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Driveline upgrade

quikbird

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update time, Dana is installed, coilovers in, 4 link is installed, brake lines are made,

101_2890.JPG

next question is does a 4 link need a rear swaybar??
 

RKNRLR

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I am having larger-than-expected problems fitting the GV unit in the trans tunnel. Looks like the "slight massaging" needed to get it to snug in is an understatement. Also, when installing the unit onto an 18-spline 4-speed, you will need and auto transmission mount, as well as the recommended auto cross member, for correct installation.
Now another couple of days wait for some parts. :soapbox:
 

Russ69Runner

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That is a real let down I know. What they say and what is really need to make thing's fit. I have read that they had to hammer on the tunnel to make it fit. Have been looking at a different type unit that they use like on jeep's and off road truck's. It fit's into the drive line behind the transmission. Gear reducer. Works with an electrical clutch also. It is more compact. That is what I have been researching.
 

RKNRLR

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Ill let you know whether there is any improvement in fitment once the trans mount turns up. Got a feeling the whole rig was sitting high, might not be as bad as it forst looked with the incorrect mount.
 

Russ69Runner

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You know RKNRLR the challenge I know you are up to. But the waiting on parts is the killer. Even here it is not like these parts are just every where. Keep at it and you will be behind the wheel before long. :thumbsup2:
 

RKNRLR

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Hood clearance was too tight on the back, took it back to the shop and took almost another inch off the back. Thought the hood would be alot flimsier once the hole was cut, but its pretty sturdy, for a "race-weight" pin-on hood.
 

RKNRLR

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Have just ordered the A-body trans mount, which will fot the auto crossmember I have purchased for the swap (Brewers part # TC040), but is 5/16 shorter than the current mount I have (Mopar part number 2533 145). It will hopefully allow me to adjust the geometry of the trans+OD unit, which is currently sitting up WAAAAY too high in the tunnel. Looks like ill need almost 3/4 inch just to make it fir at the moment, let alone clearance it form the tunnel.
Hoping the shorter mount will allow me to see-saw it down a bit, and get the clearance required.
 

Russ69Runner

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You go RKNRLR. Was not for set back's we would be driving these car's. I like when they say a bolt on product and no added part's needed. YA RITE. You will get it we know. Soon will be pic's of you cruising down the road. :thumbsup2:
 

quikbird

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All rite. Need some advice. Trying to get the rear U joint holder off the pinion and Nothing I have tried so far will break that nut loose. Any ideas???
 

69hemibeep

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Put a huge pipe wrench on the yoke pin it against something and a breaker bar with a pipe. You will want a 6 point socket possibly an impact socket. Oh get someone strong like your wife :lol:
 

ACME A12

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Just curious... Why are you wanting to yank the yoke off of a brand new (as far as I know...maybe I missed something) differential...?
 

quikbird

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Wrong size. Need a 1350 one. Diff came out of a truck I think and has a smaller u joint. New driveshaft is aluminum with 1350 u joints. Promised me I couldn’t break it. We’ll see
 

Russ69Runner

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Yes a big socket and leverage. But if you have a heat gun not a hair dryer. Heat that nut up then try to get it loose. A little heat can go a long way's.
 

quikbird

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Thank you folks. bob’s advice was spot on. Bought a 3 foot pipe wrench and was just what I needed. Drive shaft is now installed
 
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