little problem with my roadrunner

[george68hemirr]

Wow George,

You really hit the jackpot. It looks like different things going on at the same time. That is impressive spring pressure you are running, I am surprised a hydraulic lifter could take that. I don't have a high opinion of Comp though my personal experience is limited but I would be inclined to talk to Crane. I think they put more thought into their Mopar and Ford stuff than Comp and their quality is really good. I have Crane hydraulic rollers in my hemi and so far they have been good but I suspect I don't spin the rpm you do.

I don't think I have ever seen the inside of a distributor look like that before, that is impressive.

Good luck and as others have said, it is a good thing you caught it when you did.

these lifters are solid flat tappets.....was told by tim banning from for hemis only that i should run 550 open seat spring pressure so these ceramics dont dance which would shatter.....rpms......i run her up to 65-7500 ..... hydraulics would float which i dont want

 

[george68hemirr]

if that is your idea of a little problem, then i would hate to see a big problem.

i really want to puke.....if i dont find the lifters may have to go with solid uncoated lifters and give the smith brothers a call to make new push rods and also change out my 550 lb seat pressure valve springs to 325lbs or shit can the cam.....go roller/cam/springs.....750 lb seat pressure/new roller lifters

I'm shocked that with that set-up you don't already have a nasty-a$$ roller... With that engine combo this is a no-brainer... :cents:

The only thing I don't like about rollers is the sacrificial bronze dizzy gear. It really sucks when they give up the ship and put you on the side of the road, but it's better than two unforgiving metal surfaces competing for the same space.

have to seen the price of that bronze gear......
MOPAR - "B/RB" / Hemi Roller Tappet Cams - Bronze Gear
Features hardened tip shaft with full radius blend from hex to round and pinned gears.

FOR USE WITH MILODON DUAL LINE SPACER PLATE

Shaft length: 7.00"
$214.95
they are out of there minds

 

[george68hemirr]

so I've been tossing around different ideas thru my head and when over to pick my engine builder brain....then came home and whet on the new guy website that builds the new version Schubeck composite solid lifters to see if they still make them.....sent him a email.....bingo....they still make them.....these are a 1 off and they are 4 weeks back ordered

Yes no problem $740.00 set
4 weeks out right now


Thank You!
Don Gould



FBO Systems
541-942-5920

so i called him and he said Joe Schubecks partner farmed out the lifters to a company in india......joe wanted no part of this and shut the place down.....guess what.....these lifters are in my hemi.....Don says......i was going to give him a count of how many i needed and he said they will all fail.....i paid 651 back in 05 for these then.....$740 now
engine builder says he has seen too many roller failures and i should take a chance and go with these.......i just want to get it back on the road for carlise and fall time ,send to my builder and freshin up the hemi......maybe a blown hemi would be better

this way i dont have to change the cam($413)/distrib gear($214)/pushrods($300)/roller lifters($520)/springs($200-400)....for now

 

[Steve]

Sorry to hear this George,but at least you caught it early before more damage.I'll guess at Made in China parts.What a PITA when all the snow has gone, the good weather is here and you can't use the car.

 

[moparchris]

George, you really need to research your options. Here are a few facts from a few engines I have built recently.
-A good solid roller will run you $850.
-Roller lifters aren't what they were 10 years ago, there are several street rollers out there that are plenty reliable. EX: Isky Redzone
-You already have enough spring pressure for a good medium sized roller.
-Hydraulic rollers are good to 7K. I just built a 800 hp Chevy with them and it made power to 7200.
-Crane makes a Billet dizzy gear coated with Mikronite that will not wear or you can buy a camshaft with a cast gear which is what I just used on that Chevy.
-Flat tappets are archaic and really have no place in a high end motor like yours. (ok thats my opinion)

I really hate to see you throw good money on a bad design.

 

[zupanj]

Chris,

I have a hydraulic roller cam in my hemi with a bronze distributor gear and a bronze tipped fuel pump rod. How often should I look at those for wear and is the wear obvious? I have seen some pictures of distributor gears in the past that were pretty subtle in terms of wear. I have been worried about this a little but I have put so few miles on the engine that I haven't really looked at anything yet. This engine does not turn high rpm, it is no longer making power at 5400 rpm.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but your post made me wonder.

