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Performance hood paint

meepbeep69

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:beep:

I am moving along nicely with a project car I have had for some time. I was all set to give the ok to put the organasol paint treatment to the hood of the car.

But.....I get the question of the century posed to me by a Mopar buddy of mine.

He says, "why you want to do that? You won't be able to wax it. You won't even be able to get close to it with wax or it will look terrible."

Any suggestions with pictures would be appreciated. The car looks original but is not pedigreed. So I want something close to original but also something that will not cause me fits if it I get close with the wax.
 

BBillyC

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I'll tag along with this one. As you can see I too need the stripes and want to make sure I use the correct paint. On my previous runner I never waxed the stripes so I am very interested in the responses. :popcorn:
 

george68hemirr

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whatever turns you on.....correct...flat black...not for me went with high gloss black and i can wax it too
 

Jim S.

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I just went through this last summer. Look at the project section on this site under organosol. I used the correct Organosol (ddl 9355) from Frank Badalson (Roger Gibson's partner) , with the correct slow lacquer thinner (dtl 105). Read everything I could about proper application. Spraying numerous test panels, it did not look right. Had a body shop owner friend (Mopar guy) try also. We decided to use dcc 9355 which is single stage Urethane. Looks good and I have got wax on it with no problem. Just used a little distilled water and vinegar mixed 50/50 and it came off leaving no shine behind. The one thing I would change in the formula is to only add 1/4 oz. of texture vs 1/2 oz to a pint of paint. Here is the formula I used.
4 parts dcc9355
3 parts dt reducer
1 part dcx61 hardener
1 part dx685 flattening agent
1/2 oz. (for a pint) of dx1999 texture additive.

This formula uses a little extra reducer so it flows out better but, requires more flash time.
Like I said, 1/4 oz of texture would be better.
Two coats is all it took with a black sealer under it. You could play with the formula spraying a test panel until you like it. Also if you google "dcc9355", you will get a lot of good (Mopar) links addressing Organosol and dcc9355.
 

george68hemirr

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Hoosier Bird said:
Shiney stripes are for sissys............. :lmao:


WRONG...THEY ARE FOR REAL MEN WITH NO POWER STEERING AND NO POWER BRAKES.....HERE WE GO AGAIN :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
 

mcmopar

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The stripes on my car were applied by a previous owner. They are a flat black with texturing but I'm not sure if it is "correct" or not. As for waxing the stripes - no, it is not recommended so what I do is apply a foam vinyl protectant called "Something Better". It really would not matter what brand it is, as long as it is a foam. I apply it with a damp sponge, being careful not to get any on the colored paint on the center of the hood and fenders (simply because it appears "streaky"). If I do get some on the paint it is an easy cleanup but I prefer not to spend time on cleaning it off the GREEN paint! when it comes time to clean the stripes I use a vinyl top cleaner and it strips the protectant off the stripes without damaging the finish. The protectant gives the stripes a satin look and is quite nice looking.
When I owned the car the 1st time, back in the '80's, I had the stripes added when it went in for a paint job back in '85. At that time I told the painter I wanted the stripes in a sating black instead of a flat black. The stripes came out looking really nice.
 

moparstuart

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george68hemirr said:
Hoosier Bird said:
Shiney stripes are for sissys............. :lmao:


WRONG...THEY ARE FOR REAL MEN WITH NO POWER STEERING AND NO POWER BRAKES.....HERE WE GO AGAIN :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
i agree totally my car has nice shiney stripes and maual brakes and power steering by arm strong . :jester:
 

meepbeep69

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Thanks guys.....

What about satin with a clear flattening out the clear? Shop that is doing the work is a DuPont shop. The area will not allow anything but enamel to be shot.

Drum brakes and no power steering!
 

george68hemirr

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meepbeep69 said:
Thanks guys.....

What about satin with a clear flattening out the clear? Shop that is doing the work is a DuPont shop. The area will not allow anything but enamel to be shot.

Drum brakes and no power steering!

i love this guy.....A REAL MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...WHOA :toetap: :toetap: :toetap: :acme: :acme: :acme:
 

69hemibeep

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george68hemirr said:
69hemibeep said:
I thought performance hoods were blue :pot:


ONLY FOR BIG JOHN......THE REST OF YOU BLUEBOYS......FORGETABOUTIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bigs is black, but I'm not going to get on his bad side :D
 

Jim S.

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meepbeep69 said:
Thanks for the vote of confidence!!

Any thoughts on the satin with a flattened clearcoat?
Flat clearcoat will get shiny spots in it just like Organosol just from wear and wiping it down. I know some hot rodders use it and get it back to dull with comet cleaner. Urethene is much tougher than Enamel. If the shop sprays enamel, should be able to spray urethene, the VOC is lower. Ask you body guy about the DCC I mentioned before. My hood strips are very tough paint. I can wipe the h*ll out of them and they will not shine. I would have to sand and buff them to get them to shine but, then I would get put on the "sissy" side of the classroom. :lol:

http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/200 ... ture8.html
 

george68hemirr

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69hemibeep said:
george68hemirr said:
69hemibeep said:
I thought performance hoods were blue :pot:


ONLY FOR BIG JOHN......THE REST OF YOU BLUEBOYS......FORGETABOUTIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bigs is black, but I'm not going to get on his bad side :D

the last time i saw bigs car it had a blacked out hood on a BLUE roadrunner....right??
 
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