700 lbs of weight (440 weight) being lifted by a few bolts?

 

[inri]

LOL Yeah I remember.

I had to get up off the floor after a few hours as I was getting real achy and couldn't get the transmission to bolt up. I think the flu is upon me...

If I get better soon I'll try for another go around early next week.

 

[Big John]

Ok... Before you hurt yourself.. And you will the way you are going.

Stop...

If you are lifting the engine, you are doing this completely wrong. The engine needs to stay exactly where it is (hopefully supported by something other than the tie rod) and the trans HAS to come to it.

Go to the nearest tool rental and rent a transmission jack. Yes, a lot people don't use one, but they are much easier. You've obviously gotten in over your head here and you need every edge.

The trans jack will not only hold the trans up, it will tilt the trans to the proper angle to bolt up.

Dave's suggestion is really good for a standard trans, but not as great here. You can do a little "mod" of the idea if it helps. Go buy some cheap bolts about 3 to 4" long and cut the heads off. Grind a taper on the shanks where the head was. Screw the bolts into the engine at approx 9 and 3 o'clock. Align the trans as best you can, tilting the jack as needed and slide it on to the cut off bolts. Jockey it close as possible to the engine and slide your other bolts in and tighten. Be sure the dowel pins align as you draw it up. Remove the cut-off bolts and finish.

One other tip. Clip a vice grip to the bellhousing up against the convertor so it doesn't slide out of the pump. You've already had an issue figuring that out.

If you can't rent a jack, buy one at Harbor Freight. Don't get the cheap one with the scissor jack. Sell it on Craigs List for 1/2 price if you don't want to keep it when you're done. You'll be $$ ahead even with that loss.

There.... I've done my part and stopped you from killing yourself.

 

[inri]

Ahhhh Big John you do care

Thank you for the information. Basketcase made a good case lol about the bolts but I believe the transmission jack is the safer route to take.

Here's a transmission jack that I believe will work: http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html It has a tilt feature too.

My wife and daughter thank you for stopping me from killing myself!

 

[Big John]

That jack will work. It's a Chinese copy of a real jack.

 

[inri]

Yes I am alive... he he

Got the transmission in tonight! Hip hip horray. Installed a new transmission mount, powdercoated transmission crossmember. I am moving along!

I leave for Chicago on Sunday for two weeks so I'll continue installing the other components when I return (driveshaft, transmission lines, extra deep pan, starter, etc.)

A big thanks to everyone who has chimed in and helped me so far. Never removed and replaced anything other than my undies!

 

[inri]

**Update**

Transmission is in and all is hooked up...BUT...

The car won't start in Park, it won't even engage the starter? However, when I move the shifter to N, the starter engages and the car starts. Obviously the linkage is out of whack, but how can I tell which direction to move it in?

Besides that I have a few transmission line leaks coming that should be quick fixes.

 

[Big John]

Use a test light on the neutral safety switch while you adjust the linkage.

 

[inri]

John,

Thanks for the reply. Can you break down what I need to do to caveman terminology? What is the neutral safety switch and where is it located? What do you mean "use a test light"?

Thank you sir