 

[george68hemirr]

George, you really need to research your options. Here are a few facts from a few engines I have built recently.
-A good solid roller will run you $850.
-Roller lifters aren't what they were 10 years ago, there are several street rollers out there that are plenty reliable. EX: Isky Redzone
-You already have enough spring pressure for a good medium sized roller.
-Hydraulic rollers are good to 7K. I just built a 800 hp Chevy with them and it made power to 7200.
-Crane makes a Billet dizzy gear coated with Mikronite that will not wear or you can buy a camshaft with a cast gear which is what I just used on that Chevy.
-Flat tappets are archaic and really have no place in a high end motor like yours. (ok thats my opinion)

I really hate to see you throw good money on a bad design.

chris.....i see what you are saying......at the end of the year i will be pulling the motor for a rebuild.....starting to smoke.....too much gas washing the walls with those 1050s......i just want to do a band-aide fix to get her back running for now

 

[moparchris]

Chris,

I have a hydraulic roller cam in my hemi with a bronze distributor gear and a bronze tipped fuel pump rod. How often should I look at those for wear and is the wear obvious? I have seen some pictures of distributor gears in the past that were pretty subtle in terms of wear. I have been worried about this a little but I have put so few miles on the engine that I haven't really looked at anything yet. This engine does not turn high rpm, it is no longer making power at 5400 rpm.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but your post made me wonder.

I like to look at them when I am changing my oil, which is usually once or twice a year. What a pain in the a$$. There is no need to worry about that ever again with the modern gears. The fuel pump pushrod is a different story. Your probably the only guy in the US who uses a mechanical pump on a billet roller. :acme:

chris.....i see what you are saying......at the end of the year i will be pulling the motor for a rebuild.....starting to smoke.....too much gas washing the walls with those 1050s......i just want to do a band-aide fix to get her back running for now

I would really consider a freshen up right now. When a lifter, or any part, goes bad it sends fragments throughout the motor. This tears up bearing in a few seconds. 6 years ago I had a flat tappet go bad and I shaved about .100" off the lifter in about 10 minutes time. I was so disgusted with the situation, I mothballed the car for 6 years. A few months ago I tore the engine down and was just going to band aid the cam and clean up the engine. Well, the crank had some serious scoring and the bearings were so badly scored that I doubt it would have made it another 100 miles without getting a rod knock. Mark my words, YOU DO NOT WANT TO DESTROY THAT EXPENSIVE HEMI TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS. The end result will be a broken car this summer anyways. Please give this some serious consideration buddy. I'd feel really bad if you did a temporary fix only to window your Hemi block.

 

[george68hemirr]

Chris,

I have a hydraulic roller cam in my hemi with a bronze distributor gear and a bronze tipped fuel pump rod. How often should I look at those for wear and is the wear obvious? I have seen some pictures of distributor gears in the past that were pretty subtle in terms of wear. I have been worried about this a little but I have put so few miles on the engine that I haven't really looked at anything yet. This engine does not turn high rpm, it is no longer making power at 5400 rpm.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but your post made me wonder.

I like to look at them when I am changing my oil, which is usually once or twice a year. What a pain in the a$$. There is no need to worry about that ever again with the modern gears. The fuel pump pushrod is a different story. Your probably the only guy in the US who uses a mechanical pump on a billet roller. :acme:

chris.....i see what you are saying......at the end of the year i will be pulling the motor for a rebuild.....starting to smoke.....too much gas washing the walls with those 1050s......i just want to do a band-aide fix to get her back running for now

I would really consider a freshen up right now. When a lifter, or any part, goes bad it sends fragments throughout the motor. This tears up bearing in a few seconds. 6 years ago I had a flat tappet go bad and I shaved about .100" off the lifter in about 10 minutes time. I was so disgusted with the situation, I mothballed the car for 6 years. A few months ago I tore the engine down and was just going to band aid the cam and clean up the engine. Well, the crank had some serious scoring and the bearings were so badly scored that I doubt it would have made it another 100 miles without getting a rod knock. Mark my words, YOU DO NOT WANT TO DESTROY THAT EXPENSIVE HEMI TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS. The end result will be a broken car this summer anyways. Please give this some serious consideration buddy. I'd feel really bad if you did a temporary fix only to window your Hemi block.

WELL......YOU HAVE ME THINKING AND I CAME TO THE CONCLUSION ......CHRIS....THANKS.....YOU ARE 100 PERCENT CORRECT...
HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT THIS ALL LAST NIGHT AND TODAY.......going to take a number at my engine builders since hes backed up building other motors and go through everything and freshin her all up......going with a solid roller and dump the tunnel ram

I CALLED TIM BANNING FROM FOR HEMIS ONLY AND TOLD HIM THE STORY ABOUT THE LIFTERS.......HE BUILT QUITE A FEW HEMIS WITH THESE LIFTERS.AND SAID.....WOW...THEY LASTED A LONG TIME....OTHER GUYS ONLY GOT A FEW WEEKS OUT OF THERES BEFORE THEY FAILED......HE CALLED SCHUBECK AND NO ONE ANSWERED THE PHONE OR EVEN CALLED BACK.
HE ALSO SAID.....GEORGE....DONT BUY THOSE LIFTERS.........SO I HAVE SOME RESEARCHING TO DO

 

[george68hemirr]

oh yeah......i forgot one thing......I WANNA PUKE uke: .......THIS MAKE ME REALLY SICK :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

 

[moparstuart]

heard nothing but great stuff about for hemis only , well other then the fact they are canadian LOL

 

[V269]

heard nothing but great stuff about for hemis only , well other then the fact they are canadian LOL

:toetap: :toetap: :toetap: :chuck: :chuck:

 

[V269]

oh yeah......i forgot one thing......I WANNA PUKE uke: .......THIS MAKE ME REALLY SICK :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

Don't blame you a bit on that one George. What a time for it to go for a shit. I like the thought that you are going to freshen it up now though. :yesnod: Good talk Chris.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

Shit George, that sucks. Smart decision on the refresh though. If you're dumping the tunnel ram, which way you going?

 

[george68hemirr]

Shit George, that sucks. Smart decision on the refresh though. If you're dumping the tunnel ram, which way you going?

Hemi"s going in the shop in july......its a toss up between a Ray Barton 4500 Hemi Single Plane Single Carb Manifold

http://raybarton.com/parts/index.php/pa ... ifold.html

..... with a pro-systems.....

http://www.prosystemsracing.com/svseries.html

.......or a blower.....i am leaning towards the first one......dont want to wash the cylinder walls with too much gas

 

[dutchrunner]

What about a 6bbl injection George?
Just speak to Bruce at F&B Performance.

It's realy an "easy" installation.
Have never had an engine start and run that GR8.

There 660cfm each so 1980cfm.
Should give the elephant enough pinuts? :groucho:

 

[moparchris]

Even though its a pain in the rear at this time, you will be much happier in the end. No tunnel ram??!! Blower it is then.

 

[george68hemirr]

Even though its a pain in the rear at this time, you will be much happier in the end. No tunnel ram??!! Blower it is then.

yes i should be happier chris....thanks buddy......blower is cool but i dont think so

 

[george68hemirr]

What about a 6bbl injection George?
Just speak to Bruce at F&B Performance.

It's realy an "easy" installation.
Have never had an engine start and run that GR8.

There 660cfm each so 1980cfm.
Should give the elephant enough pinuts? :groucho:

that is soooo cool but not going to happen.....1050s each so 2100 cfms was lots of gas......when she shits and gets.....you can see all that gas in the exhaust and i really think it washes your cylinder walls down badly

 

[dutchrunner]

That's the nice thing about injection.
I can start the hemi cold and stand behind mine without tears in my eyes from the unburned fuel vapors.
Also the idle is always perfect end you can start the engine without entering the car and pumping it .

And the system is good upto 1200hp.